The cases of my speakers were in a very deplorable state. One was completely broken, and a piece of wallpaper was pasted on the other, apparently for beauty ... I stock up on glue and patience, straighten my arms and go ahead ...
I visited the nearest hardware store and bought three large tubes of moment glue, a couple of medium-sized PVA, wood sealant, putty, paint, varnish, wooden dowels and other trifles.
First of all, I took up the broken body, glued the torn off side wall
I reinforced each rib with furniture dowels, hammering them at an angle of 45 degrees, after lubricating with PVA glue
I also glued the peeled chipboard from below and left everything to dry, pressing it with a clamp
While the glue was setting, I took the muzzle of the column. Damn it! From moisture, the chipboard of the front part swelled in places, it’s good that only from the inside
The photo shows that the right corner is thicker than the left, I correct it with a planer and put it aside. The glue grabbed, and the dowels did their job, they hold it tight. I take the sealant and coat all the corners
This is the aquarium
Again I grab the front panel, coat it with glue and the body, wait 5 minutes (everything according to the instructions on the glue) and paste the muzzle in its rightful place. I put a load on top - the live weight of my friend
While he was standing, I drilled the body and hammered the dowels, now at an angle of 90 degrees to the side wall
I scored 3 dowels on the wide sides, 2 on the narrow ones. I turn the column on the muzzle and leave it to dry.
I take the second one, tear off the paper, as well as on the first column, I strengthen all the edges with furniture dowels
I thought for a long time what to do with a decorative gap between the body and the muzzle
Well, she does not bring beauty, well, not a bit. Let's get rid of it, but how? If you just putty, then over time the gap will definitely appear again, the putty will simply fall out. I take a drill and drill shallow 1-2 cm holes, every 4-5 cm
I hammer halves of dowels with glue into these holes
Now I spill the entire gap with PVA glue and ram the sawdust into it, obtained as a result of drilling holes. Then again I spill the glue and leave to dry. The result was a monolithic wood-shaving structure.
Since it is the cheapest, and I considered it bad manners to spend more than $ 30 on acoustics, since I am not a music lover, I mainly looked for them on Internet flea markets. Then I came across, for a pittance, partially working acoustics from d1-012 stereo, bass and one high-frequency heads did not work. The problem in the low-frequency link was in the lead wires (between the terminal and the diffuser), they simply frayed, and after replacing the wires, they worked fine. The problem with the tweeter was the oxidation of the wire on the diffuser, it simply rotted in one place. I soldered it with a jumper of a suitable section, but I replaced the head, just in case. When I dismantled the speakers several times, I really liked the performance of the cabinet, and especially the speaker grilles, and when I came across dead speakers, I, without hesitation, bought them for experiments.
These columns had one burnt and bloated casing. Unfortunately I didn't take a photo initial state buildings. At first, I just wanted to throw away the cases and make new ones, but I considered it expensive to order from a carpenter, and I myself did not have the necessary tools for manufacturing, so I decided to try to repair the old ones.
For this job I needed:
- belt sander
- putty knife
- a hammer
- penzel
- stationery knife and putty grater
- jar of wood putty
- wood glue
- jar of primer
- sander belt size 60
- grater net, size 80
- self-adhesive film 100x205 cm.
To begin with, I dismantled the speakers - removed the lining, grilles, took out the speakers, removed the front and rear walls. Filters, which are assembled directly on the back wall, did not remove. Here is a photo of the back wall before the repair:
After, with a grinder, I removed all the swelling of the chipboard. This is what the back wall looked like after sanding:
After blowing off the dust from the parts, and applied putty:
After a few hours, I sanded the cases with a putty grater:
(The photo shows a case with a screwed front wall, the thing is that one case, already pasted over, got caught in the rain and swelled in one place. Then I decided not to remove the wall, but to repair it, then I took a photo.)
If necessary, the puttying process must be repeated. After screwing the front walls, and puttied the places of the screws. Grater removed excess putty. After primed the hull. I used nitro varnish, as it dries quickly, but you can use an ordinary primer.
