"raw", which is very close to the truth. Jpeg contains ready-made information that the software automatically produces (enough to display the frame on a standard monitor). If you make a mistake and make the frame too dark or, conversely, overexposed, soapy or noisy, this cannot be corrected by any means. Raw, on the other hand, “forgives” incorrectly specified ones and allows you to do the primary processing using much more advanced programs. That is why the weight of a Raw file is disproportionately higher than that of a similar Jpeg frame.
Raw file content
1. Metadata: shooting conditions, set processing parameters, identification cameras;
2. Preview, most often in Jpeg format;
3. Data from the matrix.
Such a file weighs from 15 megabytes. Depending on the model, Raw may have the following extension: .nef, .cr2, .arw.
Raw Features
1. Correction of white balance;
2. Exposure correction;
3. Correction of distortion;
4. Removing the effect of chromatic aberration;
5. Saturation, sharpness and contrast.
However, one cannot hope that post-processing will improve everything. The frame must be clear initially, because no movement or defocusing can be corrected by the program.
Programs that work with Raw format
Each manufacturer of SLR cameras produces their own software that allows you to convert Raw to Jpeg or save it in another format, such as Psd, for further processing in Adobe Photoshop. No self-respecting professional will work with the Jpeg file itself, since the quality of the photo will only deteriorate from time to time.
Many novice photographers prefer to use the free utilities that come with the camera itself. Canon works with Raw Canon Utilities RAW Image Converter, Nikon - Nikon Imaging and Capture NX, Sony - Sony RAW Driver.
As for the universal software, the most popular is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, it allows not only to correct the image itself, but also to prepare it for publication on a photo hosting for sale, having entered all the necessary metadata into it. Those who prefer to work in Photoshop right away need to install the Adobe Camera RAW plugin, which “translates” this format into a language understandable to the editor. However, Lightroom and Photoshop have a single, but very significant drawback - their cost.
We all write the name RAW in capital letters just because it happened and everyone understands that we are talking about the file format. From English raw is translated as "raw". This fully corresponds to the essence this format, because it is an image or video format that contains all the data captured by the camera. Such files are not processed, and you have access to all information received from the camera's matrix.
Every time you take a photo while working with Jpeg, the camera performs sharpening, contrast, color correction and noise reduction. The camera also compresses the image. In each camera, you can adjust the amount of correction, but if you want to be in control, you should use the raw RAW format. The files will take up significantly more memory, but this will allow more flexibility in extracting details from shadows and highlights, adjusting white balance and having access to more colors.
You can also shoot in RAW+JPEG and get both shots at the same time. This will allow you to perform the conversion manually if you are not satisfied with the quality of the image processed by the camera.
1 Why is RAW adjustment not destructive?
When editing a JPEG file (for example, adjusting exposure, white balance, or contrast), all changes are saved to the original file. This means that you can never go back to where you started unless you left a copy of the original file.
This can be disastrous if you make the mistake of saving your changes to the original file instead of a copy (especially if you don't have a backup of the original).
What mistake can be made? You could crop the image, convert it to black and white, or resize it, and then save the image. All of these adjustments will be irreversible. This is a destructive edit where the edit cannot be undone.
TIP: When working with JPEGs, always make sure to use the Save As option when saving the file.
When working with RAW, it is not possible to overwrite the original file. All edits are saved as instructions containing all edit data. That is, there is an original raw file and a file with data on how the viewer or graphics editor program should display this file, taking into account all the adjustments for color, contrast, detail, etc.
This means that you always have access to the original file. Since the source image data is always left untouched, this is known as non-destructive editing.
2 I set my camera to RAW and took some photos, now what?
Good job! Now you need to copy the photos to your computer.
You can do this by connecting the camera to a computer, or by removing the memory card and inserting it into a memory card reader that should be connected to the computer.
Once the original files are on your computer, you can use a graphics editor like Lightroom to edit them. Once you're done editing, you can export your shots as JPEGs or print them.
3 Can I print a raw file?
Short answer: Yes and No.
Not all software programs will allow you to print raw files directly. If you are working with an editing program like Lightroom you can print source files directly from Lightroom.
Most amateur photo labs will not print RAW files. Professional labs also don't print from source files. This is due to the fact that each graphic editor in its own way can interpret the colors of raw files. There are also a lot of RAW formats. Each camera manufacturer has created its own format.
