Any car owner is pleased to open his own and see how beautiful, clean it is, and most importantly, there are no scattered wires from sound components everywhere. Therefore, you need to install a car amplifier in the trunk of a VAZ 2114.

First, the amplifier must meet certain requirements. He must allow fast access to the controls and terminals, as well as to ensure that there is minimal space in the room for cooling the amplifier. Also, the amplifier and wires should not be noticeable and the power wire should be short.

To make a frame for an amplifier, you will need:

• epoxy,
• waterproof plywood,
• screws and nails,
• polyester putty with fiberglass,
• primer and black paint,
• stretchy carpet and glue,
• jigsaw,
• grit circles 30 and 80,
• standard set tools.

How to make a frame for the trunk of a VAZ 2114?

We start by cutting out a shape from plywood that resembles the side of the trunk floor covering. It is important that it freely closes the niche attached to the floor with a loop, and freely rises at a right angle. An amplifier is attached to the plywood figure.

It is desirable that the plywood repeats the contours of the recesses in shape. The design in the form of the letter "T" turns out well, but it is also desirable to make cutouts for the amplifier terminals in the bottom of the stand. In the middle layers of the typesetting block, the central part is removed to leave room for the wires.

Also, a similar distance must be left at the base of the shelf. The wires are laid through the "tunnel". All wooden elements must be lubricated with epoxy. In addition, the surface is treated with sandpaper and puttied. The interior is painted black. The shelf attached to the floor of the trunk must fold down.

After the last fitting, you can glue it. Now we attach a car amplifier to the structure and connect the wires. The wires are not visible, and the design looks very nice. Now there is nothing superfluous in the trunk and the amplifier is well fixed.

I dreamed about this for a long time. Just imagine: I open the trunk, and there - cleanliness, beauty, order, mass free space and, most importantly, not a single dangling wire. Ideally, no wires are visible at all! In the previous car, I did not succeed in realizing my dream. The maximum that was enough for me was to screw the amplifier on a plywood stand to the back of the rear seat. However, in the current car, I decided to radically correct the situation. But how?

Needless to say, I have seen enough of various installations. However, somehow I couldn’t project anything from what I saw onto my trunk, I didn’t like anything ... We needed an original idea, and the design would have to meet certain requirements:

The power cord of the machine must be as short as possible;

The amplifier and wires should not be visible (hidden installation option);

Instant access to adjustments and terminals, no problems with switching wires;

The design should take up a minimum of space in the trunk and ensure normal cooling of the amplifier;

With all this, the solution should be simple and elegant.

The scheme with mounting the amplifier under the front seat is not at all interesting to me. The back of the rear seat also immediately disappeared: it was already, they passed - when the back is reclined, the device will interfere, and it’s too far to stretch to the adjustment block. Therefore, to fulfill the first and third requirements, I decided to install the structure on the left side of the trunk; I have a power wire from the battery laid along the left side of the body, almost in a straight line, so the first condition was met. The only suitable place was the space near the arch of the left rear wheel, in which I decided to place a reclining structure in the form of an inverted "T" with the amplifier fixed "face to the wall".

Tools and materials

From the materials I needed:

Trimmings of ten-millimeter birch moisture-resistant furniture plywood with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bno more than 0.5 square meters. m.;

Half a bottle of Dzerzhinsky epoxy;

Gram 30 polyester putty "Body" with fiberglass;

Pieces 10 black self-tapping screws 70 mm long, some galvanized nails 35x2;

Piece of furniture hinge not more than 50 cm long:

Primer and black paint "Maston" in an aerosol;

A cut of a stretching carpet 0.5 * 2m, it looks like either "A21 Charcoal" or "A23 Heater Charcoal". To it is a special polyurethane adhesive in an aerosol package "Bondo" Spray Adhesive.

A set of power tools has already become standard - a Skill electric jigsaw, a Sparky electric drill with a grinding nozzle, grit wheels 30 and 80. Plus the same standard set of hand tools.

frame

I cut out the base of the structure from plywood in a shape very similar to the side "petal" of the trunk floor covering, which covers deep niches near the wheel arches. He adjusted the form in such a way that, being attached to the floor with a long loop, it freely covered the niche, and also rose unhindered by 90 degrees.

Having estimated the installation depth of the device, I cut out a figure from double plywood, to which the amplifier should be attached. The shape of the stand had to be adjusted so that it followed the contours of the recess as closely as possible. As a result, the stand with its edges tightly "seats" into the carpet of the wheel arch without the formation of cracks. The second, inner layer of plywood has a cutout in the center in the form of an arch - when gluing the layers, a recess is formed under the amplifier, in which I planned to bring interconnect cables.

