What boy does not admire such constructions as airplanes? Do-it-yourself aircraft models made from ceiling tiles are a great gift for children who are fond of aviation. Especially if they took part in the assembly of the airframe. The article will tell you how to make a simple airplane model from ceiling tiles.

aircraft modeling

Aircraft model building is a popular activity. technical sports, which is of interest to schoolchildren, students, workers and engineers. At the same time, everyone chooses for himself a class of aircraft models that meets his interests.

In aircraft modeling, three rather large groups of aircraft models are distinguished, presented in the table:

Model class	Peculiarities
	In such models, the intervention of the designer is impossible during the flight. All adjustments and settings of the aircraft are completed when it is launched. They can be: - non-motorized - gliders; - with the simplest, very small, internal combustion engine, which is attached to the body with an elastic band. The motors on the models work for several seconds to throw the light-winged structures up to a hundred meters up, and then they smoothly descend. Timers or special clock mechanisms are used to turn off the engine and transfer the steering wheel to planning.
	With such models, the athlete controls wire threads, which are called cords. The vehicles fly in a circle with a diameter of about 40 meters. The “pilot” is located in its center with a control stick. When the handle is pulled towards you, the elevator is deflected, and the device obediently flies up. And the deviation of the handle from itself causes the model to decrease. The devices are: Aerobatic, able to perform all aerobatics. High-speed, developing speed up to 300 km per hour. Racing, combining efficiency, reliability of engine start, serviceability and high quality in flight.
	Controlled remotely, without wires. To do this, there is a set of radio equipment, which includes a transmitter, in the hands of the operator, and a receiver with steering mechanisms mounted on board the model.

Aircraft model device

Tip: Before you make an airplane out of ceiling tiles, you need to get acquainted with its design.

The device of all models is very similar. The main components of the radio-controlled aircraft model are shown in the photo.

It:

• Fuselage. This is the basis of the entire model, on which are attached:

1. bearing structures;
2. tail section;
3. chassis.

Installed inside:

1. engine;
2. aircraft control equipment: receiver, steering controls, batteries.

• Wing. Serves to create lift. The wing keeps the model in the air.
• ailerons- control surfaces located on the rear end of the wing and deviate up or down in antiphase. They allow the aircraft to tilt left and right.
• Tail unit. It consists of a vertical part - the keel, and a horizontal part - the stabilizer. This device provides the aircraft with stability so that it can fly straight and level, without tumbling in the sky, randomly changing the direction of its movement.

A rudder is mounted on the rear end of the keel.

• Chassis. Allow the model to take off from the surface and then land on it.

Tip: If there is no landing gear, the model should be started from the hands, and the aircraft should be landed “on its belly”.

• Engine. Creates movement for the model, allows it to gain the desired height, and then maintain the specified speed.
• Tank. Serves for the fuel needed to run the engine.

• Receiver. Receives the transmitter signal, amplifies it, processes it. And then transfers to steering machines.
• Steering cars. Convert the signal coming from the receiver into the movement of the model's rudders through the connected rods.
• The receiver and the machine are powered from the onboard battery. Usually these are four "finger" elements.

Model selection

Tip: When choosing to make an airplane from ceiling tiles with your own hands, it is necessary to ensure, first of all, the reliability of taking off and landing, and then satisfying aesthetic needs.

The aircraft model must have the following properties:

• Be stable: keep well in the air without much pilot input.
• It is easy to repair, which is provided by model aircraft from ceiling tiles.
• Sufficient strength, but without sacrificing flight qualities: withstand hard landings, and fly well.

We do it ourselves

For work you will need tools and materials:

Making any design, including an aircraft model, with your own hands begins with the development of drawings. To do this, you can use the services of specialists or copy them from sites by printing templates on a printer or drawing to size.

After printer:

• Printouts on A4 sheet formats are laid out on a flat surface in serial numbers. The result should be an image of the elements of the aircraft in full size.
• All the necessary sheets are glued together.
• When gluing sheets without violating the dimensions and geometry of the future aircraft.
• Cut lines are marked by connecting special crosses drawn at the corners that define the boundaries of the image.
• The resulting drawings of aircraft from ceiling tiles with structural fragments are connected, glue is applied to the uncut edges of the sheets, and all parts are carefully glued together so that their joints match very exactly.

• This is how all fragmented elements of the model are glued together.
• Paper templates are cut with scissors.

