home Questions Light effects on arduino. LED lamp with fire effect on arduino and flame control. Device control via household remote control

Light effects on arduino. LED lamp with fire effect on arduino and flame control. Device control via household remote control

Price: $8.69

“What is the New Year without a Christmas tree?”

Your toys are defective! - What, do not shine? - No, they are not happy!

Probably everyone is already tired of boring garlands with the same type of effects. I would like something more serious, with a minimum investment and use of the head (it already hurts from the New Year's commotion).

Here we consider a garland for 100 LEDs, with 1000 variations and a controller price of 150 rubles

My Wishlist:

Use the tape on the WS2811, and to be controlled by the remote. On Arduino, as a rule, this is not feasible, it is rather weak, there are not enough resources, you can’t screw anything extra.

I was already ready to build this on ARM controllers. (I have a lot of LPC1754 controllers lying around) but I don’t want to solder, and I don’t have time to translate code from Arduino.

Yes, I know what can be done on the ESP8266, but I don’t want to ... (those who wish can port the sketch themselves)

And so painfully searching the Internet in search of interesting effects for different libraries, I accidentally came across the FastLED-Demos page, where Andrew Tuline uploads effects for the FastLED library.

I was interested in the notamesh section

I said wow... and away we go...

So.

To repeat the pattern:

A garland is bought on the WS2811 or WS2812 or the like (probably bought a long time ago at past sales).

Bought Arduino module UNO, NANO or similar on an ATMega328 controller

An IR module is taken (such or such)

Remote control from an old TV or VCR, or player.

Power supply 5 volts and 3 amps. Well, any

I had 100 pieces of WS2812B, I rolled each LED into transparent heat shrink, this gave a 360 degree glow.

Pictures

In the bins lay a scarf on the NANO circuit, a power supply, an IR receiver, and the case from the router connected it all together.

Pictures

I managed:

input from IR pin 8 (PB0, D8, physical pin 12),

garland output pin 14 (PC0, A0, physical pin 23)

Here is the diagram:

Check the pinout (for example, IR receivers may have different legs)

You can choose other Arduino legs, I'll show you where to change in the sketch.

Now about the sketch

I left the first one, replaced the second one with IRremote (https://github.com/z3t0/Arduino-IRremote), now the remote works with the FastLED library.

My version of the sketch with these libraries https://yadi.sk/d/4aKV_Ug6HcFdWQ

I tried not to redo the original sketch (no time).

I will add more commands in the future.

We continue

Download the FastLED and IRremote libraries and install.

To install the IRremote library, on the advice of the author, you need to remove Arduino/libraries/RobotIRremote

We take the remote, load an example from the IRremote library called IRrecvDemo

Line 11 int RECV_PIN = 11; 11 change to 8 (in my circuit, an IR receiver is connected to this pin)

Uploading the sketch to the Arduino.

We poke on the remote control buttons and in the port monitor mode the codes will appear, remember them.

These codes must be inserted into the file commands.h,

For example:

for the team IR_A1(increase brightness) I have a key code on the remote 0xff4ab5

#define IR_A1 0xff4ab5 //N/P // Brighten up A1

understand I think.

Setting up my sketch

In line 75 we set the pin of the IR receiver int RECV_PIN = 8;

In line 84 we set the output pin to the garland #define LED_DT 14

If you have other garlands, then in lines 84-87 its type is selected.

And do not forget for 4 wire garlands to remove the comment on line 208 and add to 209

// LEDS.addLeds (leds, MAX_LEDS);

LEDS.addLeds (leds, MAX_LEDS);

If the pins are not confused, then it should work right away

At the first start, the number of LEDs in the garland is set to 20 pcs.

Therefore, for those who do not use the remote control, it is necessary to put the required number of LEDs in drain 119,

#define INITLEN 20

and if you have already launched, then change the code on line 225

NUM_LEDS = EEPROM.read(STRANDLEN);

On the NUM_LEDS=100;

Where 100 is your number of LEDs.

