Sometimes there is a need to get high voltage from improvised materials. Horizontal scanning of domestic TVs is a ready-made high-voltage generator, we will only slightly alter the generator.
From the horizontal scanning unit, you need to unsolder the voltage multiplier and the horizontal transformer. For our purpose, the UN9-27 multiplier was used.

Line transformer will suit literally anyone.


The line transformer is made with a huge margin, only 15-20% of the power is used in TVs.
The lineman has a high-voltage winding, one end of which can be seen directly on the coil, the other end of the high-voltage winding is on the stand, along with the main contacts at the bottom of the coil (pin 13). Finding high voltage leads is very easy if you look at the line transformer circuit.

The multiplier used has several outputs, the connection diagram is shown below.


Voltage multiplier circuit

After connecting the multiplier to the high-voltage winding of the horizontal transformer, you need to think about the design of the generator that will power the entire circuit. With the generator was not wiser, I decided to take it ready. An LDS control circuit with a power of 40 watts was used, in other words, just an LDS ballast.


Chinese-made ballast, can be found in any store, the price is no more than $ 2-2.5. Such a ballast is convenient because it operates at high frequencies (17-5 kHz, depending on the type and manufacturer). The only downside is that output voltage has an increased rating, so we cannot directly connect such a ballast to a horizontal transformer. For connection, a capacitor with a voltage of 1000-5000 volts is used, the capacity is from 1000 to 6800 pF. The ballast can be replaced with another generator, it is not critical, only the acceleration of the horizontal transformer is important here.

ATTENTION!!!
The output voltage from the multiplier is about 30,000 volts, this voltage can be deadly in some cases, so please be extremely careful. After turning off the circuit charge remains in the multiplier, close high voltage terminals to fully discharge it. Do all experiments with high voltage away from electronic devices.
In general, the entire circuit is under high voltage, so do not touch the components during operation.


The installation can be used as a demonstration high voltage generator, with which a number of interesting experiments can be carried out.

Hello. Today we will talk about a very powerful and cool homemade product. Today I will assemble a powerful high-voltage generator with a voltage of about 25 kV. This is not the first time I have assembled this scheme, so there are no difficulties. I will try to explain everything short and simple
Perhaps I'll start with a high-voltage generator circuit. I found it when I was collecting it, and saved it just in case. Diagram of just a dozen components
As he said, he assembled the circuit for the second oscillator, the circuit is now successfully working in welding. The bottom board is the high voltage generator


While collecting, I managed to play enough with an arc sometimes reaching 3 centimeters, which was approximately 30 kV. Even then, I thought of assembling the same generator for myself, it was only necessary to assemble the appropriate components, and now the time has come

I found a Soviet-made color TV and pulled out a line scan board from it


Actually, from this board, only a line transformer and a capacitor k73-17 for 400V 0.47 uF are needed. I had a couple of them on the first generator.
I cleaned the board from the old tracks with a grinder, installed a horizontal transformer in the old place by winding two windings of 5 turns. I made a choke from the same transformer, which I will redo a little later.


Started assembling the control part of the circuit. The installation will be hinged, I don’t want to fool around with the board. Installed FETs 40N60 on radiator, through insulating gaskets


At the next stage of the assembly, I soldered powerful three-ampere Schottky diodes


The trick is to solder the capacitor between the drains of the transistors and solder the 390 Ohm resistors into the gates. I didn’t install zener diodes, since I don’t have them, but the circuit works fine without them


I soldered the transformer to the drains and rewound the inductor, since the inductance of the previous one is too small. New inductor with 50 uH inductance.

It's time to try and start the high-voltage generator. I connect the board to . In the photo, the arc is about half a centimeter, which is equal to 5kV. Power supply 20V


I tried to expand the arc to 2.5 cm, the voltage rose to 25 kV. The arc became wide and powerful, it lights a cigarette in a split second 🙂 But the wire began to melt and the experiment had to be interrupted


So that the wires do not burn, one output of the high-voltage winding was connected to a self-tapping screw screwed into the board, and a bolt was screwed onto the second.
Power supplied 20V, no-load current 0.6A




Now I'll try to ignite the arc up to 25 kV and make a measurement. The voltage dipped to 13.2V, the current consumption was 6.25A. Power consumption 82.5W, the pencil lights up without any problems at all




Unfortunately my lab can't start the arc harder and so the transformer is overloaded. We need to find something more powerful and see what else the high-voltage generator is capable of.
I shot a short video of the generator here, I hope you will be interested.

In the meantime, I was loading this video, I found another interesting video of the operation of this generator from 30V, guys, this is generally tin

HV blocking generator (high voltage power supply) for experiments - you can buy it on the Internet or make it yourself. To do this, we need not a lot of details and the ability to work with a soldering iron.