Manufacturing of blanks

From the ceiling tiles, according to the prepared templates, blanks are cut out for assembling the aircraft.

Tip: To prevent the sheets from moving off the tile, they must be fixed to the surface of the material with glue. After the end of the markup, the glue does not have time to dry and the paper is easily removed without damage for further use.

• To mark a simple part, with straight lines, it is enough to pierce all its corners with a needle.
• Remove the stencil and using a ruler from adjacent puncture points on the tile, cut through the material with the tip of a knife.
• The ruler is shifted to the next neighboring points, until the complete cutting of the part is completed.
• A workpiece of complex shape with rounded sides can be completely cut out according to the template.

• Each part is desirable to be marked, to facilitate its appointment, according to the assembly drawing.

Aircraft assembly

Before proceeding with the assembly of all the parts, it is better to watch the video.

The aircraft assembly technology can be roughly described as follows:

• Double partitions are glued together, consisting of several parts, which increase their strength. For example, fuselage partitions.

Tip: Titanium glue should be used for work, its price is the most affordable for beginner modellers. It is more convenient to apply glue with a syringe without a needle, using it as a dispenser.

• To ensure that the ends of the cut parts are even, they are cleaned with sandpaper.
• The side of the fuselage is placed on the table so that the front side is outside the aircraft. All mounting holes are cut on it.
• For this part, the same holes are made on the second half of the fuselage.
• Glue is applied to the glued side of the blank of the front partition of the compartment and the part is pressed into place. After spreading the composition on the mating part, the workpieces are separated and left to partially dry the glue, for about 30 seconds. The parts are again connected and pressed with a force of about 10 seconds.
• When assembling the aircraft, it is necessary, if necessary, to adjust the dimensions of the battery compartment, constantly checking the squareness of the joined parts with a square or ruler.
• So gradually all the partitions of the fuselage are assembled.

• After installing all the partitions, the second fuselage sidewall is glued.
• The nose of the aircraft and the mounting of the frame under the engine are being completed.
• The upper part of the fuselage is installed.
• The tail blanks are glued together. At the same time, reinforcement from reinforced tape is immediately laid to fix the rudder and toothpicks for rigidity.

• The gluing is clamped with a board and clamps, which will ensure even gluing.
• The tail is glued into place.
• The vertical of the elements is controlled and strictly maintained.
• The elevator parts are glued together. At the same time, a bamboo skewer and adhesive tape are laid inside to fix the steering wheel. For the reliability of gluing the halves of the ceiling, the adhesive tape can be perforated with holes.
• The elements are compressed with a board and clamps, and left for about a day until the glue dries completely.
• The edges are ground with sandpaper or a stone at an angle of 45 °, which will allow them not to rest against each other when the planes of the model are tilted.
• The wing is assembled, lines are marked on it for gluing stiffeners, ribs, spars.

• A wooden axis or spar can be made from a wooden ruler 50 centimeters long.
• The spar rail is glued.
• The joint in the center is reinforced with two small slats.
• Styrofoam strips are glued on.
• The desired shape of the wing plane is set. To do this, the material of the substrate or ceiling is rolled on a piece of pipe.
• Glue is applied to all mating elements and final gluing is performed. The wing is fixed by any accessible way: cargo, clothespins, adhesive tape.

• The small dents formed from the clothespins are sanded with sandpaper.
• In the center of the wing, the cavities are closed, inserts are glued.
• After the glue dries, the ailerons are marked. In this case, it is necessary to additionally look at the node in the light, so as not to get on the partition.
• They are cut on both sides with a cutter, the finished aileron is removed.
• Opened cavities are sealed with strips of tiles.
• Ailerons can be glued immediately with reinforced tape or later, before the main fitting of the aircraft model.
• The front part of the wing can be reinforced with reinforced tape.
• The whole model is covered with adhesive tape, which serves for beauty, and most importantly, gives the structure greater strength, which will allow the product to withstand falls.
• The adhesive tape is smoothed with a warm iron, which will permanently attach it to the ceiling tile.
• A slot is made in the body of the aircraft into which the wing is installed.
• Servo machines are installed on the wing. To do this, the elements are applied and outlined with a marker, a seat is cut out.
• The wires are pulled with a homemade wire hook.
• On the contrary, horns are mounted on the ailerons and connected to the servos with a rigid wire.
• Two servos are installed in the fuselage of the aircraft, for the rudder and elevator.
  For fixing, it is better to use double-sided tape, glued to all contact areas of the servo.
• The elements are installed in place and the supporting walls are additionally glued. They are laid from a rigid wire of thrust to the rudders.
• A frame is made for mounting the motor.
• Thin plywood is glued from the motor mounting side, bolts will be screwed into it for fixing.
• The frame for the motor is glued into place.
• The motor driver is mounted in front of the fuselage, wires are brought out through the ventilation window and connected.