Acceptable format for printing is JPEG or in some cases TIFF. Both of these formats are easily created from RAW files.
4 How big are the original files compared to JPEGs?
RAW file size is 3-4 times larger than JPEG. Raw files are larger because they contain much more information than JPEG files. JPEG is a compressed file format. This means that in order to get a smaller size, the camera literally throws away information.
Keep in mind that storage space costs money and you will have to make a choice in which format to store files.
5 Do I need to convert my photos from RAW?
No, you can keep your original source files in their original format. You only need to export RAW files to JPEG if you want to print them or share them online.
It is possible to convert the original files into an open source RAW format known as DNG.
6 What should I do with my JPEG photos now that I'm shooting in RAW?
Your old JPEG photos are still worth keeping on your computer! You cannot convert them to RAW, but you can edit them in programs such as Lightroom.
While you can make all the same changes to JPEG files that you can make to RAW files, the flexibility isn't quite the same. You may notice a loss in image quality if you adjust too aggressively.
7 Should I shoot in sRaw or mRaw?
Some cameras may do some RAW compression, such as in sRAW and mRAW. These are essentially the same raw files, but with a reduced resolution. So instead of having 6000x4000 pixel files, the image will be scaled down to 3000x2000 pixels.
This will get the files smaller. If you want to take photography seriously, it is better not to use reduced formats. They will give less freedom in processing.
8 How does b/w work with RAW?
Raw format and black and white photos are a great combination! Great choice!
The first thing to note is that you should not use the built-in B/W capture feature. These filters can help give you an idea of what your photo will look like when you take it, but you can get a much better result when you take it. graphics editor, such as in Lightroom or Photoshop.
Also, black and white filters on cameras often require you to shoot in JPEG format. This means that your shot will be truly monochrome and you won't be able to go back to color if you decide to do so.
When shooting in RAW, you can decide after shooting whether or not to convert the image to black and white. You'll also be able to create a more dramatic look by adjusting the brightness of each color separately.
9 Should I provide raw files to my client?
Most often this should not be done. As a rule, clients do not need pictures in this format. They don't know what to do with them. At the same time, they will look dull, not contrasting and without saturated colors. Before transferring the work to the client, you need to correct them, bringing them into a beautiful view, and convert them to JPEG.
You could provide the client with the original files with the settings you made (send RAW with .xmp files) - but if your clients are not photographers, then they probably won't be able to use these files. They may not even be able to view them, since not every image viewer displays RAW.
It's best to send high-resolution JPEGs that can be viewed, shared online, and printed.
10 When should I shoot Raw?
Whether you are an amateur or a professional, you must shoot in RAW.
All DSLRs allow you to shoot in RAW. Modern smartphones and high-end compact cameras also provide access to this format. RAW is the highest quality file that the camera can create. You must use it. In addition, you have the option to shoot in RAW+JPEG. So if you're not happy with a Jpeg shot and want to edit, you can always use a paired RAW for that.
Sometimes people have a lot of objections to shooting in RAW:
Shooting in RAW takes up a lot of time and space. After shooting, you can perform image processing to obtain the best image quality and convert them to Jpeg. After raw bulk files can be deleted. This will save space. It gets more complicated over time, but if you don't plan on doing file processing, then you really don't need to shoot in RAW. In addition, there are now smart graphic editors, such as Photolemur, which do all the processing themselves.
Shooting in RAW not needed by amateurs, it is for professionals. Shooting in RAW is for those who care about the quality of their images.
It should be understood that JPEG is also acceptable for shooting. Many professionals shoot only in this format and their work is very good. But they have no room for error. Everything they do must be thought out and customized. RAW has some minor flaws that can be corrected in post-processing.
But you should understand that shooting in RAW does not give concessions. You still need to pay maximum attention to camera settings and scene lighting.
Shooting in RAW gives you a lot more options to improve your image. For example, RAW allows you to fully control the white balance during post-processing. YOU will be able to pull out more detail from the highlights and from the shadows.
My clients won't know the difference between RAW and JPEG. It's true, customers won't notice the difference. Especially if you give them pictures in JPEG format.
It is important to note that, as a professional photographer, you yourself will know the difference between RAW and JPEG. You will know how much editing flexibility you have. Sometimes, by making a mistake with the settings, you can get a too dark or too bright frame. RAW will save this photo.
I can't get the same skin tones when shooting in RAW , as it turns out when working with JPEG. JPEG files are processed in the camera according to preset settings. The camera works with white balance, contrast, and colors. All these settings are available to you.