For the rest, the number of LEDs can be adjusted from the remote

I am not limited in the current of the power supply, if your power supply is weaker,

then in line 211 we change the second number to yours

set_max_power_in_volts_and_milliamps(5, 3000);

where 3000 is the maximum current of the power supply in mA, we change it if necessary

Look like that's it

When I have time, I will add effects and post the sketch here.

I recorded video effects (demonstration mode)

And the video, when not changing the effect, switched palettes with the remote control.

(ATmega328P) it became possible to develop the project further. And now I have connected a smart tape (NeoPixels) WS2812 to the Effector.
At the same time, the new Effector WS2812 not only displays its effects on a smart tape instead of conventional LEDs, but also acquired an impressive amount of new functionality.

New buns:
- the algorithm for generating levels has been redesigned, now the brightness of the channels has 255 gradations (compared to 8 in previous version)

- redesigned built-in effects, now they have become smoother
- The number of built-in effects has been increased from 8 to 16.

True, only 8 are available from the Effector-12 control program, as in the previous version (I didn’t remake the program so that it would remain compatible with all Effector options), but you can switch all 16 from the Effector itself and the remote control

- as in the previous Effector, the control from the IR remote control remains, but new control commands have been added related to the smart tape
- since the smart tape is colored, color palettes were used to generate different colors from monochrome channel level signals. You can choose from 8 palettes (including a dynamic palette of iridescent colors)
- now the Effector can be a member of the ZiChip network as a satellite

The effector can provide channel information to other satellites or be controlled by another device on the network. I plan to use this to update mine by making friends with the Effector 12 program (this will be a separate article)

- the number of displayed pixels on the smart feed can be arbitrary, up to 255 pixels
- you can adjust the overall brightness of the tape
– the 12 channel pattern is not just located on 12 pixels of the tape, but can be scaled (stretched) by any number of pixels
- a pattern on a tape longer than 12 pixels is repeated cyclically
- most of the generated effects are cyclic and a continuous picture of the effect is created on the tape (it is impossible to determine the boundaries of the effect area)
- for non-cyclic effects, a mirror version of the repetition of channels is provided, which creates a continuous picture in this case too
- drawing on the tape can be shifted by an arbitrary number of pixels
- the control lines (those to which the buttons are connected) are implemented according to the "mounting OR" principle - this means that by controlling the device using the remote control, you can receive control signals (pressing to the ground) on these lines that can be used, for example, to control your own devices.

How it looks live.

As you can see in the video, compared to , which has all the effects fast and sharp, the new Effector produces a smooth and unhurried picture of the effects. In general, this modification of the Effector went under my motto "Smooth".

Assembly

Since the device is running at the finished Arduino board Nano (or Uno), you don’t have to assemble / solder anything special. It is enough to connect a smart tape to Arduino (to pin 13), (via a standard Arduino USB cable) and the device will work.

If your number of WS2812 pixels does not exceed 2-3 dozen, then you won’t need a separate power supply - everything will work from the USB port. If the tape is long, the USB port will not be able to provide the required current. In this case, you will need an external powerful block 5 volt supply.

For a demo video on YouTube, I collected the minimum necessary for me on a breadboard and laid the tape in a plastic cable channel (it creates a coherent picture by highlighting from the inside, hiding the glow of individual pixels).

If you want to get more from the device - add variable resistors, buttons and TSOP etc.

The tape was provided to me for testing by the store. If you like the device and want to repeat it, then the tape in Ukraine can be purchased at the same store - link to tapes. For Russia, it can be purchased from one of my partners TIXER.RU (they promised to replenish the assortment in the near future).

