Endowed with the perfect landing gear 250.

He is capable of the most complex maneuvers, moreover, he has a very high speed. It is achieved due to the small size, mass of the quadcopter and its increased power-to-weight ratio. Among other things, a small weight will not allow you to “kill” during falls and collisions. The inside of the device is protected by a carbon frame, which has high strength characteristics.

Manufacturers have provided self-installation LED lights on the quadcopter, which will allow you to make it unique and recognizable when participating in air racing.

For flying in FPV mode, a 800TVL video camera is provided in the nose of the model. Also on the top of the case it is possible to install a camera with HD quality, including GoPro. In appearance, the design of the quadrocopter resembles a full-fledged racing car.

From specifications The Walkera Runner 250 aircraft is worth noting for its already aforementioned low weight, which is only 530 grams in flight. And the overall dimensions are 225 by 205 millimeters with a height of only 92 millimeters.

A specially designed flight controller for this model is the FSC Runner-250, which shows operation with great accuracy, which allows the device to respond extremely accurately and quickly to transmitter commands and gain maximum speed instantly.

Li-Pol accumulator battery Quadcopter Runner 250 has a capacity of 2200 milliamp-hours. It provides a steady flight duration of approximately 14 minutes.

Also, this quadcopter can be controlled in the cold season. This is possible due to a wide temperature range: from -10 to +40 degrees Celsius.

The Walkera Runner 250 Race RTF comes pre-assembled, so all you have to do is take it out of the box and start flying. The package also includes: DEVO 7 radio remote control, charger USB device and Li-Pol rechargeable battery.

The only thing you need to buy is "finger" batteries for the DEVO7 transmitter. Also, if you wish, you can buy a better and more professional FPV camera. Many experts advise this model buy a GoPro now.

In addition, you can buy glasses that will allow you to watch flights from the first person in real time. More recently, after the release of the first episode of Star Wars, it seemed fantastic. However, now, but on a smaller scale, this dream can easily become a reality.

In general, this device is very good. Due to the low flight weight, it is also perfect for beginners in air racing. After all, to cause significant damage to this quadrocopter even during falls and collisions on top speed very difficult.

You can buy a drone in online stores for about 71,000 rubles.

Analog Walkera Runner 250 – Eachine Falcon 250

The closest brother to the Walkera Runner 250 FPV quadcopter is the Eachine Falcon 250. It is also a class 250 quadcopter.

This model also comes with special platforms, by installing which under the motors, you can achieve a maximum speed of the aircraft up to 150 kilometers per hour. They are installed at an inclination of 10 degrees in the direction of travel.

For convenience and a more comfortable flight, it is possible to install propellers with a maximum diameter of 6 inches.

Also worth noting is the built-in 700TVL resolution camera. Its angle of inclination can be changed. This allows the operator to have the most efficient view of the terrain. The viewing angle of the video camera is 127 degrees diagonally and 110 degrees horizontally.

The manufacturer announced a stable connection between the control panel and the FPV video camera at a distance of up to 1500 meters. Also, the video transmitter has the ability to broadcast the signal audio.

The quadcopter is controlled by six-channel Flysky equipment operating at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. Two channels always remain free. Also, the stability of communication during air racing is provided by a special automatic system AFHDS 2A corrections. It enables simultaneous flights of several copters in one place.

Specifications:

• Drone dimensions - 230 x 245 x 90 millimeters;
• Package size - 440 x 300 x 100 millimeters;
• Weight without battery and propellers - 408 grams;
• Flight weight - 535 grams;
• Packing weight - 1.85 kilograms;
• Propellers - 6 inch screws;
• Motor - 2206, 2208;
• Self-defense function - yes;
• Guide LED indicator - yes;
• The design is tailored for high-speed flight - yes;
• The ability to displace the protective housing for the motor - yes;
• ESC model - Fairy 20A, current voltage 20A, constant voltage - 30A;
• WEIGHT - no;
• Battery - 2-4S, Li-Po;
• The weight of the device is 7 grams;
• Size without switch - 2.8 x 1.5 x 0.6 centimeters;
• Special protection for motors - yes;
• Support for One Shot 125 - yes;
• Improvements - smaller size and lighter weight;
• The ability to upgrade the signal to 500 Hertz - yes;
• Prevention of rotor breakage - with the help of a special protective function;
• Motor - KV2300;
• Propeller bushing - 5-6 inches;
• Length - 32.2 mm;
• Diameter - 27.9 millimeters;
• Shaft - 3 mm;
• Weight - 25 grams;
• Flight controller - CC3D standard version, compatible with 2.4 GHz multi-receiver, pins are located at the bottom;
• Battery - 3S, 11.1V, 1500 milliamp hours, XT60;
• Camera 700 TVL - power supply - 3.6 - 5.5 volts;
• Power consumption - 60 milliamps at 5 volts;
• Image transmitter 1/3 CMOS more than 700 TV lines;
• Viewing angle - 127 degrees diagonally, 110 degrees horizontally;
• Built-in FPV tuner - yes;
• Video system - NTSC or PAL (you can choose on your own or set the PAL mode with the ability to jump to it automatically);
• Lens - 2.6 mm;
• The operating temperature of the chamber is from minus 20 to plus 70 degrees Celsius;
• Dimensions - 32 x 32 x 23.5 millimeters;
• Weight - 12 grams.