Processing can be done in any graphics editor. Initially, RAW files look dimmer than Jpegs. They need to be processed and with practice the necessary skills will come to you.
Treatment RAW takes longer than JPEG. Regardless of the format in which you shoot, the processing speed will only depend on you, the processing methods used and the correction steps.
There are no professional photographers who would give clients completely unprocessed images. Even shooting in JPEG requires additional processing, since the camera makes minimal changes during the file creation stage. The only thing that Jpeg allows you to do faster is transferring files from a memory card to a computer due to its smaller size.
Even photographers who shoot in JPEG edit their photos, and if you spend time editing your shots, you can also use RAW to get the best quality.
Lightroom allows you to batch process your photos. The program works with RAW and JPEG files. Batch editing allows you to select multiple photos and apply the same adjustments to all. It turns out that you need to edit only one photo, and the rest will be edited automatically. This is very convenient if you shoot in the same lighting conditions. You can even create presets that are applied with a single click. Lightroom allows you to significantly increase the speed of image processing.
11 When should I shoot in JPEG?
JPEG files take up less space on the memory card. This format will come in handy on a long trip when you cannot free the memory card. With the RAW format, it can be filled quickly.
Jpeg is also preferable if your camera has a small memory buffer and you need to shoot in burst mode. JPEGs won't fill up the buffer as quickly, and you'll be able to take more photos in a burst and better document sports or other action scenes with fast-paced content.
If you need to shoot long bursts often, then you should consider buying a camera with a large memory buffer and high speed filming. If such a need does not arise often, you can simply work with the Jpeg format.
You can also shoot in batch mode and with the RAW format, but the buffer will fill faster and the series will be shorter.
12 What software do you need?
If your camera is capable of shooting in RAW, chances are the camera manufacturer offers software to process these files. You can find it on the CD or DVD that comes with the camera, or on the manufacturer's website.
The benefit of using camera manufacturer's RAW processing software is that it's free, but the benefits end there. Their software tends to be clunky, ugly, and made without much regard for usability and performance to work effectively.
The most widely used RAW software is Adobe Lightroom.
Lightroom has several competitors such as Capture One Pro, and DxO Optics Pro.
All of these programs have their strengths and weaknesses. No program dominates the other.
Why should you use Lightroom? First, Adobe is the market leader. It's likely that over 90% of professional photographers use Lightroom and Adobe. Camera Raw(software integrated into Photoshop).
Since Lightroom is made by Adobe, it integrates well with the company's other products, allowing you to work with graphics, design, website development, presentations, and more. The most important integration is Photoshop. You can make adjustments in Lightroom, transfer an image from the program to Photoshop, make corrections that cannot be done in previous program, and then return to editing in Loghtroom, without ever having to go to the desktop to resave the file. Everything is done easily and quickly.
Overall, Photoshop is a more advanced professional graphics program. You can make adjustments at the pixel level. This is very important for retouching, photo manipulation and plastic work. All this is impossible to do in Lightroom.
A good alternative to Photoshop for most photographers is Photoshop Elements, which is the consumer grade version. Photoshop Elements supports Camera RAW, but Adobe has cut some of the program's functionality.
Proof of
If you still need proof of the superiority of RAW over JPEG, try taking a picture in RAW and photographing the same scene with the same settings in JPEG. Then open both files in Lightroom. Try making adjustments to things like exposure, contrast, and white balance. You can easily see how much better results are obtained when working with raw files.
And remember, you can always set the RAW+JPEG setting and shoot in both formats at the same time, so you've got nothing to lose!
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We understand what RAW is, what advantages it gives, and in which editor it is better to process it.
RAW is the general name of the file format that contains all the information received from the matrix. The so-called raw data (RAW in English - raw).
What does a RAW file contain
To clearly demonstrate how the format works, let's first look at how any camera works.
Having taken a photo, the camera receives data directly from the matrix. But this is not a photograph, but raw data. After that, the camera processes the information received, making the photo clearer, brighter, more contrasty and juicier. The result of this processing is the finished photo, which is saved in JPG format.
Thanks to all this, the RAW format gives an order of magnitude more possibilities for processing photos than the JPG format.
RAW is not a file extension. Various manufacturers use different permissions for files of this format, for example, DNG, CRW, CR2, DCR, KDC, RAF, ARW, and so on.