Car modeling, motor glider, foam planes. Motor installation

• The direction of rotation is checked.
• The fairing is put in place and fastened with adhesive tape.
• To strengthen the installation site of the wing, it must be fixed by gluing plywood or thin shingles.
• The receiver is placed, and all the wires are assembled from all the electronics.
• The bottom of the fuselage is glued, a hatch for mounting the battery is cut through.
• The total weight of the model is approximately 450 grams.
• You can fly over a model aircraft. The video will show you how to do it.

Assembling airplanes from ceiling tiles is the easiest option that a novice aviation enthusiast can do if desired. The main condition is to do everything carefully, adhering to the assembly technology, but it is better to take the advice of a specialist.

Here's what we did (video)

It is considered one of the easiest to fly, therefore it is suitable for a beginner model pilot and can be used as a trainer, that is, as the first model for flight training.

For the manufacture of a model aircraft, the following materials are needed:
Flat ceiling tiles or underlay for laminate, 3-5 mm thick.
Ceiling glue, this is Titanium or any of its analogues, a 5-10 ml disposable syringe.
Adhesive tape of different colors, glue for paper.
A piece of thin but rigid wire, for example, a piano string, a wire for a semi-automatic welding machine, diameter D = 0.8-1mm.
A flat base for working with a knife, such as a sheet of plexiglass, a laminate board.

Required spare parts:
Receiver and transmitter for 4 teams or more.
The motor is electric for an airplane at 1100 rpm or more.
Servos 5-9 grams 4 pcs.
LiPo battery for 12 volts 1000-2000 mAh. 1 PC.
Propeller size 8040-9060.

Required tools:
Knife modeler or clerical with spare blades.
Metal ruler 50-100 cm.
Sandpaper, emery bar (stone).

Item 1. Preparation for work.
First you need to find it on the Internet, or take it here ( (downloads: 4685)) drawings of the aircraft model itself, then print them on a printer in A4 sheet format.

Spread the resulting printouts on a flat surface in accordance with serial numbers, the result should be a linked image finished elements aircraft.

Now you need to glue the necessary sheets together. For the correct gluing of sheets, so as not to violate the dimensions and geometry of the future aircraft, it is necessary to cut off the extra edges on each sheet of the drawing, for the convenience of determining the cutting lines, special border crosses are drawn at the corners, it remains only to decide which side we will cut, connect the two corner crosses with a line and get cutting line.

After removing the extra sides with scissors, we connect the resulting fragments of the drawing together, evaluate how well everything fits together, after which you can apply glue to the uncut edges of the sheet and glue it.

The joints must match very precisely.

Thus, we glue all the fragmented elements of the drawing. The result should be seven glued and two single sheets (for the Cessna182 drawing).

Point 2. Cutting blanks.

Now you can lay out a "sandwich" from the substrate and the drawing. For the convenience of holding the sheet on the substrate, you just need to glue it a little with glue with a pencil. During further manipulations, it will not have time to dry completely and therefore the paper (stencil) from the finished part will be easily removed without being damaged at all for reuse.

Next, you can do different ways who likes it better.

If the part is simple, with a large number of straight lines, then it is enough to mark all the corners of the part with needle punctures, then remove the stencil paper and apply a ruler from the puncture point to another point, make a cut with the knife edge, then shift the ruler to the next points and so on until you complete complete cutting of the part.

If the part has a complex shape, with rounded sides, then you can immediately cut it using a stencil and completely cut out the workpiece.

In this way, all the details of the aircraft model are cut out. If you are making your first model, you should lay out or mark each of the parts so that you can easily determine its purpose from the drawing.

Point 3. Gluing the body of the aircraft, assembly.
You can start by gluing double partitions, that is, consisting of several identical parts glued together for extra strength.
Like this fuselage baffle.