Characteristics of the FT200 VTX module;

• Module - Wideband FM Modulate;
• Video format - NTSC / PAL;
• Output power - 23-24 dB;
• Number of channels - 32;
• Operating voltage - 7-24 volts;
• Current voltage - 190 milliamps;
• Temperature for normal operation - 10 85 degrees Celsius: from 0 to 8;
• Audio transmission at a frequency of 6.5 megahertz;
• Input video signal level - 0.8 - 1.2 Vp-p;
• Input audio level - 0.5 - 2.0 Vp-p;
• Signal transmission distance - up to 300 meters (provided that the drone flies in an open area);
• Connector - RP-SMA Female;
• Antenna connection - RP-SMA Male, LHCP;
• Dimensions - 38 x 22.5 x 6 millimeters;
• Weight - 6 grams without antenna;

Transmitter Features:

• Channels - 6;
• Frequency - 2.4 - 2.48 GHz;
• Code type - GFSK;
• Sensitivity - 1024;
• Low threshold - 4.2 Volts;
• Charging port - absent;
• Antenna length - 26 millimeters;
• Weight - 392 grams;
• Power - 6 volts, 1.5 AA x 4;
• Dimensions - 17 x 89 x 19 centimeters;
• Online update - yes;
• Black color;
• Certificate - CE0678, FSS;
• Model memory - 20;
• Channels for receiving a signal - 5-6pcs;
• Unique ID for each transmitter - yes;
• Availability of automatic identification function - AFHDS2A.

iA6 flight receiver:

• Number of channels - 6;
• Model type - airplane with fixed wings;
• Frequency - 2.4 - 2.48 GHz;
• Weight - 6.4 grams;
• Power - 4 - 6.5 volts;
• Dimensions - 4 x 2 x 1.7 centimeters;
• Black color;
• i-BUS port - no;
• A user manual is included.

Equipment:

1. Frame - 1pc;
2. Motor base - 4pcs;
3. Motors - 4pcs (2204);
4. ESC - 4pcs (20A);
5. Flight controller - 1pc;
6. Propellers - 4pcs;
7. LEDs - 4pcs;
8. Battery 11.1 Volt, 1500 milliamp hours - 1 pc;
9. Camera 700TVL - 1pc;
10. Camera mount 700TVL - 1pc;
11. Antenna - 1pc;
12. Fly Sky transmitter - 1 pc;
13. Fly Sky receiver — 1 pc;
14. Bag — 1 pc.

It is better not to fly the Eachine Falcon 250 without special equipment (goggles, monitor). Because the drone is very difficult to distinguish against the sky and especially other objects when it moves away from the control panel. Plus, add to that crazy speed. The manufacturer promises 150 kilometers per hour. In practice, it turns out that the Falcon gives out no more than 115-120 kilometers.

And of course, flights should be made in the warm season, when the ground is dry. This will keep the quadcopter from getting wet on all digital boards that are not protected by anything, after a possible fall into the snow or mud.

The quadcopter has useful feature automatic stop of motors. This is necessary in case the drone suddenly falls into the grass and starts winding it on the propellers or rests them on the ground, which increases the likelihood of engine fire.

The second video camera is perfectly mounted on the top platform, which itself is fixed on vibration-damping plates. When flying fast, you need to take into account that the copter constantly rolls forward, so both cameras must be installed from the very beginning with the lenses up at a slight degree.

If the lower camera can be adjusted without problems, then something will have to be placed under the upper one. Otherwise, you will only record the appearance of the moving ground under the belly of your flying drone. The FPV camera has a very good field of view. If you fly with goggles, you can cover a huge area in front of the drone.

Attention. You can get a non-working single-cell battery in the kit. We advise you, when buying a quadcopter, immediately purchase a couple of suitable batteries. In order to save energy, you can turn off the LEDs on board the drone. The button to disable is located on the right side of Ichin.

Eachine Falcon 250

Semyon
I received this square very quickly. I ordered from Banggood. Delivered in just 18 days. He flew right out of the box, without any "dancing with a tambourine" there. FPV transmitter with Fatshark goggles didn't work for some reason. But then I found a button on the side that is responsible for changing channels, I pressed it and everything worked right away. The control equipment is from Eachine, although the advertisement stated that it would be a Fly Sky.

I tried to enter the menu - not ale, I thought it was broken. It turned out that you need to move the trim switches inward, towards each other, and the menu opens, such as protection or something. I really liked the square. The motors run soft and pleasant to the ear. Responds flawlessly to sticks. On 4S batteries it flies quickly, very good. I read that it is configured for dummies. Maybe so, but dummies learn to fly in stabilization mode. This mode does not have one. Acro…only acro. Today I crashed a couple of times ... without consequences. More like a cool device. I liked it very much, even exceeded my expectations.

Vyacheslav
I liked the build quality and material. The copter started right up. The first flight went great. The firmware has been updated to a new one. Chassis replaced by helicopter. The antenna mustache was pulled out and straightened at 90 degrees on plastic ties. In general, the purchase is satisfied.

Ali
Received my device just a week after ordering. Delivered by mail from DHL. Very well everything was packed and all spare parts and accessories were present as promised in the product description. In general, a great quadcopter, ready to fly immediately after unpacking, no need to configure anything, download and search the Internet.