What are the benefits of RAW
All the advantages are somehow related to the preservation of the original data from the matrix, which gives:
- more options for post-processing,
- greater dynamic range of photography,
- great color depth.
Another advantage is working with noise, sharpness and artifacts. The fact is that these tools work with the smallest details of the image, and they, in turn, are the first to be distorted when JPG is compressed. In RAW format, this data remains in its original form.
Of the minuses - a larger file size and greater demands on computer performance.
How to process RAW
A RAW file is created in such a way that it cannot be processed, that is, information cannot be written to it. You can only open it, apply the necessary changes, and then save the result in JPG or TIFF format.
Changes to source files are stored either in the program or in an external XMP file where all changes are recorded. Read more about XMP.
To work with RAW, so-called RAW converters are used. Below is a list of the most popular converters:
- Adobe Lightroom Classic CC
- Adobe Camera RAW
- PhaseOne Capture One Pro
A few less popular programs: DxO Optics Pro, ON1 Photo RAW, Luminar 2018.
Lightroom Classic CC and Camera RAW are built by Adobe and use the same engine. The difference is that Camera RAW is a plug-in for Photoshop, while Lightroom is a standalone program with cataloging, processing, and publishing functions.
These two programs occupy about 85% of the converter market (according to estimates), another 10-12% is accounted for by Capture One Pro.
It is better to start training with ours.
Today Lightroom is a whole family of programs, you can read more. It consists of three programs that can sync photos, presets and settings via the cloud.
- Lightroom Classic CC is a program for desktop computer, exists in versions for PC and Mac.
- Lightroom CC - cloud solution, a simplified analogue of Classic CC
- Lightroom mobile is an app for smartphones and tablets.
In addition to universal ones, there are also specialized converters produced by camera manufacturers for their customers. The main plus is that they perfectly display colors as the manufacturer intended. But as a rule they are less convenient in work and cataloging.
- Nikon–Nikon Capture NX-D
- Canon - DPP (digital photo professional)
- Fujifilm – File Converter EX
- Sony-Capture One special version compatible with Sony cameras only)
conclusions
The RAW format contains more information. This is a tool for a professional photographer and an advanced amateur who is engaged in processing their photos.
If you are taking a vacation with your family, then you can safely use JPG. And it will be easier for you and the information in jpg is more or less enough for a small correction.
If your camera shoots in RAW, congratulations. You can get much more out of your shots than owners of compact cameras that can shoot only in JPEG.
This article does not pretend to be a complete guide to RAW processing, however, in our opinion, it will be useful for those who have not yet attached importance to the potential of working with RAW.
RAW and JPEG, which is better?
Of course, it is important to understand that RAW and JPEG were originally created to solve different problems, so it is impossible to argue that RAW is better than JPEG.
Format JPEG images was created in order to demonstrate the highest quality picture with minimal cost memory. When shooting in JPEG, you immediately get a finished picture, which you can immediately send to a forum, website, social network, or maybe even print. JPEG files take up relatively little space and are the unspoken standard for storing images in user albums.
The colors in your photos will be exactly as your camera's imaging system sees them. In the case of RAW, you will either have to resort to using a native RAW converter, or use the correct profiles in a software specially designed for this. If there are no profiles (this is possible in the short term, for example, if your camera is new, and the software company has not yet had time to prepare the correct profiles), you will need to configure the image parameters yourself.
It is important to know that absolutely all cameras shoot in RAW. It's just that saving in RAW is blocked for them, and the camera independently converts the signal to JPEG using its own algorithm known only to developers. Thus, JPEG is the final result of image processing by a camera, this process proceeds in several successive stages. The image processing system does this - this is what manufacturers now call a bunch of special processor, additional chips and software algorithms.
Knowing photographers love to shoot in JPEG, developers equip almost all modern cameras, including SLR and hybrid models, with advanced JPEG processing options. In Canon DSLRs, this is the Picture Style function, in Nikon DSLRs - Picture Control, in Sony DSLRs - image styles. In addition to several frequently used presets, it is possible to configure all the parameters yourself.
Of course, the processing power and intelligence of processing systems is constantly evolving. For example, new system processing in Lumix cameras, called the Venus Engine VHD, and the image processing system in Casio cameras are equipped with three-core processors; Canon's DIGIC IV integrated circuit is equipped with fast memory and provides multi-channel reading from the sensor. The installation of these two processors in the Canon EOS 7D camera made it possible to achieve a data readout speed of 144 Mp / s.