Glue we will use Titanium, as the most affordable for most beginner modellers, and for applying glue it is convenient to use a syringe without a needle, fill it with glue and use it as a convenient dispenser.

The cut parts are not always smooth enough, this can be easily corrected with sandpaper.

Now we take one side of the fuselage, lay it with the correct side on the table so that the laminated side is outside the aircraft. We cut out all the docking and mounting holes in the sidewall, then we put the second half and copy the same holes on it.

We take the front partition of the compartment, apply glue to the glued side of the workpiece and press it to its installation site, move the workpiece slightly in different sides so that the glue is well smeared and again we separate the blanks for the glue to dry for 10-30 seconds. (to speed up, you can wave, blow), then reconnect the parts and press with force for 5-10 seconds.

Now you can let go and deal with other blanks, periodically checking how the first blank is glued and, if necessary, press it again.

In the process of building an aircraft, it is important to keep track of such things as the size of your battery in time (it may be larger than planned in the drawing) and accordingly independently adjust the dimensions of the compartment if necessary, constantly check the perpendicularity of the parts to be glued, do it with a square or ruler.

This is how all the partitions of the front, middle and rear parts of the fuselage are assembled in stages.

When all the partitions are installed, you can glue the second side of the fuselage.

We finish the muzzle and mount under the engine mount.

We install the upper part of the fuselage with a slot for the tail (rudder).

We glue the tail blanks, immediately lay reinforcement from reinforced tape for attaching the rudder and toothpicks for rigidity.

We clamp the gluing with a board and clamps for even gluing.

As a result, everything is smooth and toothpicks do not stand out.

Glue the tail into place.

We always check and maintain a strict vertical.

We glue the details of the elevator, inside we also lay a bamboo skewer and adhesive tape for attaching the steering wheel, we perforate the adhesive tape with holes for better gluing of the halves of the ceiling.

We also squeeze the board and clamps until the glue dries completely, for about a day.
We grind the edges at an angle of 45 degrees, so that when the planes are tilted, they do not rest against each other, it is convenient to do this with a simple stone, bar or sandpaper.

We make a wing, mark lines on the wing for gluing stiffeners, ribs, spars.

A wooden axis (spar) is usually made from a 50 cm wooden ruler; if you have a circular saw, you can simply dissolve the board into shingles and then cut it to the desired size.

First, glue the spar rail.

In the middle, we reinforce the joint with two more small slats.

Then we glue the foam nevryura.

To glue the upper plane of the wing, the material of the ceiling or substrate must be prepared, rolled on a piece of pipe to set a preliminary bend of the desired shape, after which glue can be applied to all contacting elements and final gluing can be done. Fixing the wing for the time of setting the glue, you can use any of the available ones, cargo, clothespins, adhesive tape.

Small dents in the clothespin field can be sanded with sandpaper.

In the central part of the wing, we close the cavities, glue the inserts.

After the glue has completely dried, mark the ailerons, additionally focus on looking at the clearance so as not to get on the partition.

We cut through the cutter on both sides, take out the finished aileron.

All open cavities are sealed with strips of tiles.

Ready-made ailerons can be immediately glued using reinforced tape or left for later, until the main fitting of the entire model with adhesive tape.

The front of the wing can also be reinforced with reinforced tape.

Now you can cover the entire model with tape, this is not only for beauty, but to a greater extent to give strength, now the model will be able to withstand small drops and bumps.

We smooth the adhesive tape with a warm iron, this procedure will finally bake it to the foam, but for the first model this is not necessary.

To install the elevator wing, you need to make a slot in the body and push the wing into place.

We install servos on the wing. To do this, we apply and circle them with a marker, then cut out the seat. We stretch the wires and fasten the servos into place on double-sided tape. On the contrary, horns are installed on the ailerons and connected to the servos with a rigid wire.

This article is the story of someone who has never done RC before, who wants to show beginners who decide to build their first aircraft from balsa that it is not difficult. The article is not an instruction for construction, but only a description of my own experience. I apologize in advance if I made a mistake in terms somewhere.

background

It all started with the fact that for my birthday (at the age of 28) I was presented with a radio-controlled model of an airplane with equipment and with the opportunity to take a couple of aerobatics lessons from knowledgeable people.

The instructor was surprised how quickly I got used to the controls (how would he know that I flew MS Flight Simulator a lot?). It was a training model, and I soon got bored with it, I wanted something faster.