The device works perfectly from a three-cell battery. Most likely, a four-cell battery can also be connected to it. The drone has a very strong body. He crashed into me several times and fell just at crazy speed, but escaped with minor scratches. I had to slightly change the camera angle, about 10 degrees, after which I got great control over the flight. I recommend it to all fans of flying in first person mode (FPV).

Rhyme
I purchased the remote control separately from the quadcopter. He perfectly approached this Ichin and even some other devices. Charger failed during the second battery charge. I hope that in fact the reason is in the indication, which has ceased to show the process of charging the battery.

The native controller of the copter is not made at a very high level. Later I found out that it was defective, and I had to buy another remote control. This helped improve flight control and overall flight control. If not for the broken control panel, then my impressions of Ichin would have remained at a higher level. So I had to repair the transmitter myself.

The best part about preparing a quadcopter for flight is that it does not need to be built from scratch. This saves the pilot from having to delve into the technical requirements and look for a bunch of information regarding his new purchase.

Craig

I am very happy with this purchase. All you need to do is just turn it on and launch it into the sky. I didn't find any instructions in the kit. For me it is very important because I am a beginner pilot and this is my very first quadcopter. I had to surf the Internet and bit by bit collect information on the takeoff of this drone. However, I got over it and am now flying the quad at high speeds quite confidently.

If you are going to buy this multicopter as a gift, be sure that it will work and all spare parts will be in place, so that later you do not have to deal with the seller and do not spoil your relationship with the birthday boy. I really liked that the SMA connector is inside the case - it makes it more secure. I have not seen this with other models, so this innovation caused me only delight.

The quad is very responsive and easy to control. Everything is quite simple and intuitive. The company really did not complicate the life of novice pilots with complex combinations of gear changes, for which many thanks to them. The case of the device looks very reliable and durable. It is immediately clear that it is made of high-quality material that will withstand more than one fall or crash.

This is a great racing machine, which also shoots and transmits excellent video quality. I think the drone is worth the money. I recommend it to both beginners and professional pilots.

Eachine Falcon 250 setup and assembly

In general, the racing drone is ready to fly immediately after unpacking. Before taking off, you just need to charge the battery, install it on the top platform of the device, attach the screws, the antenna with the camera and that's it. The copter is ready to fly!

To control the drone, you will need to install the Open Pilot 1502 firmware. CC3D version - you can install it on latest firmware BetaFly. If this fails, then they will install perfectly on the penultimate versions 2.1 and 2.2.

Assembling a quadcopter

As mentioned earlier, it is difficult to call this process a quadrocopter assembly. The fungus antenna must be screwed into a special sleeve located on the back of the drone, then take the Velcro strap and pull it through the body of the drone from the left side to the right side, or vice versa. It would also be better if the pilot gets a tape that has 3M tape on one side and fluffy material or small hooks on the other.

The fluffy side should be glued to the battery, the hooks to the frame. The battery is inserted into the loop of this strap, after which the strap is tightened so that the battery does not fly out. Now connect the board and battery connector (orange connectors).

To check whether the connection with the quadcopter is established, it is necessary to connect the control equipment to the power supply. To do this, insert 4 AA batteries into the rear connector of the remote control. Batteries, as a rule, will need to be purchased separately, as they are not supplied in the package.

Turn on the motors by pressing the left stick - the motors will start spinning. Now, while the propellers are not on, you can also check the auto-stop function of the engines in case of an accident. To do this, turn on the motors at low power and pinch one of the plastic containers on the beams with your fingers. If the engine stops spinning, then everything is in order.

FPV system test

This will require an Eachine monitor. The display should show an image that is transmitted by the main camera of the drone. Thanks to the CMOS system, the transition from bright to dark view and back will occur within 1 or even half a second.

Now you need to install the propellers that come with the kit (5045). Screw them into each of the motors and you will see that there is still enough space on top, so larger propellers (6045) can be installed in this drone model.

Benefits of the Eachine Falcon 250 Quadcopter

The Eachine quadcopter is equipped with an LED backlight, which allows the copter to remain in the field of view even in the dark.

The battery that the quadcopter is equipped with has a capacity of 1500 milliamp-hours.

Remote controller remote control equipped with an LCD display, which makes it as convenient as possible for settings. You can also update the firmware.

Of the technical characteristics of quadrocopters, it is worth noting its dimensions, which are somewhat similar to its counterpart from Walkera - 230 by 245 millimeters with a height of 90 millimeters. The weight is 535 grams, and the weight with packaging is about 1850 grams.

Like the previous model, this one comes fully assembled - you can simply open the box, insert batteries into the transmitter and start flying. Well, according to tradition, you will have to buy "finger-type batteries", because manufacturers never include them in their kit.

The price of such a device is much less and amounts to only 18,000 rubles.

