If the old Soviet luminaire with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, disposing of the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.

Most importantly, fluorescent and LED lamps have the same base - G13. No upgrade of the housing, unlike other types of pin contacts, is required.

• G- means that pins are used as contacts

• 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins

Rework Benefits

In doing so, you will receive:

• greater illumination

• lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the inductor)

• lack of vibration and nasty rattling sound from the ballast throttle

True, in more modern models, electronic ballast is already used. They increased efficiency (90% or more), noise disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux remained at the same level.

For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness:

Another advantage of LED - there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it.

For such Led, even if the mains voltage is weak or too high, they will start up and shine without any complaints.

Luminaires with electromagnetic control gear

What should I pay attention to when converting simple fluorescent fixtures to LED? First of all, its design.

If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic gear) throttle, then in fact you don’t need to upgrade anything.

Just pull out the starter, select a new LED lamp according to the overall size, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.

If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.

The throttle does not need to be removed. For LED, the current consumption will be within 0.12A-0.16A, and for the ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will play the role of an ordinary jumper.

After all the alteration, the lamp you have remains the same. There is no need to change the mount on the ceiling, and the burned-out lamps will no longer have to be disposed of and look for special containers for them.

These lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the case.

The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.

And in luminescent they are connected by a filament. When it is heated, the mercury vapor ignites.

In models with electronic control gear, no filament is used and the gap between the contacts is broken by a high voltage pulse.

The most common sizes of such tubes:

• 300mm (used in table lamps)

• 900mm and 1200mm

The longer their length, the brighter the glow.

Alteration of the lamp with electronic control gear

If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a bit with changing the circuit.

What is inside the lamp before alteration:

• throttle

• wires

• contact pads-cartridges on the sides of the case

The choke is what needs to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.

Then disconnect the power wires. You may need a narrow-bladed screwdriver to do this.

You can wire these and just have a bite to eat with pliers.

The connection diagram of the two lamps is different, on the LED everything is done much easier:

The main task that needs to be solved is to apply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one output (for example, the right one), and zero on the other (left).

Earlier it was said that led lamp both pin contacts inside the base are connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.

Use a multimeter to verify this. Set it to the resistance measurement mode, and touch the two leads with the test probes to measure.

The display should show the same values ​​as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).

The fluorescent lamp, between the two terminals on each side, has the resistance of the filament, which, after applying a voltage of 220V through it, warms up and “starts” the lamp.

• without dismantling cartridges

• with dismantling and installation of jumpers through their contacts

without dismantling

The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, you bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Then put them into the same Vago clamp.

Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pcs.

After that, all that remains is to apply phase to the clamp on one side, and zero on the other.

No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, with jumpers, climb into the contacts of the cartridges, etc.

With the dismantling of cartridges and the installation of jumpers

Another method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.

Remove the side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because. in modern products, the latches are made of fragile and brittle plastic.

After that, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them are two contacts that are isolated from each other.

Such cartridges can be of several varieties:

All of them are equally suitable for lamps with a G13 base. They may have springs inside.

First of all, they are not needed for better contact, but so that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the size of the length. Since with an accuracy of up to a millimeter, it is not always possible to make identical lamps.

There are two power wires for each cartridge. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special screwless contacts.

Turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with an effort pull out one of them.

As mentioned above, the pins inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wires, you actually leave one contact socket out of your hands.

All current will now flow through the other pin. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to slightly improve the design by placing a jumper.

Thanks to her, you do not have to catch the contact by turning the LED lamp around. The double connector ensures a secure connection.

The jumper can be made from the extra power wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely have as a result of the alteration.

With a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.

The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite the rest.

Fluorescent lamps for two, four or more lamps

If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors.

When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.

The second lamp will glow only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will immediately go out.

The supply conductors must converge on the terminal block, where in turn you will have connected:

The modern small-sized table lamp shown in the photograph, with a light source in the form of a fluorescent U-shaped compact lamp, worked for several years and failed.

According to the owner table lamp, recently, when the lamp was still working, an unpleasant smell was coming from its base.

Opening the base of the lamp immediately showed what the malfunction was. Insulation burned in one of the windings of the ballast device. Obviously, due to overheating or poor quality insulation of the winding wire of the coil, there was a short circuit between the turns, which provoked the heating of the winding to high temperature and the final failure of the ballast device.

I didn’t want to bother with rewinding the coils, and it’s almost impossible to find a ready-made ballast device for replacement, especially since its type was unknown. Therefore, I decided to remake the table lamp in a modern way - to install LEDs instead of a fluorescent lamp, and replace the ballast device with an electronic driver, especially since everything was at hand for such a remake.

Replacing a fluorescent lamp with LEDs

There was a long and narrow printed circuit board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp.