I cut the self-adhesive into pieces: two 155x40 cm and two 48x28 cm. I started gluing from the middle of the bottom wall, the film should protrude three cm from the back, the rest from the front (5-6 cm). I took a long piece, peeled off the protective layer by 15-20 cm, attached it to the wall, aligned it behind the back side, and gradually peeling off the protective layer, stretching it, glued the case around in a circle. When pasting, be sure to rub the film at all corners with a soft cloth. Then, on the back side, on the protruding film, I made cuts in the corners to the body, and first bent one side (any), rubbing it with a rag, cut it off at the corners at an angle of 45˚, and near the inner side of the wall, and bent the excess into the body . I did the same with all sides. Then put the body on back, did the same with the front. The excess film that went on the front wall was carefully cut off with a knife. After I glued a short piece on the front wall, adjusting the corners with a spatula, cut off the excess, rubbed it with a rag, and cut it out along the holes. After pasting, the cases look like this:
Although this factory-made speaker does not have legs, I decided to make them, for this I used a timing belt:
After that, I replaced the ONC connector on the back wall with speakon:
GEDSC DIGITAL CAMERA
I painted the speaker baskets black and assembled the speakers. Since, at that time, I had several pairs, and they all look terrible, I decided to sacrifice one pair and painted the diffusers white. As far as I understand, the weighting of the woofer cone will only benefit the dynamics, although I can always change them to the original ones. After assembly, the columns look like ( next to, for comparison, the original ones):
(A cap was crushed on the upper speaker, on the woofer, but then it fell into place on its own) These speakers look great anyway, you can also use them with native grilles.
It was necessary to equip a computer workplace. In order to save money, I decided to restore and repair the old Genius computer speakers. The speakers are strong, in a solid case and with a decent acoustic transducer, but the electronics caused criticism. Using affordable and cheap electronic modules purchased in online stores, I managed to make loud speakers with clear sound with my own hands. Computer speakers in terms of their parameters turned out to be cheaper than similar acoustics bought in a store. Detailed step-by-step instruction repair with a diagram, photo and video.
Do-it-yourself Genius computer speaker repair
Computer speakers "Genius SP-16" were taken for restoration and repair. Speakers began their life since the days of 14″ computer cathode ray monitors. The cases are made of durable plastic with sufficient internal volume. Inside the speakers are speakers with high efficiency and good playback characteristics. But there are complaints about electronics, which were partially eliminated during operation (replacement of electrolytic capacitors). Unfortunately, the sound reproduction of the speakers was not of high quality, especially at high volume, non-linear distortions were clearly visible and annoying.
The following restoration scheme was applied for the repair:
- Replace the existing low frequency amplifier with a class D amplifier.
- Retain the basic speaker controls.
- Use an existing transformer to power the speakers.
For repair, a ready-made switching power supply regulator for 5 Volts 2 Amperes and a digital ULF stereo board (3 watts per channel) were used. This type ULF was deliberately chosen because of its cheapness (~ 15 rubles) and unpretentiousness. Stereo amplifier bought on Aliexpress at this link http://ali.pub/1e25ap . And an adjustable voltage regulator at this link http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/i6eamub . Buy 10 amplifiers at once, believe me it will come in handy, at this price it's for nothing!
To work, you will need a long Phillips screwdriver, a soldering iron with soldering accessories and pieces of tinned and insulated copper conductors. The presence of a suction for solder will facilitate the work of dismantling. A tester is required to control soldering and settings.
Genius speakers - schematic
The photo shows the diagram of the column "Genius SP-16". In the diagram, crosses indicate conductors with details. All parts to the right of the cross must be soldered and removed. The numbers show the connection points of the ULF board and power supply.
The order of repair column "Genius SP-16"
- Self-tapping screws fastening the halves of the cover of the active column are unscrewed
- The board is removed from the open case and the power and speaker connection conductors are soldered.
- The board is removed from the case and radio components are removed from it according to the diagram.
- On the back side of the board, a soldering iron is installed on the legs of the conductors according to the scheme of the power stabilizer. Before installing the ULF on the board, you must supply power to the board and check output voltage on the stabilizer +5 volts.
- Further, the ULF board is installed on the board in the same way on tinned conductors. The signal to the remote speaker jack and speaker speakers is supplied by insulated conductors. See photo.
- Before the final assembly, we check the operation of the ULF and the volume and tone controls.
- We assemble the column body. See video for sound quality.
Case disassembly
Speaker panel removed
Soldered conductors
Details removed