Today, there is a lot of information on the Internet about how to assemble a racing quadcopter from which components and how, but all of it is overloaded with details and, in my opinion, can only scare away a beginner. In this article, we want to describe the instructions for "quick start" and help those who wish to start flying here and now with minimal cost.
The article will focus on assembling a quadrocopter from a simple set of components purchased on aliexpress. Basic set with minimum specifications today it really costs less than $70 and later it will be possible to continue to improve it by buying additional components. In addition to the kit itself, you will also need a battery and radio control equipment, which many already have. And even if they are not there, then having bought the RC equipment and batteries, you can use them not only for the quadcopter.
At the time of writing, our copter looks like this:

Features of racing quadcopters

This is a completely separate class of aircraft. Their main features include:

1. Small sizes. The name ZMR250 means that the device has a diagonal size of 250mm. Weight without battery and cameras about 370 grams
2. Minimum active stabilization
3. Focus on aggressive driving style and constant movement, not hovering in place
4. Can carry FPV equipment and recording action camera
5. Rugged design for multiple drops

From an engineering point of view, it is quite simple and provides maximum control to the pilot. It is not well suited for setting records for distance, duration or altitude. But it makes a great toy that will allow you to train your piloting skills.

Mandatory accessories

First of all, this is the frame itself, a set of propeller groups and a flight controller. I really think that at the initial stage it is easier to buy a ready-made kit and for a beginner (that is, for me) this is the most correct way. I took the cheapest set I found on aliexpress.

You will also need a battery economy with which the main difficulty. Flying requires lithium polymer batteries. The motors from the kit do not consume very much and we have enough batteries 2200mAx, 3S, 20-30C. If you already have similar batteries, then you can not buy others. If you do not have any, then it will be difficult to buy them on aliexpress. I would recommend purchasing batteries from trusted suppliers. For example, here are these.
They require a dedicated charger. The most popular is iMAX B6. Please note that it is not powered by the mains, but by a 12V power supply. You will also need an inexpensive tester to monitor the condition of the batteries.
Spending on batteries and charger is a separate article. They will last you a long time, and a good charger can easily charge many types of batteries, as well as make capacity measurements and cycle workouts.
The next separate cost item is radio control equipment. If you don’t have it, then it’s easier to immediately buy a kit that already includes control equipment. For example, this one.
If you still want to buy separately, then Radiolink and FrSky are very popular, thanks to the price / quality ratio. We use Turnigy 9x radio equipment.
When falling, these copters almost do not suffer, except for propellers. You need a lot of screws at once. We used these.

Assembling a quadcopter

First of all, you need to assemble the frame. Even on the general plans, it is obvious that it is going to be very simple.
Next, install the motors and speed controllers. First, see how they should be installed in the end, and then proceed to install the motors. "Front" of the aircraft at the top of the picture.

The most important thing that you can see in this photo is that the left front and right rear motors should rotate clockwise (they will be indicated by the black screw nuts). The right front and left rear motors should rotate counterclockwise and have a silver nut. In these nuts, by the way, the direction of the thread prevents them from unwinding.
Now let's talk more about connecting engines.
All this can be done in a simple way by soldering the wires of the motors and the speed controllers (ESC), but we decided to shorten them. To do this, first remove the heat shrink from all regulators.

On one side is the controller itself, and on the other side are the keys with a radiator. We unsoldered the standard wires, cut the motor wires to the desired length and then soldered them to the board.

At this point, it is necessary to check that the connected motor actually turns in the correct direction. Here's how to do it:

1. Remove the propeller from the motor, if one has been installed!
2. The frame conducts current, so keep the ESC isolated from the frame
3. Connect the speed controller to the gas channel of the receiver of the RC system and turn on the remote control
4. Lower the throttle stick to the down position
5. Connect the power to the ESC, observing the polarity
6. Add gas little by little until the engine starts to spin.
7. If the motor turns in the wrong direction, then any two motor wires must be swapped

After the performance of the engine is checked, you can put a heat shrink tube on the speed controller.

Please note that we did not use the power distribution board from the kit. We had in stock a thin foil fiberglass, from which we etched a simple switching board.

Simple Power Distribution Board - PDB

On this board, all the positive and negative wires of the speed controllers must be connected to the positive and negative wires of the battery connector, respectively. This board needs to be insulated, and we did it with regular nail polish:

The receiver of our equipment is quite large:

We decided to remove the case from it, unsolder the old wires from it and solder the wires from the engine directly to the board. In the first steps, it is easier not to do this in order to prevent unnecessary mistakes. Now we are ready to install the flight controller and connect the ESCs with receivers to it. When installing it, pay attention to the arrow indicating the "forward" direction.

The order in which the channels are connected to the receiver does not matter; this can (and should) be specified later during setup. It is only important to properly connect the power to the receiver. A cable with a connector for the receiver is included with the flight controllers. In this cable, the first wire should be black and should be connected to the negative power of the receiver. The second cable is red and must be connected to the receiver's power plus. Simply connect the rest of the wires in order to all channels of the receiver (at least the first four).
There is one more thing to do before connecting the regulators. These regulators have built-in regulators to power the flight controller and do not need to connect all of them at once. It is necessary to choose one and leave its connector for connecting to the controller unchanged, and on all the others, remove the middle wire and isolate it. See how it's done in the photo above.
The speed controllers are very easy to connect. Left front to the first channel, and then clockwise: right front to the second, right rear to the third and left rear to the fourth.
Now all the necessary elements are gathered together:

All that's left is to wear top cover. We immediately printed out a camera holder for our SJ4000. Silicone dampers must be duplicated with clamps, otherwise the camera will fly off the copter when it falls.