The driver in it burned out and melted the body-tube from heating. Therefore, repair linear lamp was not subject, and the diodes were serviceable. In width, the bar with LEDs just fit well into the reflector of the table lamp.

The luminescent U-shaped tube was held in the reflector by a plastic retainer and a plinth. To determine the required length of the LED strip, the lamp with the base had to be removed. In order to get to the base of the fluorescent lamp, I had to unscrew one screw and remove the fixing bar.

The base did not have an additional fastening, and to remove it, it remained only to unsolder the two supply wires. The wires were stranded of sufficient cross section, so I decided to leave them to supply voltage to the LEDs.

After fitting and determining the length of the LED strip, a piece of the required length was sawn off with a jigsaw. The LEDs on the bar are placed diagonally, so I had to cut with a jigsaw.

The cutting line went through right place, the printed tracks connecting the LEDs remained intact.

The existing table lamp reflector fasteners were used to mount the LED bar. The fluorescent lamp was fixed with a plastic bracket screwed to the reflector with a self-tapping screw, and the fixing cover was screwed to the plastic stand.

In the bar between the LEDs, a hole with a diameter of 3 mm was drilled for a self-tapping screw and a sample was made for mounting to the rack. After checking the alignment of the mounting hole with the hole in the short rack, you can proceed to fix the bar with LEDs in the reflector.

Before the final installation of the bar with LEDs in the reflector, it is necessary to solder the wires to the pads on it. One of the wires was short, and it had to be increased by soldering and an insulating cambric was put on the junction. Since the wires were of the same color, after testing with a multimeter, the positive wire was marked on both sides with white cambric rings put on.

I used a pre-made PCB with LEDs. But such a board is easy to do with your own hands. Moreover, if you use modern single-watt LEDs, for example LED-SMD5730-1, then it is enough to solder only 3-5 pieces. You can also use an LED strip glued to a metal strip as a light source instead of individual LEDs. You will have to select a driver in each case individually.

The photo clearly shows how the printed circuit board with the LEDs installed on it is fixed in the reflector of the table lamp. In order for the bar to be removed from the bottom of the reflector at the long post (photo on the left), a cambric was put on it with a length equal to the height of the right short post.

Before fixing the LEDs in the reflector, they were tested by connecting to the driver. The current consumption was also measured. The photo shows a reflector with LEDs installed in it. It remains to attach the fixing cover, having previously put a piece of cambric on the protruding stand for its entire length. Thus, sandwiched between two pieces of tubes, the left edge of the bar will also be securely fixed.

Selection and wiring diagram of the driver

To supply voltage to the LEDs, a transformerless driver from a faulty E27 LED lamp was used, assembled according to the classical electrical circuit diagram.

In the photo you see the wiring to the driver. The black wires coming from the LED board are soldered to the positive and negative outputs of the driver. With the help of blue and yellow wires, a 220 V supply voltage is supplied to the driver.

Electrical circuit diagram driver is above. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 0.8 uF limits the current to 57 mA. R1 and R3 limit the inrush current due to the charge of the capacitors at the moment the driver is connected to the network. The diode bridge VD1-VD4 rectifies the voltage, and the electrolytic capacitor C2 smoothes the ripple so that the LEDs do not blink at the mains frequency. A safety element is also installed in the driver circuit, most likely it is a barter, it smooths out current surges and at the same time is a fuse. If it is necessary to reduce or increase the supply current of the LEDs, then it will be necessary to reduce or increase the capacitance of the capacitor C1 accordingly. You can increase C1 even without soldering it out of the board, by soldering an additional capacitor in parallel to its terminals. When capacitors are connected in parallel, the total capacitance is equal to the sum of their capacitances, that is, it will increase and the current will also increase.

The constant current, which ensures the optimal brightness of the glow of the LEDs used, is 20 mA. LEDs on printed circuit board three are connected in parallel. Therefore, the current required for their operation according to such a switching circuit should be 60 mA. As you know, for long-term operation of LEDs, it is better that the flowing current is slightly less than the rated current. Therefore, the 57 mA current provided by the driver satisfies this requirement.

There were 60 LEDs on the bar. The measured voltage drop across each triad of LEDs was 2.48 V. Thus, the power consumed by the LEDs was 2.48 V × 20 pcs. × 0.057 A \u003d 2.8 W, which is equivalent to the glow power of an incandescent light bulb of 25 W. The generated illumination of a table lamp is quite sufficient when used as a standby light, night lamp, computer keyboard backlight or reading an e-book.

The weight of the driver is insignificant and therefore I did not fasten it rigidly, I simply grabbed it with a flexible plastic clamp by one of the racks for attaching the halves of the base. The standard table lamp switch was used as a switch. To complete the alteration of the table lamp, it remains only to fasten its base together with three self-tapping screws, and it will be possible to proceed with sea trials.