Venus Engine FHD Tri-Core Processor
The software part is also important, and it is often based on an extensive database of typical shooting scenes. The camera compares the brightness composition of the shot against a database that already contains several thousand typical scenes and uses the optimal shooting settings. When recognizing a certain color in the frame, such as a blue sky, cameras increase the saturation of that particular blue color. It comes to the fact that cameras take into account the time zone, as well as the date and time of shooting. Thus, your camera can, for example, when shooting sunsets, automatically increase the saturation of reds and yellows, making the shot more “tasty” and the camera owner more joyful.
Unfortunately, often automatic programs glitches or provide undesirable effects, greatly overestimating / underestimating the contrast or saturation of the image.
There are many situations in which shooting in JPEG is more appropriate. It makes sense to shoot in this format if you are sure that the photos do not need significant processing, when shooting large series (not the cheapest SLR models usually have a large RAW buffer, but compact cameras and budget SLR cameras traditionally have a RAW buffer). no more than 10 frames per burst), and also when the memory card is close to full.
What is the path from the moment of shooting to saving the image to the memory card?
The signal received from the sensor is interpolated to RGB, the processor performs color correction in accordance with the white balance settings, and then applies color correction based on the saturation, contrast and other color settings.
After that, the image processing system applies one of the special effects, if they have been selected by the user, for example, miniature effect, tilt-shift optics simulation, fisheye lens distortion. If special effects are not involved, then, on the contrary, software correction of vignetting, chromatic aberrations and optical distortions is carried out.
By the way, it was these software methods that made it possible to reduce the cost and size of such popular cameras as the Canon S90 and Lumix LX-3. In order to reduce the price of devices and their dimensions, manufacturing companies decided to abandon the complex optical design of lenses, which minimizes unwanted distortion.
Small dimensions and high image quality in the Canon S90
made possible by software correction of lens distortions
Finally, the camera applies the user-specified sharpening (sharpening) or blur settings, noise reduction settings at slow shutter speeds or high ISO, and only after that it converts the result into an 8-bit image, i.e. JPEG.
The saddest moment is that each stage of transformation leads to an irreversible loss of information in the photo. And if the pictures are of some value to you, then it is very stupid to give all these stages for processing by the camera.
Shooting in RAW format allows you to edit the image beyond the limits of the JPEG format. You can correct the exposure, white balance settings, sharpen and remove noise in the image after. Roughly speaking, all you need when shooting in RAW is to get a technically satisfactory shot. The rest can be improved.
RAW is a specific format that stores information about the signal taken directly from the light sensor without further processing by the camera. Data in a RAW container can be either uncompressed or compressed, with or without loss. However, even in the worst case of lossy compression, a RAW file contains significantly more information than a maximum quality JPEG image: 12- or 14-bit RAW files are much more tolerant of user processing than highly compressed 8-bit JPEGs.
Almost all manufacturers have their own RAW formats: Canon has *.acr and *.cr2, Sony - *.arw, *.srf, *.sr2, Nikon - *.nef, *.nrw, Pentax - *. ptx and *.pef, while Samsung has *.srw. Many new models use the Adobe-developed open format DNG (Digital Negative, digital negative).
RAW is a kind of undeveloped digital image. Although it is recognized by many modern viewers (with or without special plug-ins), it is unsuitable for printing, and the file itself can be interpreted differently by different editors. For example, the same RAW when viewed in ACDSee and Picasa is significantly different.
The RAW format provides extensive post-processing capabilities within some limits without loss of quality. All those operations that the camera's processor does on its own will need to be done manually. There is only one reward here - much better and more effective photos.
However, RAW files take up significantly more space, they are 3-6 times larger than similar JPEG files, and some knowledge and processing time are required for conversion. Fortunately, the process is quite fun, and if you have a good RAW source, you will definitely be happy with the final result.
RAW conversion using the example of Adobe Lightroom
We will look at RAW conversion using Adobe Lightroom version 3.2 as an example. This program deserves attention for several reasons: it is quite simple to use, it is regularly updated and it supports almost all released cameras capable of outputting RAW files. The application is well integrated with the Photoshop family and is very functional, it is equally convenient when working with individual photos or with a large number of images.