The "T" design was successful, but something else was needed to securely connect its parts. Increased with pieces of plywood lower part stands, making cutouts for the amplifier terminals in it. Moreover, in the two middle layers of the type-setting block, he removed the central part, leaving only the edges - thus a "tunnel" was formed for the wires. The same tunnel had to be made at the base of the shelf so that all communications could be quietly brought to the amplifier under the raised boot floor and wheel arch carpeting.

As in the case of the subwoofer, I cut out all the plywood parts with a jigsaw, immediately fastened them with nails and adjusted them with an electric drill with a grinding wheel. Then I glued all the wooden parts together with epoxy, grabbing the most critical places with self-tapping screws. I smeared the loop with "liquid nails" and screwed it to the base with self-tapping screws.

Finishing

The surfaces were lightly sanded and puttied, covered with a primer (rather for the company with a subwoofer). Since basically the entire surface was planned for pasting with Carpet, I thoroughly painted only the recess for the interblocks with black paint, and covered everything else in one layer just in case.

Once again I tried on the painted shelf in place in the trunk and then almost completely pasted it over with Carpet, with the exception of the reverse side of the base and the area under the amplifier. I attached an amplifier to the finished structure, screwed the loop to the trunk floor with self-tapping screws and connected the wires. It turned out just great!

There were concerns - how to fix the shelf in the closed state, would it spontaneously open on steep turns? But ahead of time he did not complicate his task, and, as it turned out later, correctly. Firstly, the amplifier is shifted in the right direction relative to the axis of rotation (tilting), due to this, with its weight, it seems to “close” the door. Secondly, the stand pasted over with Carpet sits quite tightly in the trunk mat. Thus, for a couple of weeks of trips, the "door" has never been opened without authorization ... In extreme cases, a pair of Velcro strips on the ends will give a 100% guarantee of the immobility of the structure.

The trunk floor mat had to be trimmed a little, but without it - nothing. And at this stage, intervention in inner space trunk I finished.

conclusions

I am very pleased with the resulting design, especially the ratio of labor costs to the effect achieved. Indeed, the amplifier lying in the trunk (screwed to the back) created strong discomfort, which even managed to penetrate into the passenger compartment :-) The shelf meets all the above requirements, including the cooling of the amplifier. The upholstery carpet coincides so much with the "native" that in the twilight of the trunk, at first glance, nothing superfluous is noticeable at all. There remains only the problem of normal trunk lighting, which plays an important role in the installation...

I cut out the shelf instantly, compared to the labor costs for a new subwoofer, this is just nonsense, just a couple of strokes with a jigsaw. Carpet covering was generally successful, however, I had to stick a couple of training pieces. There are no problems with sound (noise, interference, background), which I was also a little afraid of. But I will change and re-lay almost all the wires, although it will be closer to the heat, as expected ...

Subwoofer installation 2114

It is necessary to install a subwoofer in a VAZ 2114 car in order for the bottoms to be reproduced well. You should know that such a speaker has a much larger radiator than standard speakers, and is capable of reproducing sound in the region of 10-150 Hz.

What is a sub for and what types of this speaker are known

Whatever the subwoofer, its role is predetermined - it only complements the existing speakers and is not needed in any way for full bass reproduction. This means that without a subwoofer, some basses will play normally. For example, this applies to low frequencies of 80-200 Hz.

Note. The best installation option speaker system with a subwoofer implies the following scenario: the presence of five speakers, two in front and two in the back. There is only one subwoofer in such a scheme. And one more thing: the presence of tweeters or special tweeters with a rather small cone size is considered an advantage in such a connection.

There are two main types of subs: boxed and unboxed.

Let's start with body models:

• They are supplied in a box, the size (displacement) of which may be different;
• In turn, such subs can be either active or passive (see). In the first, a built-in power amplifier was initially installed along with a frequency splitter or crossover, as it is also called. Subwoofer passiv has neither an amplifier nor a crossover, but costs several times less than the first;
• The second type of subs comes without a case. Such models crash into the rear shelf or car seat.

For hatchbacks, such as the VAZ 2114, it is recommended to install an active subwoofer (see), since the shelf above the trunk will not prevent bass from entering the body. The same applies to station wagons, but for sedans, an open speaker embedded in the rear seat is more suitable.

Installation

The process of installing a subwoofer into the fourteenth Vaz model does not begin with anything, but with a Shvi (unless, of course, soundproofing has already been carried out (see)).

Unfortunately, the level of SHVI of domestic cars, even of a new cut, is not of sufficient quality. And without proper preparation, installing a speaker is tantamount to throwing money away.

Vibroplast or other modern materials will be ideal for this operation. If you read the relevant step by step instructions to conduct the SHVI, the event will be able to be held on its own.