Setting

This is where some of the problems start. On the this moment the CC3D flight controller was no longer supported, and the native OpenPilot utility was no longer developed. Strictly speaking, quads based on Naze-type flight controllers are currently more profitable from this point of view.
But even this CC3D controller can still be configured without any problems using the Libre Pilot program. When connected to a computer Windows drivers none will be required.
Remove the screws from the aircraft and do not connect the battery. You don't need to connect to a computer either. Run the program:


This flight controller has relatively many possibilities, but we won't go into them now. Our task is to get a flying machine as soon as possible. To do this, the easiest way is to go through the steps of the setup assistant, so click on the top right icon "Vehicle Setup Visad" and you will see the warning again:


Once again we check that the propellers are not installed and click "Next".
The system will prompt us to connect the controller via USB and update the firmware of the controller. Do it.


The next step is to specify your hardware type. In our case, this is "PWM". Select the first item and move on.


Now we specify the type of our aircraft:


Next, we indicate the type of multi-rotor aircraft:


The next step is to specify the type of signal for the speed controllers. In my set there were regulators with a frequency raised to 490Hz.


At the next step, make sure that you have entered all the data correctly and click "next".


Now you need to perform the procedure for calibrating the sensors of the flight controller. Lay the quadcopter on a flat surface and click "Calculate". Keep the aircraft stationary during calibration.


In the next step, you are asked to make sure all screws are removed and the battery is disconnected.
Press "Start", connect the battery, wait for the motors to beep, disconnect the battery, press "Stop", again wait for the sound confirmation from the motors and disconnect the battery. Next, click "Next".


Again a reminder about the screws and the fact that the battery must be disconnected.


Click "Next" and the motor control signal setup will begin. Press "Start", connect the battery and move the slider in the lower left until the engine starts to rotate stably and then press "Stop". If you are sure that all motors and governors are the same, then you can check the box "Calibrate all motor outputs at the same time".


Now it is worth clarifying the type of our set of components. Yes, we have a Chinese QAV250 clone.


Click "Next" and the settings will be saved.


It remains to configure the receiver. First, select the type "Acro":


Next, select "Mode 2". We have equipment on which gas and steering wheel are on the left:


In the next step, the controls on the remote control in the program will move in turn and you will need to do the same. First, the throttle stick will move and you will also need to shake it up and down. Next, the right stick left-right, etc.


Set all sticks and trims to the center position:


Now you need to randomly move the sticks, changing all positions from minimums to maximums:


In the next window, you are prompted to make sure that none of the sticks is inverted, and if it is not, then fix it:


Finally check that everything is working correctly:


Now specify the way to "start" the engines. We have indicated an option in which it will be necessary to reject the left stick to the left and down to the stop. Shutdown timeout — 10s.


You can fly now. In the future, it will be useful to fully understand all the settings, but this is enough to fly.

This article is a squeeze from a huge flow of information studied in domestic and foreign forums, watched videos and read articles on this topic.

Hello to all who are interested in the topic of 250 class racing quads.

Today in our kitchen we will cook Minik. I will describe the process based on this assembly kit. You can take any other similar one, but there will not be big differences in the assembly.

Before starting assembly, supposed! that you already have a basic knowledge of quadcopters and you know what a flight controller, brushless motor, speed controller, LiPo battery and how to charge it. You have experience with a soldering iron, as well as the ability to install software and drivers on your computer. In any case, it will not be superfluous to read the MultirotorWiki.

Following this instruction, you will get a known flying machine. The flight qualities of which will exceed your abilities several times! What will serve as an excellent platform for you to develop flight skills.

Let's get started!

For assembly we need:
- assembly kit ZMR250;
- radio control equipment, preferably 6 channel or higher;
- LiPo battery 3S-1600mah 30C (pick up) ;
- connectors for connecting XT60 (pick up) ;
- GemFan 5030 screws (a lot!, 10 sets) (pick up) ;
- soldering iron and soldering accessories;
- hobby tools (screwdrivers, wire cutters, tweezers, knife, etc.);
- heat shrink (2, 3, 4mm) (pick up), thick double-sided tape, electrical tape, ties (small and larger), burdock-type Velcro.

Step 1 - ZMR250 Assembly Kit

We order a kit for assembly and after 20 ... 30 days we get just such a crumble.

It includes: the ZMR250 frame itself

4 motors MT1806 2280KV

4 Emax Simon K Series 12A motor controllers

CC3D Openpilot flight controller

CRIUS Distribution Board

Converter direct current UBEC 5V-3A

And small things: a vibro-platform, connectors, one set of screws.
Accordingly, if suddenly you do not yet have radio equipment, LiPo batteries and other hobby equipment (the same memory for LiPo), we order them too.

Step 2 - Putting the frame together

Assembling the frame is not difficult. The kit includes a diagram of its assembly. We collect strictly according to it.

Of course, there are options for assembling it in several forms, but we will assemble it according to the classical scheme.
We install the motors, they are fastened with the screws that come with the kit.

IMPORTANT! We have motors of different rotation! We put it so that with white nuts they stand on the right-upper and left-lower rays. And with black nuts on the upper-left and lower-right beams.

Everything, the frame is assembled, proceed to the electronics.

Step 3 - Preparing Regulators

We will assemble all the electronics by soldering, with the exception of the flight controller.
We start with motor controllers. We remove the heat shrink from them, cut it along the end, it will come in handy later.