Of the disadvantages of Lightroom, it is worth noting the exactingness of computer computing resources and the need to purchase it. The lack of a Russian-language interface also often scares off novice photographers. You can download the program on the official website of Adobe.
Despite enough big number programs of this type, of which we would note the free RawTherapee, Apple Aperture, Phase One Capture One and Bibble Pro, the Lightroom application, in our opinion, is the golden mean.
All of these programs deserve attention, as they are stronger at certain points. For example, Aperture is very easy to use, while Capture One gives you the best color control.
In a loose translation, the word lightroom is interpreted as a place for developing pictures. In principle, the way it is - it is a convenient and powerful interface for developing RAW images and even working with JPEGs. Lightroom is a non-destructive image processing algorithm. Until the moment of conversion, the pictures entered into the program remain untouched, and preview effects and settings is available from the application cache. Each file is assigned a detailed user-edited document, which is written into instructions and then executed when converting images from RAW.
This approach is quite convenient, and thanks to it, an infinite history of actions with a snapshot or snapshots is implemented.
The Lightroom program allows you to synchronize the selected settings for a group of photos, which is very convenient, for example, if you have taken many shots of the same type and want to transfer editing to several pictures at once.
The Library module contains a feature of the program for cataloging images. We will not focus on it. We only note that frames can be sorted by creation time, title, shooting coordinates, lens, focal length, etc. It is possible to create dynamic collections that are automatically replenished according to selected criteria, and much more.
The Library module is very powerful and convenient, as are the modules for preparing for printing (Print), creating a slide show (Slide-show) and publishing on the Internet (Web). Their description would be enough for another article, so we will pay attention to the most important module - the processing module (Develop).
At the very top is an image histogram by color and shooting information. The histogram can be moved with the mouse, its certain areas are responsible for controlling the exposure, dark and light areas of the frame. The histogram is quite clear and allows you to quickly correct frames that were initially not very successful.
It should be noted that all settings follow in a logical order, and if you do not quite understand what you want to improve in the picture, you can move through the settings from top to bottom.
Basic panel
White balance (white balance). In this window, the user can choose one of the white balance presets available in your camera, or entrust the choice of optimal settings to automation, which provides a surprisingly high-quality result. If you are not satisfied with the above settings, you can use the sliders Temperature (color temperature) and Tint.
The easiest and most convenient way to correctly set the white balance is to use the White Balance Selector tool (eyedropper), which can be used to indicate a neutral tone in the image, such as a white or gray area. This shows a greatly enlarged area under the pipette so that you can more accurately select the correct neutral area on inhomogeneous textures.
exposure- one of the most important tools in the conversion. It is with its help that the primary “pulling” of details from incorrectly exposed photographs is performed.
This parameter sets the overall brightness of the image and its white point. If you hold down Alt while working, the areas of the frame that are knocked out into the light will be highlighted, i.e. they will not contain any information other than pure or almost pure white. If there is no artistic idea in this, the details lost in the lights should be tried to be returned. This applies to the bright white wedding dress as well as the texture of the clouds in the sky.
Tool Recovery called upon to help us. It removes overexposures in right places, almost without affecting the rest of the photo. If you have done color correction before, after applying Recovery, a light gray veil may appear in the picture or the colors may change slightly.
Tool fill light(fill light), on the contrary, increases the brightness of dark areas, while not affecting the light areas.
If Recovery can almost always be turned up to the maximum, then with Fill Light you should be careful - the unnatural brightness of dark areas can give even a good picture a flat and unnatural look. Both tools help to get into the histogram, and their judicious use can be considered a light variation of HDR, high dynamic range images.
Parameter Blacks sets the black point of the image.
Parameter brightness Many consider it a clone of the Fill Light tool, but this is not the case - it changes the brightness for the entire tonal range of your image.
Parameter contrast responsible for the contrast of the photo. Decreasing contrast makes tonal transitions softer, while increasing contrast makes them sharper.
Three interesting tools are in the subblock Presence (appearance), and changing them greatly changes the photo itself.
Tool Clarity affects the micro-contrast of the image, namely, the smoothness of contrast transitions, such as edges, contours of objects. Increasing the value of this setting creates the feeling of a sharp frame, while decreasing it creates the effect of a soft, almost out-of-focus image.