• Lay specifically under the subwoofer. You need to know that the RCA stretches to the left of the car interior, and the power cables to the right.

Note. The power cable is pulled from battery through the hood. In order not to make extra holes in the partition, it is recommended to find a rubber plug, remove it and pass the cable through the finished hole.

The following scenario for installing a subwoofer in the fourteenth VAZ model is suitable if the trunk of the car will be used for standard purposes for transporting goods. Thus, there will no longer be room for mounting a subwoofer and an amplifier.

• Buy an active subwoofer Mystery or some other with a flat shape. A super-compact seatpost speaker will also work for this purpose;
• Prepare a set of necessary wiring, including power and audio cables;
• The wire responsible for the power is connected to the battery (you must use a fuse);
• The cable is brought into the passenger compartment through a ready-made hole made for the rear window washer hose. Further, already in the cabin, you will need to remove the plastic thresholds in order to “follow in the footsteps” of the hose;
• The same should be done with audio wires;
• The button responsible for adjusting the bass can be placed under the dashboard.

DIY

Now consider the option of how to install a subwoofer in a VAZ 2114 with a homemade box. It is recommended to buy a woofer brand Kransh ds-10 or similar. Such a speaker looks like a normal one, and does not stand out in any way.

As for the box, it can be built from plywood or wood. The place for the amplifier is also selected initially.

Now about the location. In principle, there is not so much free space. Again, we mean the trunk of a hatchback, where it is recommended to install a future bass source.

Attention! You have to be very careful with the sizes. Redoing everything anew due to your own carelessness is the last thing.

So, the future box must meet the dimensions of the space where it will be placed. However, it should not take up more space than required. For example, it should not be higher than the rear shelf.

Let's get down to business:

• We remove the dimensions and all other characteristics of the installation site;
• We buy material and open it to prepare the box.

Note. We must be very attentive to the preparation of the box, realizing that the thickness of the material is of great importance, because it is the basis.

• We make the back wall of the woofer, the box is shaped like a trapezoid;
• Fixing the sides and elements of the future product is carried out using "liquid nails".

Advice. To give the whole structure sufficient reliability, for reinsurance, the layout is fixed with additional bars. Screwing in self-tapping screws will also help, although there may be problems with preparing holes. But a handy drill in dexterous hands or a screwdriver should not give up.

• The most difficult part of the whole operation is the manufacture of the 6th final wall. The difficulty lies in the fact that this wall can "sag" deep into the original box. To prevent this from happening, stiffeners are used.

The result will immediately please if all 6 walls are successfully pulled together. It should be remembered that it is wrong to hope that the last wall can simply be adjusted somehow.

At the final stage of the operation in the wall, do not forget to cut gaps for the connectors to which the speaker will subsequently be connected. This is not done on the finished structure, since the procedure is fraught with bad consequences.

For tight fastening of the subwoofer enclosure to the partition, you need to use an additional plywood pad.

Here's how to install the plywood pad:

• First of all, you need to apply a sealant;
• During the installation of the overlay, attention should be paid to the fact that its thickness may become too large due to the use of several layers;

Now about the most important thing - ensuring tightness:

• We should not forget that the quality sound of the future subwoofer depends on the tightness. This is explained by a physical phenomenon;
• No self-made box will be in any way airtight until mandatory measures are taken;
• It is recommended to cover the edges of the subwoofer box with special mastic. Then, after drying, you will need to fill the "container" with water. At the same time, water should not flow anywhere (except for the holes made).

As for the upholstery:

• It is recommended to make it from Carpet. This is pretty common stuff;
• If you could not find a carpet, you can use another material - carpet.

You can learn more about how to install a subwoofer in a VAZ 2114 car, and which models are best suited for this, from other site publications. Useful information are also able to provide video and photo materials, diagrams, instructions and tables with a technical description.

Date: 2016-02-16

The publication was prepared by a visitor to the rather popular VAZ 2114 club.

This is the dream of a huge number of users. After all, it is even interesting to imagine: there is a huge amount of space in the luggage compartment, there are no additional wires that are necessary for sound elements. As with tuned vehicles, you only see the parts you really need.

The author of this publication has previously read huge amount options for installing amps in this car. But to implement such ideas in their own car did not work. In order to achieve the required, it is worth using more original ideas. In this case, the selected option must meet certain requirements:

§ Both the wiring and the amp had to be hidden. In other words, implement hidden installation.

§ All terminals, as well as adjustments, must be permanently and easily accessible. In this case, there should not be problems with the installation of wires.

§ In the luggage compartment, the device should occupy a minimum of space. In this case, the amp must also be constantly cooled.

§ The length of the power wire should be short.