We unsolder all the wires from them, except for the power wires.

At soldered signal wires, we remove the yellow core, and rearrange the red one to the edge of the connector. Of course, you can simply remove the red core, but then there will be two separate wires. And so, albeit a small one, but a train.

Due to the fact that we will power the electronics from an independent voltage converter and we will not need built-in regulators.
We solder the signal wires into place (already without the power wire), for one you can shorten them in place, about half the length.

We repeat this action with all motor controllers.

Step 4 - Installing the Electronics

For convenience, remove the top plate of the frame until the quadric is fully assembled.
Nothing complicated needs to be done with the power board. We glue two strips of double-sided tape to it and fasten it in the center of the frame.

I really soldered the power wires for connecting the battery, but as it turned out later - in vain. A flight controller will be attached from the top, and they will interfere here.
We solder the power wires of the motor controllers.
OBSERVE THE POLARITY CAREFULLY!!! If you make a mistake, everything will burn.

We solder the wires of the motors to the regulators. We do not observe any polarity here, we connect in any sequence.
IMPORTANT! Experienced comrades advise not to cut the wires of the motors very short, but to leave a margin and roll them into a ring. This can save the motors in the event of a hard crash.

We solder the voltage converter (two wires without connectors, red plus, black minus), this is the input, solder to the distribution board, plug the wire with the connector into the free channel of the Output block (observe the polarity, but if you mix it up nothing bad will happen, it just won’t work).
We install a connector for connecting a power battery, in our case it is XT60.
We wrap the motor controllers in the previously removed heat shrink (to prevent shorting through the carbon fiber of the frame plates), connect the receiver and you can make the first check by connecting the battery.

We first check the connection diagram !!!

The smoke did not go, the LEDs on the flight controller and receiver lit up, so everything is in order, we continue. We fix the flight controller, with two strips of double-sided tape on top, on the power board. You need to orient it so that the MiniUSB connector looks to the right.

We fix the power cable and the power converter with ties. Electrical tape motor controllers.

The signal wires of the motor controllers are connected in order, starting from the top left and clockwise, to the Output 1,2,3,4 connectors, respectively.

We connect the receiver with a cable that comes with the flight controller. It has 8 wires, black - minus, red - plus, the rest are signal. We connect them to the receiver in accordance with its pinout. The main thing is not to confuse plus and minus, signal wires can be connected in any order.

That's it, put the top plate of the frame, fix the receiver, receiver antennas and Velcro for the battery on it.

The quadric is assembled, it remains to program the flight controller and set up the equipment.

ATTENTION! Do not install screws full customization flight controller. They are set only after configuration and verification!

Step 5 - Setting Up the Flight Controller

Our flight controller OpenPilot CC3D, the program is used to configure it OpenPilot Ground Control Station (GCS). We need version 15.02. Newer ones no longer support this controller. Download from offsite and install on your computer. There are versions for all common operating systems.

We set up our model on the equipment: name - ZMR250, type - aircraft model (not a helicopter and not a glider), channels: 1 - ailerons, 2 - elevator, 3 - gas, 4 - ruder, 5 - three or two-position toggle switch (flight modes). Everything, nothing else needs to be configured on the equipment. Everything else will be configured in the flight controller.

To set up the flight controller, we need a computer with installed program OpenPilot Ground Control Statio, USB->MiniUSB cable, our assembled quad, battery and control gear.

Connect the quad to USB port computer (without a battery), run the program (in this order, this is important). Launch the settings wizard (big green button).

The configuration wizard starts and in the first window gives warnings that you need to remove the screws. We remove if you still put them and press the button Next.

On the second screen, we are offered to update the firmware. This action is optional, can be updated, can be skipped, button Next.

In the next window, the connection parameters with the flight controller are set. If you all followed my instructions, then the connection should already be, otherwise we try to select the desired connection from the list and connect the controller, button Connect. Connected, press the button Next.

In the next window, you need to select the type of connection with the receiver: PWM - one wire per channel; PPM one wire for all channels; S.BUS for Futaba and French; DSM sat - if you use a satellite from the Spectrum. In our case, we choose PWM and press Next.

Now we choose the type of our device, of course - Multirotor. Next.

In the next window, select the scheme, in our case Quadcopter X, Next.

Then we will be asked the type of motor controller, select RapidESC, press Next.

This screen calibrates the gyroscope and accelerometer. The quadric must be set on a horizontal surface (it is advisable to check it with a level), press the button Calculate, the calibration process starts, it goes on for some time (the progress bar moves), at this moment the quadric cannot be moved. The process is completed, click Next.

The next step is to calibrate the motor controllers. It is required to tick off that: all screws are removed; the quadric is not powered, but connected only via USB; you have read the instructions (the text above the checkboxes). Put a checkmark - the button is activated start. We press it (a signal corresponding to full throttle is sent to all controllers), we connect the battery, the motors emit calibration signals, we press stop(a signal is transmitted to the controllers - gas to a minimum), the motors squeak the end of the calibration. Moving on - Next.

On the next screen, we are again strongly recommended to remove the screws (where do they come from), but nevertheless, we remove them if they suddenly appear there and press Next.