Table lamp tests showed good result. Thanks to the ability to tilt the stand and rotate the reflector in two planes, the table lamp allows you to direct the light flux to the desired lighting area.

The alteration allowed not only to restore the table lamp to working capacity at no cost, but also turned the obsolete table lamp into a modern lamp with low energy consumption.

Probably at least once, but you have seen just such a table lamp, more often, such designs are used in manipulations in beauty salons.
However, in ordinary home life, such a lamp is very convenient.
Since I spend enough time at my laptop, I had to have such lighting on a rather long tripod. Only I do not consider the cold white CW light emitted by it to be comfortable. The lamp worked for me for more than a year, and I began to suspect that soon the life of the fluorescent lamp would come to an end, and I ordered a coil of LED strip in advance.

The tape arrived, and I just had to wait for the lamp to burn out - which happened a few days later.

I suggest that you look with me at such an option for redesigning the design on:
- its application with led strip;
- think (and implement) about what new qualities this lamp can acquire;
- slightly repair the reflector rotation unit;
- to dream about what else could, if desired, be added to an already finished lamp.

Disassembly.

It was not difficult - it is always easier to disassemble. Pay attention to the massive choke that was hidden in the cubic cavity of the vertical rotary assembly of the luminaire rod system. I got rid of it, but of course I did not throw it away.

In the base of the lamp, a plastic container was found with cement poured into it, which pleasantly surprised me - I expected to find a bag of sand. Of course, this weighting agent will have to be replaced with something. Looking ahead, I’ll say that at that time, I was leaning towards the sand, but a replacement was found.

The coil itself with tape on 2835 LEDs. The choice was not random. I did not want too much power (brightness), since I would have to think about removing significant heat. I also didn’t want to complicate the designs by dimming - because I don’t like long-term ones. And the tape must be WW - a warm white glow. In general, I bought exactly what I wanted.

The tape was cut into 8 pieces, and glued with a sticky layer to the standard reflector.
Then I became discouraged, realizing that how much I would have to solder ...

After cutting off a suitable piece of the circuit board, I prepared and irradiated 16 conductors. In this case, a group of eight conductors was located in the center of the circuit board and was defined as positive conductors, and two groups of four conductors were intended to be connected to the negative pole of the power source.

To my joy, it soldered very easily, and literally after 7 minutes, I already had a ready-made version.


and

I put the handkerchief itself on hot glue, and checked the operation at reduced voltage, - I was pleased with the result.

Power supply and stand.

I decided to place it in a stand. Just one such, quite overall, I had nothing to do. And again, looking ahead, I will say that - this placement of the power supply is not the only one.

Since I could no longer place a regular weighting agent, I was about to grab a plastic bag with sand, but I remembered that six years ago I was engaged in casting half-rings of weighting agents from lead and fled to my magical shed. In the same shed, I also came across a rubber ball pierced by me from mine.

The half-rings were flattened on the anvil, because, in height, they interfered with the assembly of the base of the lamp, and were wrapped in halves from a deflated ball - it turned out tight, tight and elastic. =)

Yes, pay attention to the piece of twisted cord - it was soldered at one end to 12v from the power supply, passed through the hole on the back of the stand. At its other end, a plug was soldered for connecting to a reciprocal socket, which I placed in an empty cubic cavity left after removing the inductor.

The general view is like this

Minor repairs.

After a year of operation, the head of the lamp with a reflector is no longer fixed in horizontal position. In other words, if the head of the lamp is turned at an angle to the upper link of the lamp leg, the swivel assembly could not bear the weight of the head, and the head itself fell down.
It was, of course, the weight's fault. fluorescent light bulb. And although the weight of the entire lamp assembly has significantly decreased, this problem remains.
It was impossible to disassemble this knot, and I just bit off the plastic ebbs of the knot strut, and screwed a self-tapping screw between the springy petals.
Everyone who came across a lamp of this type must have come across this defect of the rotary assembly - you will figure it out =)


and

Touch control.

Look down the photos, you can see the pink USB light on a flexible leg, it is touch sensitive. These lamps, I scored five pieces a few years ago at fifty cents for one.

In general, I gave three, and left two. The LEDs in one of them have lost their brightness, this is especially noticeable in comparison with the new one.

Inside the lamp are hidden:
- chip TPP223;
- field N (corrected, for which - thanks) channel transistor SI2302;
- three LEDs;
- and SMD strapping all of this.

This is a ready-made control scheme, and I could not help being seduced by it.
The only thing I applied to the TPP223 was from the integrated 3.3v stabilizer. I knocked off two LEDs from the board, and left the last one for debugging. I put low-resistance resistors for the sake of experiment, then, I removed them.
The total current was less than one ampere =)

What could be done differently.