Work description

The device works like its predecessor, but there are innovations. I'll go through the controls.
Buttons:
– 0 All Off- disables all effects and extinguishes the tape
– 1 EE-series– launches a sequence of effects stored in EEPROM (there are 4 of them in total and they can be changed from the Effector-12 program)
– 2 Flash-series- launches a random sequence of effects built into the device (there are 16 of them, they cannot be changed, the effect change period is 10 seconds)
– 3 Next- starts the next effect, while it remains running constantly, in addition, after restarting the Effector, this effect will continue to work
– 4 strip_Mirrors– while holding this line on the “ground”, the 12 channels of the Effector begin to be located on the tape in a periodic-mirror (i.e. A-L,L-A,A-L,…), instead of the default periodic arrangement (i.e. A-L,A-L,A-L, …)
– 5 strip_ R, 6 strip_ G, 7 strip_ B- these three lines define the current palette, which displays the effects pattern on the ribbon

in the "rainbow" version, the color is constantly cyclically changing

– 8 strip_ IR Out- while holding this line pressed to the "ground", information about the state of the channels begins to be transmitted to the IR network (IR-LED emitter) (more on this in a separate article).

The new control method in this device are analog inputs (ADC). Through the voltage on them (within 0 - 5 volts), you can change the picture displayed on the tape. The ADC lines are pulled up to 5 volts, that is, if nothing is connected to the line, the device perceives this as the maximum level.

– strip_ Pixels number- the number of pixels in the tape that reproduce the picture (5 volts - 255 pcs., 0 - 0)
– strip_ Scale- scaling the image on the tape (5 volts - scale 1 channel: 1 pixel, 0 - 1 channel is projected on the entire tape)
– strip_ offset- offset pattern on the tape
– strip_ Bright- the total brightness of the glow of the tape (5 volts - maximum, 0 - minimum)

The voltage level control opens up new possibilities for using the device. For example, if you connect to the input strip_Pixels Number analog signal from the amplifier, then we get a level indicator bar. Also, by using the fire palette and connecting a signal from a thermometer to strip_Bright, you can visualize the temperature, etc.

Device control via household remote control.

Any household remote control is suitable for controlling the device (there may be problems with specific remotes with feedback like the air conditioner remote control).

To learn the buttons you need:
1 - press (and hold) the "Learn" button
2 - reset the Arduino with the reset button (in this case, the indicator LED should blink a few times)
3 - release the "Learn" button.

Due to the fact that in this algorithm it is impossible to organize the suppression of the bounce of the contacts of the “Learn” button, it is necessary to control the moment the button is released. If at this moment the indicator LED blinks, then the learning procedure must be restarted (contact bounce creates a signal similar to the remote control signal, which is remembered as the first button)

4 - sequentially press 9 buttons on the remote control in the order of functions (device buttons 0 All Off ... 8 strip_IR Out)
5 - after that the device automatically starts working in normal mode

Each press of a button on the remote control will be confirmed by an indicator LED.

If any button is not needed in the device (for example, I advise you not to use 8 strip_IR Out yet), then in the process of studying it, you need to press the previously learned key.

As I wrote above, a new feature of this device is that the control inputs for the buttons are also outputs at the same time if the control is carried out from the remote control. When you press a button on the remote control, the corresponding control line will be pressed to the ground. This can be used to control button presses on the remote or control your devices. The lines from "0 All Off" to "3 Next" when you press the buttons on the remote control will be pressed to the ground for a short time, and the lines from "4 strip_Mirror" to "8 strip_IR Out" work as a trigger (pressed once - pressed, pressed again - released )

Controlling the device using the Effector-12 program.

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With coming! Approaching New Year, which means it's time to urgently create a mood! Well, as always, dozens are born at this time of the year. electronic circuits various color settings.

What only original masters do not come up with. From tri-color blinkers to laser multi-beam systems with MIDI control.

As a big fan of the so-called addressable LEDs, I want to show you a very simple and amazing color music. I have never seen anything like this. Until I collected it in one evening. So, sound visualizer!

Instruction

The circuit is very simple!