I ordered an Extra 330L on the Tower, and, alas, on the very first flight I stuck it with my nose into our planet. The fuselage crumbled to the very tail, the trailing edge of the left wing console cracked, the ailerons tore out, all the plastic parts cracked and deformed. Annoyance knew no bounds! And I wanted to fly.

I laid out the chips and debris on the table and assembled a puzzle out of them (puzzle, that is). This puzzle has been measured and drawn on a computer. At the same time, I also learned AutoCAD. Since I was a complete ZERO in aircraft construction and had no idea how and what was attached, I had to compose each part in 3D and combine one with the other on a computer. So it turned out a three-dimensional drawing of this aircraft.

I gave the complex parts for laser cutting, I cut the simple ones myself with a scalpel. The aircraft was 100% restored. Involvement in the crash was given out by cracks in plastic parts.

But then I got tired of the behavior of the model. The dimensions are small (80 cm span), the weight is large (715 g), and the thrust is rather weak (Super Cobalt 400 on 8 cans of 1050 mAh with a 7x4 propeller). Experiments with changing the propeller only reduced the flight time from four minutes to three. The barrels twist, but the loops do not want to. Apparently, it's time to want another plane. But not to buy, but to build.

Model selection

I wanted something beautiful, similar to my Extra, but bigger. The main criterion was ease of construction, or at least I had to understand HOW to build, looking at the selected drawing. Internet searches led me to a simple drawing of Ampmaster_jr by Al Eastman.

The drawing is not very detailed, but is accompanied by a description of HOW to build it. I liked this plane. Similar to Extra; the cockpit is almost at the trailing edge of the wing, and this makes it possible to make a huge hood for access to the batteries; ground for an electric motor. Reading the description revealed the fact that the author determined the dimensions of the aircraft by the length of the rail he had under the wing spar. I didn’t have such rails and boards! There were others...

Change of design for available materials

The drawing was super simple. There were no gaps between the control and bearing surfaces, shelves for equipment, chassis mounts, etc. It was more like a diagram than a drawing. Reviews and articles by those who have already made this aircraft have revealed its shortcomings. So, the CLARK Y profile used (flat from below, and convex from above), although it gave the wing a large lifting force, but had a negative effect on acrobatic qualities; zero V of the wing with such a difference between the root and final chords affected the increased stall speed; those who made the aircraft larger than the original spoke of a noticeable improvement in flight performance. I could not miss such important remarks and figured out my possibilities for changing the original design.

So. CLARK Y is easily changed in the Profili2 program, it will also generate a set of ribs. V wing is formed by gluing the consoles. What about the dimensions? I look at the longest monolithic part in the aircraft: No. 1 - a one-piece spar of both consoles; No. 2 - balsa board along the fuselage. A one-piece spar does not fit (I don’t have such long rails), but there is a board 1 meter long. I draw this board on top of the drawing, and enlarge the drawing so that the length of the fuselage is one meter. Everything else has also increased, including the thickness of the rails, which already seemed too thick to me - 6 mm. Therefore, on top of the drawing, I draw my 4 mm rails, I decided to leave 6 mm on the stabilizer.

So, I got my drawing, and the layers on which the original was, I deleted without a twinge of conscience. I drew my own frames to fit under my pre-purchased cockpit (canopy). I also drew the mount and blowing of the motor, based on specifications previously ordered AXI 2820/10.

I entered the necessary measurements from the received drawing into Real Flight G2. This simulator showed the true behavior of my existing Extra, so I have every reason to trust this program. The plane turned out to be very fidgety, but shifting the center of gravity 2 cm forward solved this problem. The Motocalc7 also rated the performance well with my choice of powerplant (40A ESC, 10 cell 4/5 FAUP SANYO, AXI 2820/10, 10x6 - 12x6 Aeronaut propellers).

For a 10x6 propeller, Motocalc7 considered the model to be suitable for "virtually all aerobatic maneuvers"

Cutting with a laser beam

After struggling with the thoughts “Maybe another plane? What if this one doesn't fly well? I started materializing the digital drawing into a tree. I identified those details in the drawing that required special accuracy and accuracy, placed them on the drawn boards and went to cut.