Tool Vibrance- this is perhaps one of the most effective, simple and beloved Lightroom tools. Following its success, Adobe implemented a similar tool in Photoshop CS4. Vibrance is a smart saturation enhancement feature. It does not affect already saturated colors, but selectively and non-linearly increases the saturation of dull shades. This approach avoids oversaturation, loss of shades and various artifacts in the image. In addition, Vibrance selectively enhances the saturation of skin tones and prevents people's skin from turning into a yellow-beige substance.
Tool Saturation increases the saturation of all colors at once. A slight increase in saturation along with the use of Vibrance will allow you to get even more juicy and vibrant colors. However, you should use Saturation carefully, you should not twist the parameter value to the maximum.
The next block is curves. The tone curve in Lightroom is used to adjust the contrast within a certain range of tones. Although this is a very powerful tool in terms of image enhancement, we will not cover it yet, as it is quite complicated for beginners, and The best way to study it is just to experiment.
Color correction block
This block is designed to correct the hue, saturation and brightness (luminosity) of individual colors. Colors are initially divided into several shades: red, orange, yellow, green, aqua, cyan, violet, magenta.
On each options tab Hue(tone), Saturation(saturation), Luminance(brightness) there is a list with sliders to control each color. However, the most convenient way to selectively color correct is to use the dot tool. All you need to do is move it to the desired color in the frame, for example, to the sky, and move it up and down with the mouse button held down. The result of the application is immediately displayed on the photo, and this approach makes the method of working by eye very convenient.
In mode grayscale all colors in the picture can also be varied and use the dot tool.
Split Toning Block
This block will be of interest to people who want to achieve creative processing comparable to effects such as sepia or film color simulation. Here, separate toning with a certain color of light and dark areas of the image is available. We invite you to experiment with the block yourself.
Block Details(detail) includes two very important items - Sharpening and Noise Reduction.
Tool sharpening responsible for sharpening the image. It works on the same principle as the Unsharp Mask tool in Adobe Photoshop. This tab contains a 1:1 scale image fragment and algorithm settings - Amount, Radius, Detail, Masking.
Parameter Amount is responsible for the intensity of the sharpening algorithm.
Parameter Radius is responsible for the thickness of the area on the boundaries of objects in which the algorithm will work. For modern SLR cameras with a resolution above 10 megapixels, the recommended values are 0.8-1.
About RAW format and RAW convertersFirst I will say a few words about RAW, then about converters, then I will compare the results of their work. The material is of an overview and fact-finding nature and is intended to broaden one's horizons; The task of thoroughly understanding the features of the work of each program is not in front of me. It should be interesting for both beginners and advanced.
Digital photography is designed in such a way that the result of shooting is half, or maybe more, dependent on computer processing of the frame. And the first program in the standard process of processing photos from a SLR camera (or an advanced compact) is usually a RAW converter. I will talk about what it is, why it is necessary and what RAW converters exist.
RAW format
You need to understand: there is no such thing as a "RAW format". This is the general name for image files that have not been processed by the camera's processor. Each manufacturer has come up with its own format of "raw" pictures. These are NEF for Nikon, PEF for Pentax, CR2 or CRW for Canon. It is especially important that all these formats are closed, i.e. how to correctly read data from files is known only to the camera manufacturer. The only standardized RAW format is the DNG format, which was developed and actively pushed into the market by Adobe. The latter does not release cameras, but wants to bite off its piece of the pie. The DNG format is supported by some digital cameras such as Petnax, Samsung or Leica.
So, a RAW file contains a raw signal recorded in a certain way from the camera's matrix. Raw files also contain meta-data, shooting conditions, some processing parameters. Such a file is especially valuable because it stores all the data received from the camera matrix, and not what is left after the conversion. This gives incomparably greater freedom in photo processing compared to the TIFF format (I’m generally silent about JPEG - it implies lossy compression) Of course, raw files take up 3-8 times more space compared to JPEG; Well, at the same time, high-quality and lightweight does not happen.
The lack of standardization of the raw file format is easily explained: it is beneficial for each camera manufacturer to release a conversion program for its own RAW format. For example, for Nikon (NEF) this is Capture NX 2, for Canon RAW it is Canon RAW Image Converter. It is the "native" program that most correctly displays the colors in the photo, suppresses noise well, etc. by virtue of the fact that it "knows" how to correctly read the file. But that's in theory. In practice, though standard applications from the manufacturer have a number of drawbacks (for example, Capture NX 2 is extremely slow to work regardless of the PC configuration), which prompts the photographer to look for alternative ways to convert photos.