You will need Arduino Nano, or Uno. Or which one do you have? Two potentiometers, five resistors, a couple of capacitors and a string (tape) of 180 WS2812b LEDs. Everything! LEDs in the line can be 60, 120 or 180.

In the visualizer, using the fast Fourier transform algorithm, 8 frequencies are selected (the sensitivity threshold for each frequency is different, it decreases from 1 to 8), converted into color and displayed on a line of LEDs according to one of eight algorithms. The sketch was written by Michael Krampas, the guys at Chip and Deep added functionality, and the library for LEDs and Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) was written in Adafruit for the Piccolo project. 128 point FFT library adapted for AVR microcontrollers written in assembler.

The sketch itself and the FFT library need to be downloaded and .

Don't waste time analyzing algorithms, just build, upload the sketch and enjoy the show.
It's just entertainment!

At the time of the first inclusion, you need to do a couple of settings:

Brightness: hold the color button while power on. The first 8 LEDs will display a rainbow of LEDs. Use the param knob to change the brightness. When finished, press the color button again and your configuration will be saved to memory.

LED strip length: hold the pattern button when power on. One, two or three red LEDs will be displayed. Use the param knob to select the length of the LED strip based on the number of red LEDs:

1=60 leds
2=120 leds
3=180 leds

When finished, click the pattern button again and your configuration will be saved to memory.

Algorithms

Dancing plus: peaks of audio signals are emitted from the center of the band and disappear as they approach the ends. The peak speed is proportional to the value sound signal this peak.

Dancing minus: same as Dance Party, but signal peaks are emitted from one end.
Pulse: Signal peaks appear as bright pulses coming from the center of the bar. The pulse width depends on the signal level.

Light strip: the entire band is illuminated in peaks.

Colored stripes: signal peaks are displayed as colored bars that disappear.

Colored stripes 2: like colored stripes, but each strip shrinks and disappears.

Flashes: signal peaks are displayed as an LED flash at a random location. The initial color is white and then fades through another color.

Fireflies: signal spikes are displayed as single LEDs in a random location, and they move left or right and disappear. Their speed depends on the magnitude of the signal.

Color schemes

Random Two-Color Scheme: Two random colors are selected and only those are used to display signal peaks. Over time, new colors will be chosen. Use param to set the rate at which the color scheme changes. If the "options" knob is in the up position, the colors will change frequently and each waveform peak will have a new color. I recommend setting the handle in the middle.

Rainbow: All waveform peaks are displayed as the same color (with a small amount of random variation) and this color changes like a rainbow over time. The color change rate is set by the param potentiometer.

Color Frequencies: In this mode, each signal peak is colored depending on the frequency band where it is located. The lowest band is red, and further up the spectrum. There are 8 frequency bands: red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, purple, white. This color mode is most interesting when the frequency response is tuned to all frequency bands.

Frequency range: you can control the frequency range to which the color music responds. To set the range, press and hold both buttons. Use the param knob to choose how many of the eight frequency bands to display. If you want to highlight the bass and rhythm of the music, set frequency response only on the lowest 2 or 3 lanes. If you want to show all frequencies in music (such as vocals and higher instruments), select all frequency bands.

This is a video instruction for setting up and it is also a demonstration of the visualizer in operation. There are two musical compositions with different algorithms at the end.

One more composition

Guys! And ladies of course. I really want you to have time to make this simple design for the New Year holiday. You will not regret! Your guests will be shocked!

Happy New Year 2018!

Added on 12/15/2017 Epilogue or debriefing
1. How to change the backlight in pauses?
2. Can the dynamics be changed?
3. How to connect a strip with a number of LEDs other than 60/120/180?
In addition, an updated scheme has been published. Don't worry, just added one resistor.
There are two weeks left until the New Year. Can you collect?