The process of setting up a laser cutter (5 parameters and 100 values ​​each) cost me a lost day, several sheets of burnt balsa, several dozen lost nerve cells from communicating with the owner laser machine, which in the settings did not understand anything. But the deed is done. How I cut plywood for his Extra before is a mystery. Maybe there were no problems because plywood is more fire resistant than balsa?

At home, I assembled the consoles on the floor, to estimate how it would look, and ... came by accident. The next day I again talked with the owner of the laser machine...

Scalpel cutting

Patience was enough to crookedly cut one rib. Round holes and protruding supports were especially difficult. After evaluating the time and effort spent, I reconsidered my attitude towards the owner of the laser machine.

It is difficult to cut precise ribs, but it is not difficult to cut straight battens from balsa planks. At the same time, he adapted to cut corners to obtain a triangular joint in the ailerons.

Test on the stabilizer and keel

So, I had everything ready to assemble. We need to start, but where? From simple! From what can be broken and remade. For me it turned out to be a stabilizer and a keel. From photographs from the Internet, I saw that many parts of the model are assembled directly on the drawing laid out and fixed on the table. For greater adhesion of the rails during gluing, it was necessary to make grooves. It is not hard. I made transverse incisions with a scalpel to a depth of 1-2 mm. It turned out that 1 mm is enough for strong gluing, and a groove of 2 mm reduces the strength of the rail in this place.

When assembling the stabilizer and keel, I got the hang of gluing with cyacrine and observing parallels. The tail unit turned out to be worthy of me breaking it down and making it again. An analysis of the errors showed: do not rush, measure seven times and cut evenly, take into account the rate of cyacrine polymerization; sandpaper is the friend of precision.

Wing making

If everything was clear with a flat stabilizer, then how to assemble a non-flat wing, and even with so many fragile parts? I knew two ways: assembly on props (building tabs); and assembly on rails (jig holes). When generating ribs in the Profili2 program, I took into account both methods, that is, I marked the holes for my 4x4 mm rails and marked the supports along the trailing edge of the wing, but so that these supports did not crawl out into the aileron area. I also made the width of the ailerons, based on the presence of balsa triangular boards in section. I took into account the thickness of 1 mm balsa coating (skin), and made grooves for the spar at 30% of the chord. This place coincided with the highest point of the profile.

An interesting point: the rib that was at the intersection of the wing with the fuselage was imported into AutoCAD, and based on it, a cutout was made in the fuselage frame. And the rib itself was supplemented with an area to the bottom of the fuselage and was cut from 4 mm balsa, and not from 1.5 mm, like all other ribs.

The construction of the wing on the rails required an additional structure, which I did not have, and after I also stepped on the structure assembled on the rails, breaking 4 ribs, I came to the conclusion that this method was not for me.

The assembly began with the fact that I attached the spar rail to the drawing with pins, marked the shrinkage points of the ribs with a marker, made three more duplicates of this marked rail and proceeded to shrink. The exact straight vertical was provided by squares previously purchased for this purpose. And I observed the longitudinal deviation of the ribs along the lines in the drawing.

A drop of super-fast (thin) cyacrine seized the joint of the rib with the spar rail so quickly that the support from the previous one was released for gluing the next rib. After all the ribs were seated on the first spar rail, I stuck the second rail into the grooves of the ribs from above. Thanks to the provided vertical of each rib, the grooves coincided with the marked places on the rail. A drop of cyacrine at the joint and under the load to avoid wing twist at this stage.

The trailing edge I cut out of 6 mm balsa sheet with a width equal to the height of the rear edge of the rib, plus 2 mm for the skin. Attaching to the drawing and marking the joints, he made grooves of millimeter depth - ribs will enter them. After checking that all the grooves matched, I built props from the table to the bottom of the trailing edge. This height is different at the root and end chords, since the wing profile is not constant. With the trailing edge firmly seated on these supports and driving the ribs into the grooves, I dropped a little cyacrine on each joint.

The leading edge was glued in the same way and with the same skin of 2 mm, only even easier, since the experience of gluing the trailing edge was already there. To avoid twists and deflections, I pinned the entire structure with pins to a straight board and wrapped it with threads, pulling them tightly.

While the wing was dry, I started making the spar seal (webbing). Its role was to provide additional bending and torsional strength to the wing. These were jumpers between the upper and lower rails of the spar. They were cut from 2 mm balsa so that the fibers were vertical.