In order to collect it you need:

1. Horizontal scan transformer TVS-110L, TVS-110PTs15 from tube b/w and color TVs (any line)

2. 1 or 2 capacitors 16-50v - 2000-2200pF

3. 2 resistors 27Ω and 270-240Ω

4. 1-transistor 2T808A KT808 KT808A or similar in characteristics. + good heatsink for cooling

5. Wires

6. Soldering iron

7. Straight arms


And so we take the lineman, disassemble it carefully, leave the secondary high-voltage winding, consisting of many turns of thin wire, a ferrite core. We wind our windings with enameled copper wire on the second free side of the ferite core, having previously made a tube around the ferite from thick cardboard.


First: 5 turns approximately 1.5-1.7 mm in diameter

Second: 3 turns approximately 1.1mm in diameter

In general, the thickness and number of turns can be varied. What was at hand - from that and made.

Resistors and a pair of powerful bipolar npn transistors- KT808a and 2t808a. He did not want to make a radiator - due to the large size of the transistor, although later experience showed that a large radiator is definitely needed.


To power all this, I chose a 12V transformer, you can also power it from a regular 12 volt 7A acc. from UPS. (to increase the output voltage, you can apply not 12 volts, but for example 40 volts, but here you already have to think about good cooling trance, and turns of the primary winding can be made not 5-3 but 7-5 for example).

If you are going to use a transformer, then you will need a diode bridge to rectify the current from AC to DC, the diode bridge can be found in the power supply from the computer, you can also find capacitors and resistors + wires there.

as a result, we get 9-10kV at the output.


I placed the whole structure in the case from the PSU. it turned out pretty compact.

So, we have an HV Blocking Generator which allows us to experiment and run the Tesla Transformer.

  • tutorial

Good afternoon, dear Khabrovites.
This post is going to be a little different.
In it, I will tell you how to make a simple and powerful enough high voltage generator (280,000 volts). As a basis, I took the scheme of the Marx Generator. The peculiarity of my circuit is that I recalculated it for affordable and inexpensive parts. In addition, the circuit itself is easy to repeat (it took me 15 minutes to assemble it), does not require configuration and starts the first time. In my opinion, it is much simpler than a Tesla transformer or a Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier.

Principle of operation

Immediately after switching on, the capacitors begin to charge. In my case, up to 35 kilovolts. As soon as the voltage reaches the breakdown threshold of one of the arresters, the capacitors through the arrester will be connected in series, which will double the voltage on the capacitors connected to this arrester. Because of this, the rest of the arresters almost instantly work, and the voltage across the capacitors adds up. I used 12 steps, that is, the voltage should be multiplied by 12 (12 x 35 = 420). 420 kilovolts are almost half a meter discharges. But in practice, taking into account all the losses, discharges 28 cm long were obtained. The losses were due to corona discharges.

About details:

The circuit itself is simple, consists of capacitors, resistors and arresters. You will also need a power source. Since all parts are high-voltage, the question arises, where can I get them? Now about everything in order:
1 - resistors
We need resistors of 100 kOhm, 5 watts, 50,000 volts.
I tried many factory resistors, but none could withstand such a voltage - the arc pierced over the case and nothing worked. Careful googling gave an unexpected answer: the craftsmen who built the Marx generator for voltages of more than 100,000 volts used complex liquid resistors, the Marx generator with liquid resistors, or used a lot of steps. I wanted something simpler and made the resistors out of wood.

I broke off two even branches of a damp tree on the street (dry current does not conduct) and turned on the first branch instead of a group of resistors to the right of the capacitors, the second branch instead of a group of resistors to the left of the capacitors. It turned out two branches with many conclusions at equal distances. I drew conclusions by winding bare wire over the branches. Experience shows that such resistors withstand voltages of tens of megavolts (10,000,000 volts)

2 - capacitors
Everything is easier here. I took capacitors that were the cheapest on the radio market - K15-4, 470 pf, 30 kV, (they are also greensheets). They were used in tube TVs, so now you can buy them at disassembly or ask for free. They withstand a voltage of 35 kilovolts well, not a single one has broken through.
3 - power supply
To assemble a separate circuit to power my Marx generator, my hand simply did not rise. Because the other day a neighbor gave me an old TV set "Electron TTs-451". At the anode of the kinescope in color televisions, a constant voltage of about 27,000 volts is used. I disconnected the high-voltage wire (suction cup) from the kinescope anode and decided to check what kind of arc would come from this voltage.

Having played enough with the arc, I came to the conclusion that the circuit in the TV is quite stable, easily withstands overloads, and in the event of a short circuit, protection is triggered and nothing burns out. The circuit in the TV has a power reserve and I managed to overclock it from 27 to 35 kilovolts. To do this, I twisted the R2 trimmer in the TV power supply module so that the horizontal power supply rose from 125 to 150 volts, which in turn led to an increase in the anode voltage to 35 kilovolts. When you try to increase the voltage even more, it breaks the KT838A transistor in the line scan of the TV, so you need not to overdo it.

Assembly process

Using copper wire, I screwed the capacitors to the tree branches. There must be a distance of 37 mm between the capacitors, otherwise unwanted breakdown may occur. I bent the free ends of the wire so that between them it turned out 30 mm - these will be the arresters.