Added on 06/09/2018
Made the backlight settings:
sketch and diagram.
We use it like this.
Background illumination:
In pauses, the backlight turns on, i.e. the entire line will glow with the color you have chosen and with the selected brightness.
Color: Set the PARAM2 potentiometer knob to the middle position and press the Background button once. The LED bar will light up. Turn the PARAM2 potentiometer, the color of the ruler will change from red to purple. Select a color and click the Background button again.
Brightness: set the potentiometer to the minimum position (knob all the way clockwise) and press the Background button. The line will turn off. Slowly rotate the PARAM2 potentiometer knob to select the desired backlight brightness and press the Background button again. The brightness values will be written to the memory of the microcontroller.

With coming! The New Year is approaching, which means it's time to urgently create mood! Well, as always, dozens of electronic circuits of various color and musical installations are born at this time of the year.

What only original masters do not come up with. From tri-color blinkers to laser multi-beam systems with MIDI control.

Instruction

The circuit is very simple!

You will need an Arduino Nano, or Uno. Or which one do you have? Two potentiometers, five resistors, a couple of capacitors and a string (tape) of 180 WS2812b LEDs. Everything! LEDs in the line can be 60, 120 or 180.

In the visualizer, using the fast Fourier transform algorithm, 8 frequencies are selected (the sensitivity threshold for each frequency is different, it decreases from 1 to 8), converted into color and displayed on a line of LEDs according to one of eight algorithms. The sketch was written by Michael Krampas, the guys at Chip and Deep added functionality, and the library for LEDs and Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) was written in Adafruit for the Piccolo project. FFT library for 128 points adapted for AVR microcontrollers written in assembler.

The sketch itself and the FFT library need to be downloaded and .

Don't waste time analyzing algorithms, just build, upload the sketch and enjoy the show.
It's just entertainment!

At the time of the first inclusion, you need to do a couple of settings:

LED strip length: hold the pattern button when power on. One, two or three red LEDs will be displayed. Use the param knob to select the length of the LED strip based on the number of red LEDs:

1=60 leds
2=120 leds
3=180 leds

When finished, click the pattern button again and your configuration will be saved to memory.

Algorithms

Dancing plus: peaks of audio signals are emitted from the center of the band and disappear as they approach the ends. The speed of a peak is proportional to the magnitude of the audio signal of that peak.

Light strip: the entire band is illuminated in peaks.

Colored stripes: signal peaks are displayed as colored bars that disappear.

Colored stripes 2: like colored stripes, but each strip shrinks and disappears.

Flashes: signal peaks are displayed as an LED flash at a random location. The initial color is white and then fades through another color.

Fireflies: signal spikes are displayed as single LEDs in a random location, and they move left or right and disappear. Their speed depends on the magnitude of the signal.

Color schemes

Frequency range: you can control the frequency range to which the color music responds. To set the range, press and hold both buttons. Use the param knob to choose how many of the eight frequency bands to display. If you want to bring out the bass and rhythm of the music, set the frequency response to only the lowest 2 or 3 bands. If you want to show all frequencies in music (such as vocals and higher instruments), select all frequency bands.

This is a video instruction for setting up and it is also a demonstration of the visualizer in operation. There are two musical compositions with different algorithms at the end.

One more composition

Guys! And ladies of course. I really want you to have time to make this simple design for the New Year holiday. You will not regret! Your guests will be shocked!

Happy New Year 2018!

Sometimes in a photo you want to add something unusual, fabulous or something. An excellent solution for such tasks is Photoshop, or similar graphic programs. With the inclusion of imagination and proper skill, they can create unrealistically fantastic things. The process is not simple and requires from the author, along with imagination, inspiration, a fair amount of professionalism and skill, including work with this software.

However, back to photography. The very word photographie from the ancient Greek φως / φωτος - light and γραφω - I write, can be translated as light painting, or the technique of drawing with light, which carries the idea of one of the ways to create a particle of fiction in a frozen moment of reality, and the most interesting thing is that there is no deception , the picture is exactly what the camera saw at the time of exposure. That's right, we are talking about such a direction in photography as freezelight. It was this way of creating unusual pictures that once interested me.