On this screen, we calibrate the minimum throttle level. Need to press a button start and move the slider until the motor starts to spin. For one thing, we check that it is spinning in the right direction. We note if it rotates in the opposite direction, we will fix it later. We set the minimum speed, press the button stop and then Next.

In the same way, we repeat the procedure for the remaining motors.

After calibrating all the motors, we are offered to choose a configuration from those already available. Choose from the list ZMR250 Chinese QAV250 clone, press Next.

Everyone, they congratulate us on the end of the settings and offer to save, click big button Save, the recording process is in progress, the button is activated Next, press.

Step 6 - Hardware Setup

After writing the settings to the flight controller, Wizart prompts us to set up the equipment (a green button will appear), press. The hardware setup wizard starts.
A warning will appear that the quadric has been switched to the mode Disarmed Always. The wizard's welcome screen is displayed (they write that at any time you can go back a step Back or refuse Cancel). Click Next.

They ask the type of equipment, choose acro, press Next.

Choose stick configuration - Mode 2 (if you fly in another mode, choose her favorite), press Next.

Next, we will be asked to do certain actions with sticks. This will determine which channels are responsible for what.
In this case, they are asked to set the sticks to the central positions. Put in the centers and press Next and so on (we repeat exactly as shown on the screen).

The next screen asks you to check that everything works correctly and the movement of the sticks matches what is displayed on the screen. If not, then we invert the movement of drains with the corresponding checkmark. I had to invert Pitch. Checked, moving on Next.

Everyone, we are again congratulated on the victory, they offer to make sure once again that everything works as it should. Check, click Next.

A window opens with the ability to select the method of activation of the motors, it is usually recommended to select the Ruder to the right. After that, press the button Save(save settings).

Everything, the quadric and the app are configured.

Step 7 - There are a couple of nuances left!

The first. Remember, at the stage of calibrating the minimum speed, it was necessary to mark the motors that rotated in the wrong direction? It's time to take care of them. They need to change the direction of rotation. To do this, you need to swap any two wires for these motors. We unsolder any two motor wires from the speed controller, swap them and solder them back. I needed to solder the wires for two motors: the first and fourth.

Second. When installing the flight controller, we turned it 90 degrees for ease of adjustment. Now this must be specified in the settings. Open our setup program, go to the tab Config(bookmarks below) Attitude(left row of icons). In this window, the upper settings block Rotate virtual attitude relative to board it has a field Yaw, put a number there 90 .

After that, you can go to the tab flight data(tab below), this window displays real-time data from the flight controller. You can move the quadric, its virtual display should exactly repeat everything.

If everything is so, then we are great :)

Step 8 - First Tests

Test 1 We turn on the app, connect the battery to the quadric. We wait until the motor controllers are initialized (beep their signals), we activate the Ruder motors to the right (for 1 second) and try to give gas - the motors start synchronously and clearly respond to the movement of the gas stick.
Test 2 We take the quadric in hand, give half the gas and tilt the quadric towards any beam - the motor of this beam increases the speed, as well as all the others.

Step 9 - Preflight preparation

The quadric is set up and tested, you can put screws. Again, we observe the direction of rotation, if we haven’t remembered it yet, we look at the screenshot on which we selected the scheme of our Multirotor, it is clearly shown there.

We charge the battery, take the app, the quadric. We check that everything is tightened, the wires do not hang out. It does not hurt to take a battery tester with you (it will be possible to check the flight time). You can also take a small cardboard box with you, we will use it as a take-off platform (it is not convenient to take off from the grass).

Step 10 - Fly

ATTENTION! It is assumed that you already have the skills to fly a quadcopter (or other multi-rotor aircraft)!
If there are no skills, they must be acquired in advance! To do this, you can use a light quadric (for example Syma X5 or similar) or a computer simulator (for example HELI-X4, AeroSIM-RC or similar).

For the flight, we choose a small clearing, without people, trees, poles and other living creatures, and preferably with a soft lawn. We put our cardboard box in front of us (if there is a flat area, we use it), put a quadric on it, turn on the app, fix it and connect the battery. You can try to fly.

This is how my copy went.

This is his very first flight. As you can see, the quadric responds absolutely adequately to commands, very smart and dynamic.

And this is hard testing from Max (maks_dg)

The quadric itself can also be modified. Install a low battery indicator on it, a squeaker for searching. Well, and most importantly - FPV equipment, because it was created just for this - first-person flights. And not just flights, but races. But this is a topic for a separate article!

Thanks for reading! I hope the information was useful to you.

The topic of our forum for discussing miniks.

Now on the Internet you can find several useful tutorials (all links at the end of the article) on how to assemble a drone on a 250 frame yourself. But, while collecting my first quadric for these articles, I ran into problems that were not covered in any way. Namely: I did not find a complete list of parts and additional equipment that I need, the price of a complete assembly, as well as some practical and theoretical questions. That is why it was decided to make this article as a summary of my personal experience and other people's experiences to help beginners (like me) build their first drone as productively as possible.

Part 1 will be devoted to the selection of parts, equipment, assembly and connection of all components of the copter. The software side will be discussed in 2 parts.

Immediately report what I got:

It is noticeable in the video that the legs of the drone disappeared during the flight, but more on that later

FAQ List:

AT: Isn't it easier to buy a ready-made quadric and fly?
O: Easier, only if you are not going to keep improving your drone and building others. That is, you just want to fly, and not rack your brains and waste precious time. A store drone is in any case easier to learn and easier to operate. As an alternative, I can offer MJX Bugs 3. Review on it. Price from ~120$.