It is better to see once than to hear 100 times. Watch the video where I showed in detail the assembly process and the operation of the generator:

Safety

Special care must be taken, as the circuit operates on a constant voltage and a discharge from even a single capacitor is likely to be fatal. When turning on the circuit, you need to be at a sufficient distance because electricity breaks through the air 20 cm or even more. After each shutdown, it is imperative to discharge all capacitors (even those on the TV) with a well-grounded wire.

It is better to remove all electronics from the room where the experiments will be carried out. Discharges create powerful electromagnetic impulses. The phone, keyboard and monitor that I have shown in the video are out of order and can no longer be repaired! Even in the next room, my gas boiler turned off.

You need to protect your hearing. The noise from the discharges is similar to shots, then it rings in the ears.

The first thing you feel when you turn it on is how the air in the room is electrified. The intensity of the electric field is so high that it is felt by every hair of the body.

The corona discharge is clearly visible. Beautiful bluish glow around parts and wires.
Constantly slightly shocked, sometimes you don’t even understand why: touched the door - a spark slipped through, wanted to take the scissors - shot from the scissors. In the dark, I noticed that sparks jumped between different metal objects that were not connected with the generator: in a diplomat with a tool, sparks jumped between screwdrivers, pliers, and a soldering iron.

Light bulbs light up on their own, without wires.

Ozone smells throughout the house, like after a thunderstorm.

Conclusion

All parts will cost about 50 UAH ($ 5), this is an old TV and capacitors. Now I'm developing fundamentally new scheme, with the aim of obtaining meter discharges at no particular cost. You ask: what is the application of this scheme? I will answer that there are applications, but they need to be discussed in another topic.

That's all for me, be careful when working with high voltage.

From this article you will learn how to get high voltage, with high frequency with your own hands. The cost of the entire structure does not exceed 500 rubles, with a minimum of labor costs.

You only need 2 things to make it:- energy saving lamp(the main thing is to have a working ballast circuit) and a horizontal transformer from a TV, monitor and other CRT equipment.

Energy-saving lamps (correct name: compact fluorescent lamp) are already firmly entrenched in our everyday life, so find a lamp with a non-working bulb, but with working scheme ballast, I think it will not be difficult.
The CFL electronic ballast generates high frequency voltage pulses (typically 20-120 kHz) which feed a small step-up transformer and so on. the lamp lights up. Modern ballasts are very compact and fit easily into the base of the E27 cartridge.

The lamp ballast produces voltage up to 1000 volts. If you connect a horizontal transformer instead of a lamp bulb, you can achieve amazing effects.

A little about compact fluorescent lamps

Blocks on the diagram:
1 - rectifier. In him AC voltage is converted to a constant.
2 - transistors connected according to the push-pull circuit (push-pull).
3 - toroidal transformer
4 - resonant circuit of a capacitor and a choke to create a high voltage
5 - fluorescent lamp, which we will replace with a lineman

CFLs are produced in a variety of capacities, sizes, and form factors. The greater the power of the lamp, the higher the voltage must be applied to the lamp bulb. In this article, I used a 65 watt CFL.

Most CFLs have the same type of circuitry. And all have 4 outputs per connection fluorescent lamp. It will be necessary to connect the ballast output to the primary winding of the line transformer.

A little about line transformers

Liners also come in different sizes and shapes.

The main problem when connecting a lineman is to find the 3 conclusions we need out of 10-20 usually present in them. One conclusion - general and a couple of other conclusions - primary winding, which will cling to the CFL ballast.
If you can find documentation for a lineman, or a diagram of the equipment where he used to stand, then your task will be much easier.

Attention! The stitcher may contain residual voltage, so be sure to discharge it before working with it.

Final design

In the photo above you can see the device in action.

And remember that this is a constant tension. The thick red pin is a "plus". If you need AC voltage, then you need to remove the diode from the line, or find an old one without a diode.

Possible problems

When I assembled my first high voltage circuit, it worked immediately. Then I used a ballast from a 26 watt lamp.
I immediately wanted more.

I took a more powerful ballast from CFL and exactly repeated the first scheme. But the scheme didn't work. I thought the ballast had burned out. I reconnected the bulbs of the lamp and turned it on. The lamp is on. So it was not the ballast - he was a worker.

After a little thought, I concluded that the ballast electronics should determine the filament of the lamp. I only used 2 external output on the bulb of the lamp, and left the internal "in the air." So I put a resistor between the outer and inner pins of the ballast. Turned it on - the circuit worked, but the resistor quickly burned out.

I decided to use a capacitor instead of a resistor. The fact is that the capacitor passes only alternating current, and the resistor is both variable and constant. Also, the condenser did not heat up, because. gave little resistance to the AC path.

The capacitor worked great! The arc turned out to be very large and thick!

So if the scheme didn’t work for you, then most likely there are 2 reasons:
1. Something was connected wrong, either on the side of the ballast, or on the side of the horizontal transformer.
2. Ballast electronics are tied to work with a filament, and since it is not there, then a capacitor will help replace it.