As you can see, I used an overall power supply - but it was like that.
You also saw that the cubic cavity that housed the choke was left empty. If you have a small-sized 12v power supply at hand, then it is better to place it there. Then, in the stand, you can place the coils wireless charging, they just beg for it there, and for the detachable connection of the stand and the power supply, you can use the same trick that I used =)

PS
I did not know that this type of lamps are quite common among readers =))
A snippet of the video is available at

At home, I have long equipped all the lighting fixtures with homemade LEDs, and only in the office remained the only lamp with a compact fluorescent lamp on the desktop.

Since the lamp was used quite intensively, lamps for it with a G23 base with a power of 11 W had to be changed at intervals of once a year and a half, despite the respected manufacturer Osram.

In addition, six months before the burnout, the lamp began to wink at the network frequency, which was terribly tiring. The lamp did not turn on immediately, but with a delay required to warm up the starter (like a conventional fluorescent tube), which is located in the lamp base.

Another of the shortcomings of my lamp, it should be noted that the plug-choke is too heavy, which constantly fell out of the euro socket and, moreover, was itself a consumer of electricity. In general, when the time came to change the lamp once again, I thought about converting the lamp to LED.

Dismantling the device is very simple: I had to unscrew only three screws. There was enough space in the ceiling to accommodate a driver and a heatsink with LEDs. Considering that the power of a 6 W LED lamp is enough to illuminate the workplace, I began to select accessories.

I did not find a driver for 6 one-watt LEDs, so I had to use a driver for two-watt LEDs and, accordingly, three three-watt LEDs (two-watt LEDs do not exist). They will work in a lightweight mode - two- and fastening the radiator to the body of the reflector of the lamp, after which I drilled two holes 0 2.5 mm and six 0 2 mm on the drilling machine at these points, and then cut the MZ and M threads into them 2.5 respectively.

To place the driver, the “native” G23 cartridge came up, from which I milled one of the sockets for connecting the lamp with a boron machine. As a result, there was no need to worry about isolating the driver from the radiator and reflector.

The radiator was installed in the ceiling and secured with two M3 screws through the holes drilled in the reflector.

Unfortunately, I ran out of hot glue. Therefore, I soldered the LEDs to the Star boards using KPT-8 thermal paste (but I didn’t have to wait until the hot melt adhesive dries). I fixed the boards with LEDs to the radiator with M2.5 screws, also through thermal paste.

Next, I soldered the LEDs in series with a MGTF wire with a cross section of 0.12 mm2 and soldered the output wires of the driver to the light-emitting module, observing the polarity. I put the cartridge with the driver in place and soldered the input wires to the "native" switch. All connections were insulated with heat shrink tubing. Then he closed the ceiling cover and, breathing a sigh of relief, cut off the annoying plug-throttle. Instead, put an ordinary two-pole plug.

Trial turning on the lamp showed that I was in vain afraid for the LED-board transition, where thermal paste was used instead of hot melt adhesive: the temperature regime after an hour of operation was normal. Measurements were taken at the negative output of the LED (the point most exposed to heat) and at the point of contact between the heatsink and the board. Lamp conversion completed.

I want to note that in the work the "native" details of the lamp were used to the maximum, but they were bought - for a penny! And the change took a few hours. And this lamp will also serve my grandchildren.

The economic effect of replacing light bulbs with LEDs

The power of the lamp as a result of the alteration decreased from 11 to 6 W, that is, now the lamp consumes electricity almost half as much. And if we take into account the reactive component of power consumption by the throttle old lamp, then economical effect will be much more significant. At the same time, the luminous flux even increased a little and amounts to 600-660 lm, which is quite enough to illuminate the workplace.

Accessories

• Driver HG-2234 with characteristics: U in = 90-240 VAC; U out \u003d 6-12 VDC; I out = 460-500 mA; dimensions - 25 x 17 x 17 mm.
• Three 3HPD-3 LEDs (I pr. \u003d 700/1000 mA; U \u003d 2.9-3.6 V; Фv \u003d "250 - 270 lm at rated current; 281/2 \u003d 120 degrees; T \u003d 3060 K ; chip 45 x 45 mil).
• Three radiator plates Star 0 20 mm and 1.6 mm thick.
• Radiator HS 172-30 dimensions 150 x 30 x 13 mm.

Do-it-yourself LED in a table lamp - photo

1. Osram 11 W lamp, which had to be changed to LEDs.
2. Dismantling the lamp turned out to be quite an easy task.
3. Accessories for the LED module.
4. The HS 172-30 radiator is quite suitable for cooling three LEDs.
5. Well-designed radiator.
6. M2.5 holes - for mounting the Star board, M3 hole - for mounting the heatsink
7. Part of the cartridge is milled with a drill ...
8. …to install the driver here.
9. The radiator fits freely on the ceiling reflector.
10. Payments are set.
11. All elements of the light-emitting module were desoldered with MGTF wire.
12. The only thing left is to put the lid back on and change the plug.

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