After the seals were glued in, I left the fender to dry under weight overnight. Checking for possible deformation revealed no signs of twisting and deflection, the consoles turned out to be surprisingly smooth!

When generating with the Profili2 program, it was taken into account that the wing would be covered with a 1 mm layer of balsa. To save balsa, weight and adhere to assembly technology, I cut out pieces that were supposed to cover 30% of the front of the wing. I covered the rest back and cut the jumpers connecting both skins along the ribs. The front and rear parts of the skin are equal to the height of the rails.

Fuselage manufacturing

The experience of restoring the Extra 330L gave me an idea of ​​how to build a fuselage.

According to the drawing, I cut out two sides from 4 mm balsa with a scalpel.

On one of them I glued the frames in the same way as the ribs to the spar (see above). Next, I easily, like a LEGO designer, assembled the shell of the hood and battery shelf.

At the time of gluing the longitudinal rails, an error was found in the cutout for them on the oblique frame. The file helped. With the same file, I adjusted the cutout for the wing so that the wing and fuselage fit perfectly.

The bottom of the nose was not thought out at the time of drawing the drawing. I made it from the remains of balsa, lightened with orom round holes. Also, in place, thought out a way to snap the hood cover.

Cover color selection

A long time ago I saw a black plane in some RC magazine. Looked very nice! The sky was reflected in the black coating, the glare of the sun enhanced the effect of black enamel. But the position in the sky of a completely black aircraft would be difficult to distinguish. Therefore, I armed myself with Photoshop "om 7, and by typing I picked up yellow inserts on the photo of an ampmaster already made by someone. It turned out to be a kind of German color scheme. In order to understand in flight where the belly and where the back of the aircraft is, I tried to make them as best as possible more distinguishable.

Hardware Installation

Since the aircraft itself was built according to the principle “what we have, we build from it”, here, too, we did not have to choose from many. On the ailerons on HS-81, on everything else HS-55. Doubt crept into my head whether a single HS-55 would be able to cope with the elevator, given the rudder area, the weight of the aircraft and the length of the arm. I had to throw the thrust from the keel machine to the second half of the elevator, and for the new rudder machine to make a separate socket with the ability to use pull-pull. On the transmitter I made a mix of 2 and 7 channels for the elevator.

I found out at a local store that no noise suppressors were required for car wire lengths up to one meter, so I just soldered in extension wires.

close-fitting

The special iron bought for this justified itself by its ease of use. Before that, I tried to use a home iron - cheap, but inconvenient. I started the tight-fitting from the hood, and the first time nothing happened. I tore off the wrinkled tight-fitting and then acted according to the instructions that came with the film - I fixed the patch at the corners, then along the edges, and then glued everything else. Struggling with wrinkles high temperature. After I felt the behavior of the film during shrinkage, I boldly proceeded to wrap the wings and fuselage. The whole fitting took a little over three hours.

And the covered plane waited two months for the engine and batteries ...

Test flight

Finally waited!

The motor is installed, the batteries are swung and charged, traction is tested at home.

It was very scary to break my creation on the very first flight, so I double-checked everything three times: all the costs for the rudders, the directions of the rudders, the center of gravity, the rigidity of the batteries, wings and landing gear, I even shook the model to make sure it was strong.

I entrusted the first flight to the local champion. He pressed full throttle, the model took off, after about two meters it took off from the ground and confidently gained altitude. The pilot made a semicircle, flew in a straight line, made a roll, a loop, turned the plane on its back and flew two circles, joking at the same time that I allegedly forgot to glue the landing gear ... When I asked why he did not trim the model, he said that there was no trimming not required. For joy! First flight - and it flies perfectly!

After a soft landing at the feet, the pilot advised to use the exhibitor on all the rudders, especially the elevator, and gave a bunch of nice reviews about the model. Further, my hands, trembling with excitement, took up the remote control. On the fourth battery, I already turned the plane as I wanted. The only thing that did not work was to fly vertically upwards for an unlimited time, but I did not expect this. Subsequent flights were more confident and full of acrobatics. With wasteful use of gas, the flight time was more than seven minutes. With four batteries and the ability to charge them two at a time, I can not leave the airfield for at least a whole day!