Behind the apparent simplicity of the method of drawing a light source on a camera matrix, or a film, a trace left by it, the source, when moving in space, there are many difficulties. The main one of which is impeccable orientation. It would seem that it could be simpler: a stick, a stick, a cucumber, so the little man came out. However, even such art can cause difficulty in its implementation. It is only on paper that you can see the boundaries of the lines that serve as a guide for further writing. next element, so step by step, stroke by stroke, the conceived picture is recreated. When drawing with light, the same thing, only the lines drawn a second ago in space do not remain, there are no guidelines by which you could continue to draw the picture that has developed in your imagination. In the absence of experience, a dump of elements often comes out, or a dismemberment, on the contrary, of disparate components, and the viewer himself will have to turn on his imagination in order to understand what the author wanted to portray. And this is in a simple, what can we say about more complex figures born of the imagination. I confess that tricks with a flashlight caused me great difficulties.

But the process was captivating, and the periodically arising desire to add the magic of light to the frame did not leave me alone. I tried various lights, but most of all I liked the games with poi. I didn't play with them for long, twisting the wire on the last working ball former, I forgot about the freezelight for almost two years.

And somehow, flipping through the pages of your favorite magazine, I found an interesting post by d_a_ck9 , where a great idea was implemented, automatic image rendering. Previously, having seen photographs taken with the help of such devices, the question arose: HOW, how is this possible? I plunged into the search, found some schemes, I don’t remember now, then at the sight of them, I was shivering. This project seemed simple and I immediately caught fire with it, almost in the same way that a child is inspired by the sight of beautiful picture on the packaging of the Lego constructor demonstrating the possible result with proper assembly.

And so, having counted the trifle shaken out of the pockets, the purchase of equipment had to be done in several stages, as the budget was replenished. And the first thing I ordered was a board on the Arduino platform and an expansion board for reading SD cards, in fact, this is the brain of the device, it is he who will control the LEDs, setting the order of switching on, the intensity of the glow and the color for each of them separately.

I refused to buy from the officials, because of the high cost, compared with Chinese manufacturers, whose prices turned out to be the most democratic. Fortunately, the architecture of the system is open and, in fact, there should be no differences.

The heart of the device is the microcontroller.

The most expensive element was the LED strip. The LEDs in it are not simple, but gold, in fact, three are enclosed in one case at once - these are red, blue and green, as well as PWM drivers that control their brightness, 256 color gradations are possible for each of the channels.

The tape was ordered a little later. At that time, Arduino and the expansion board had already arrived, and it was time to try them out. And after agonizing expectations came the tape itself. Before proceeding to file processing, I once again tested the circuit and filed a small video, but after the final assembly I edited it a little.

He made the frame practically on his knees, having made a serious mistake, he did not draw a preliminary drawing and all the mistakes were revealed during the assembly process. In other matters, the gadget is not for sale or for an exhibition. I tried to make it convenient for transportation, but you can’t call it compact, it causes wary glances from passers-by.

The brush is still a little unfinished. First you have to figure out what to make a diffuser from. To the normal profile for led strip, which has a screen, my copy does not fit because of the silicone case, I had to replace it with a cable channel, but I haven’t figured out what to make the screen from yet. There are still a few things to be completed and corrected. Still, the device is working and these little things did not prevent field testing of the device. And I will show the results of the experiment with a Christmas tree garland nailed to the rail in the next post.

Just about the complex. Programs. Iron. Internet. Windows

Light effects on arduino. LED lamp with fire effect on arduino and flame control. Device control via household remote control

My Wishlist:

So.

Now about the sketch

We continue

Setting up my sketch

Look like that's it

Instruction

Algorithms

Color schemes

Instruction

Algorithms

Color schemes