AT Q: Do I need to solder?
O: Yes need!

AT: Is it cheaper to assemble a quadric yourself than to buy in a store?
O: Not! I consider this a delusion. If you are a beginner, and since you are reading this article, most likely you are, then in addition to parts for a quadcopter, you will need a lot of other things. I am attaching a list below.

List to buy:

In order not to bother with the selection of the main components, I see an excellent alternative in buying a ready-made kit. Without wasting time on the selection of parts, you will get everything you need.

Everything you get in the kit. On the picture not connecting wires from the controller to the transmitter are shown

3) At least 2 additional sets of propellers (4 pcs included: 2 left, 2 right) ~0-100 rub.

Propellers really consumable during the first flights, so it is better to take with a margin. Oddly enough, but ordering from China is more expensive, and the wait is long. Maximum diameter 5 inches. I bought .

Batteries from Aliexpress. Both are out of order. The second jar failed for the left one, the third jar for the right one.

Left: battery for radio remote control with JR connector (black head). Right: Quadcopter battery

I highly advise against purchasing batteries from China: both batteries ordered by me failed, that is, they stopped producing the required voltage (one bank failed). Yes, perhaps it was a matter of chance, but there were no such problems with other batteries, and a savings of 150 rubles. not worth the risk.

Turnigy 9X with battery. Sits very tight, the lid closes

10) Soldering iron by itself.

Total cost ~ 11878 - 13217 rubles.

If you are surprised by the list, then it is worth noting that most of everything that you buy will serve you more than once.

I also want to note that prices are constantly changing, so I cannot guarantee the minimum cost for links. I'm sure you can find cheaper. I just shared sources one to one coinciding with mine.

Assembly

Frame assembly

There is a chance that a kit of parts will come to you without instructions for assembling the frame. So it was with me. If this happened, then we collect the picture or video. At this stage, you should not tighten all the screws in the "combat mode", you may have to disassemble the frame more than once. At this stage, it is not worth screwing the upper part at all; without it, it is more convenient to work with the insides of the copter. Also, do not forget about the washers, which I wrote about above.

Let's not forget the pucks. Of course, you don’t have a white plate - these are the very remnants of 3D printed legs

Motor installation

A very simple operation, if you remember about the direction of rotation of the motors. Decide where you will have the front. Motors with a black nut, rotating clockwise, we put in the front left and rear right places.

Pay attention to the location of the engines

Motor mount

Soldering

Distribution board soldering

So, you have already tried on and decided how everything will be installed for you. Solder time. When soldering the board The most important thing is to observe the polarity! It doesn't matter which places to solder the wires to, it all depends on how you are going to install the board.

Solder the regulators and power wires. We observe polarity. (My version)

Solder the regulators and power wires. We observe polarity. (Another variant)

Solder regulators to motors

First of all, we remove the standard red heat shrink from the regulators. In order for the motors to rotate in the direction we need, the regulators to the motors should be soldered like this:

Connecting regulators to motors

I think that you have a question: where to put the long wires from the regulators. They can be soldered and removed completely, or they can be cut to the desired length. The second method is preferable for beginners, as there is less chance of overheating the regulator when soldering.

Fully soldered standard wires of the regulator. I don’t advise you to do this, it’s better to just shorten the wires (do not pay attention to the location of the wires, the picture was taken to show something else. The correct diagram is on top)

Solder the T-connector. Polarity matters!

We fix the power board, speed controllers

Time to fasten. Remember that the frame of the quad is conductive, so the board must be insulated from it. I put it on two layers of double-sided tape, pulled it from one end with a clamp, and then secured it with an elastic band.

We fix the fee. Two layers of double-sided tape + clamp + elastic band

I hid the speed controllers in heat shrink, put them on double-sided tape, tightened them with clamps and, to be sure, tightened them with an elastic band. Looks more than safe

We fix the regulators. Heat shrink + double-sided tape + clamps + elastic band

We fix the flight controller, receiver

Double-sided tape and rubber bands come into play again. Again, the tighter you fasten, the better.

I have it done like this:

Fasten the flight controller (1). Grass left after the crash

Attaching the flight controller (2)

Fix the receiver. Butt he also sits on double-sided tape

We connect everything with wires

Flight controller controls

From each of the regulators we have 3 wires. You need to do the following: on three of the four regulators, you need to pull the red wire out of the connector. You need to connect the wires to the controller in a certain order, this will be discussed in the next part.

On three of the four regulators, you need to pull the red wire out of the connector

Receiver to flight controller

And here the order of connecting the wires to each channel is not important. You just need to connect the power wire correctly - the white wire is closer to the side with the sticker.

Connect the receiver to the flight controller. The power wire should be located white closer to the side with the sticker

We fasten the upper part of the frame, look what happened

I also added a "camera mount".

"Camera mount"

Total:

About falls and what to do while waiting for the package

Be prepared for some falls first. And this: broken propellers, legs and camera in my case.

broken legs

Broken camera. By the way, I advise you to additionally seal the connector with a flash drive with adhesive tape, there is a chance of loss if it falls

Here is a video from my very first flight.