We consider costs

Balsa	~ 30 USD
laser cutting	cost me free
Oracover film	20 USD
AXI-2820/10	90 USD
Propeller with collet and spinner	~ 20 USD
MM 40-3p regulator	110 USD
10 cells 4/5 FAUP pack	65 USD
Charger SuperNova 250S	105 USD
5 servos	~ 100 USD
Receiver for 7 channels	~ 40 USD
Eclipse7 transmitter	~ 300USD
Other parts (cabin, chassis, horns, etc.)	~ 50 USD
Time for modeling and manufacturing	two weeks

For some it's expensive. But if the plane crashes, then only the balsa and film are lost, the rest of the equipment, as a rule, is not damaged and can be used in another plane.

Error Analysis

In spite of good result, namely: a beautiful plane, flies well, impresses ICEs, there are several points that I would criticize.

The first is the design phase in AutoCAD. Even at this stage, it is necessary to think over the fastening of cars, hood latches, identify the distribution of masses, pay a lot of attention to trifles. And I didn't do that.

Secondly, this is the assembly stage: I cut the stabilizer with a scalpel, not with a laser, which is why it turned out to be far from ideal.

Thirdly, this is the tightening stage. Still, it was necessary to glue the black overlap on the yellow, and not vice versa.

Fourth, this is decision-making: do not believe evil tongues that such an aircraft will not fly. He's flying!

Conclusion

The flight results exceeded even optimistic expectations. The aircraft behaved even more stable than its virtual clone in Real Flight G2.

The construction turned out to be not so complicated as I imagined at the beginning. I was told that this is not the aircraft that should be built first, but I believe that if a person is confident in his abilities, then he can build this aircraft as the first and even complicate it!

Are you looking for aircraft model drawings which one is right for you?

fingering blueprints which you dug up on the Internet or took from books or magazines, you think something is not right……..

This one is too complex, this one is too simple and primitive, and this one is all made of balsa….

And if you think, well, where is WHERE to find the drawing that I need, where is that optimal airplane model or a glider that meets exactly my requirements ???

You've come to the right place, congratulations :)

Here you will find EVERYTHING!!!

And if you don’t find it, then come back later, as the site is constantly updated and supplemented.

The site used the materials of the magazine Modelist-Konstruktor. All rights to these materials belong to their authors and the Modelist-Konstruktor magazine. The site materials are for informational purposes only.

And you will definitely find what you need!

So welcome to not a site full of various drawings of aircraft models

(and not only)

Here you will find:

aircraft models with internal combustion engine Aircraft models with electric motors

Code aircraft models

aircraft models with radio control

aircraft models with rubber motor

Helicopter models

Glider Models

paper models aircraft

Drawings of kites

rocket plane models

Aircraft drawings presented on the site have various technical solutions, from the simplest to the most complex, Here are collected aircraft models from the sixties to the present day. So the choice here is very large for both beginners and professionals.

And I will constantly replenish my site with new models of aircraft, helicopters, gliders, and in general I will post everything that flies here. I bit by bit collected drawings of aircraft models from old books and magazines and I hope you appreciate my work and find a lot of interesting things for yourself here and come back more than once.

Except aircraft models I plan to lay out drawings of aircraft on which you yourself can take to the air.

These will be:

Gliders

Autogyros

Helicopters

hang gliders

And in general, I decided to create a portal based on this site in the near future. Where there will be not only aircraft, but also:

boats

Catamarans

Snowmobiles on caterpillar tracks and on pneumatics

Various velomobiles

Homemade cars

In general, everything that flies through the sky, floats on water, and moves on the ground, and that you can collect with your own hands. All this will be on my website.

So, here you will learn how to make a kite from the simplest to the more complex.

Many people are skeptical about paper models, but in vain! It's pretty interesting.

Drawings of models of gliders from the simplest to the most complex.

Line drawings of all types of aircraft from training to champion. Rubber aeromodels, this type of aeromodels is very rarely searched for in search engines, I tell you that the rubber aeromodels are not deservedly forgotten, look there, I'm sure you won't regret it!

Also here you will find drawings of timer models. radio-controlled aircraft, models of helicopters, aircraft models with jet engines-rocket planes, aircraft models with a CO2 engine, with an engine that does not operate on liquefied gas.

Aircraft model internal combustion engines (internal combustion engines), how they are arranged and how they work, as well as recipes for fuel mixtures.

There is also a section here helpful tips. Aircraft modelers are creative people and constantly invent something, invent, improve models. This section of the site will be devoted to such small inventions. I hope it will be interesting and useful to you.