§ Implementation this option installation should be simple.

The author did not want to place the amp directly under the front seat. The rear seats were also not suitable for implementation, since it was problematic to open the back. In addition, the control unit was located at a significant distance. That is why they decided to take the left side of the luggage compartment under the amp. At the same time, the author decided to use a peculiar design, they look like the letter T in an inverted form. In order to be able to implement this technology, it was necessary to prepare special furniture plywood, a kind of putty, epoxy resin, as well as a primer, carpet, etc.

In order to implement this technology, you will need to use an electric tool such as a jigsaw, as well as a drill. In addition, an additional tool may be required so that everything can be implemented much faster.

Frame preparation

Using plywood, you need to prepare the base. At the same time, in shape it must correspond to the side of the luggage compartment. At the same time, the preparation was implemented in such a way that it was easy to create and cover a niche, as well as open it without difficulties.

It was plywood that was used in order to be able to create a figure to which the amp will be attached. At the same time, the required recesses were also prepared on this workpiece. At the same time, it was very important to make sure that there were no holes around the perimeter.

This design was fairly easy to implement. But in order to get a really high-quality connection, some more elements were needed. Using plywood, prepared certain part bottom stand, in which holes were created for the location of the terminals. At the same time, a tunnel was also prepared, in which wires were later placed. By the way, a tunnel was also attached to the main shelf, in which the wire will pass. It was decided to locate this tunnel under the raised floor, which is concentrated in the luggage compartment.

The picture clearly shows exactly how the amp is located.

Those wires that are brought to the amp are placed in the tunnel. Plywood was used for preparation, as well as an electric jigsaw. In order to adjust the dimensions, an electric drill was used, supplemented with a grinding nozzle. Without fail, wood elements are treated with epoxy resin. In those places that are subject to maximum load, additional self-tapping screws are located. With the help of the same fastening components, the loop is attached to the base.

External finishing works

Without fail, from the outside, all elements are processed with sandpaper. In addition, they are covered with putty. Since all external components will be covered with carpet in the future, it was decided to cover them with black paint on the inside.

As soon as the shelf has passed the last fitting, it is also fitted with a carpet. Once the design has been prepared, an amp is attached to it. After the wiring is carried out.

The author was worried about how exactly the regiment would behave when entering sharp turns. After all, in the raised position, it is not fixed in any way. But all these fears can be considered in vain. After all, it was the amp that loaded the shelf, preventing it from opening. In addition, the entire structure being prepared is made perfectly, so the shelf does not move. During an experimental check, it was found that an arbitrary opening was excluded. For the most extreme case, it is worth using several Velcro, focusing them on the ends.

So it turned out to realize the idea, in which the amp was not visible, as well as wires. It is even hard to believe that this is easy to implement.

At the same time, the carpet, concentrated in the luggage compartment, had to be cut a little. And after that, no additional actions need to be implemented.

Results

He was completely satisfied with the work that the author of the publication implemented. After all, it didn’t take much effort to achieve the result. After all, such an action made it possible to form the most comfortable installation of the amp. But you can implement lighting on your own.

Installing the amplifier under the seat
I did not want to install an amplifier in the trunk like in an old car.

There are some reasons for this:
1. The length of the wires when installed under the seat is minimal.
2. All settings are accessible from the driver's seat.
3. I just didn't want to repeat myself. :-)
Although undoubtedly the amplifier in the trunk looks beautiful.
So, after putting the amplifier under the seat, I made sure that it fits there.
Then, having removed the seat, I began to figure out how to firmly fix it on it.

Invented!!!
I spit out two plywood slats and attached them with self-tapping screws to the front edge and the middle crossbar of the chair.

Then, having re-drilled the holes for mounting on the amplifier, in order to attach not over the edge of the cover,
attached it to the seat.

To firmly fix the power wires and prevent them from fidgeting in the connectors, I drank another plywood bar,
screwed to the seat frame and pressed the wires with a strip of plastic.
Cheap and cheerful :-)

The wires themselves were brought out by cutting holes in the floor paneling under the seat.
Those. no wires are visible in the working position.

That's how it is. And there is nothing to worry about.
Photo in working position.
There is a "technological" gap of 5 mm between the amplifier and the air duct.


The rear photo was taken from the level of the window handle. In the normal position of the body,
the amplifier setting is not noticeable at all.

Power Wiring The choice of cross-section of power wires is made according to the table.

But many of those who do not pull a minus from the battery terminal connect a thick wire to the body
and they don’t pay attention to such snot from - the terminals to the body, through which the whole thing will be fed.

For normal power supply of the entire system, it is necessary to duplicate this wiring with a good power cable.

It is very important to pull them strongly, both with each other and with the body and the terminal.