And a little more about RAW files
Many cameras have the ability to select the bitness of the RAW file - 12 or 14 bits. The more bits spent on describing the image, the more data will be written to the RAW file, and, as a result, the picture will contain more details and colors. It will also reduce noise. More details on the comparison of 12 and 14-bit images can be found in this article.
Some cameras, mostly compacts, do not support shooting in RAW by default. However, for some cameras it is possible to bypass this limitation. For example, using alternative firmware cameras called CHDK (Canon Hack Development Kit) allows you to enable RAW support for a huge number of Canon cameras. You can see the list of supported cameras and download the firmware here. In addition to RAW support, this firmware gives access to many other hidden settings, allows you to use the camera as a webcam, etc. A similar trick can be done with some Casio compacts.
A RAW file contains a lot of service information, for example, the date of shooting, the focal length of the optics, and the camera model. And if any viewer can display some data, then some of the parameters (for example, the "mileage" of the camera - the number of shutter releases) are not shown in every program. In order to see the full contents of the meta data stored in a RAW file, I recommend using free utility Photome. Try it, you will learn a lot.
What is the best way to view RAW files on a computer? The most common application is ACDSee Pro, the main drawback of which is its extreme bulkiness and slowness. The day is near when, in response to the jocular question "Who will be the first to make operating system, ACDSee or Nero?" a specific answer will be given. I recommend using the FastStone Image Viewer, which, being completely free, weighing 4.53 MB and supporting the Russian language, can read the RAW file formats of all cameras, but it works faster than ACDSee.
RAW converter
RAW converter is a program that allows you to get a finished image from a raw RAW file in one of the most common graphic formats, and suitable for subsequent editing in a graphic editor. It is conditionally possible to compare this process with developing by analogy with film photography. Any RAW converter has its own (different from others, which is important) algorithms for constructing an image stored in RAW, so the final image will look different in different converters. Also, any converter has basic functions work with exposure, the ability to fine-tune colors, correct geometry and image defects. Some converters are able to catalog images, create them backups and even upload them to photo hosting sites like flickr. Such programs are said to implement a "full processing cycle", ie. with the help of one such program, you can do all conceivable operations with a photo, up to applying a watermark and posting it on the Internet. All converters support opening the DNG format, as well as saving to TIFF, JPEG and PNG formats. Otherwise, the lists of supported formats vary. There are also destructive and non-destructive editing. In the first case, the edited file changes the results of the work. In the second case, the program saves the settings in a separate file, which makes it possible to mark any correction, as well as create several processing options. Non-destructive editing is used by all modern raw converters without exception.
About hardware
A few words about the computer configuration required for comfortable work with converters. The main advice is simple: the more powerful, the better. RAW files by themselves usually weigh about 20-30 MB. Thus, to store 100 photos in RAW, you will need about 2-3 GB disk space. The conversion process itself is highly dependent on the converter algorithms, but usually it still loads the processor completely. The trend is that more and more programs are "sharpened" for multi-core and 64-bit processors. For example, Adobe Lightroom, starting from version 2.6, can fully use 4 processor cores. Concerning random access memory, then it must be at least 1.5 GB (when working with Windows 7). Better yet, 6 GB and Windows 7 x64.
"Explain to me clearly why shoot in RAW."
Here is a picture.
This is an incorrect JPEG, obtained by converting from RAW without any settings. Actually - in-camera JPEG. We twist the same RAW in DxO, we get the following:
And now apply the same settings, but to the in-camera JPEG. And let's compare:
Do you understand? On the left, it turns out as if we took a JPEG from the camera as the source. On the right - if RAW were processed.
So, go directly to RAW converters.
The following programs were included in the review:
- Adobe Camera RAW (Adobe Lightroom 3 Beta, Adobe Photoshop CS 4)
- ACDSee Pro Photo Manager 3
- Bibble 5 Pro
- DxO Optics Pro 6
- Nikon Capture NX2
- CaptureOne 5 Pro
All these converters are designed to work under Windows XP/Vista/7.
Not included in the review:
- Corel Photo Paint X3. It also knows how to convert raw files, but it would be better if it didn’t know how.
- Converters that work only under Linux, Mac OS, etc.
- SilkyPix Developer Studio Pro 4.0. For some unknown reason, it refused to run on my system.
- Ufraw and RawTherapee (dcraw) because perversion.
Adobe Camera Raw (Lightroom 3 Beta, Photoshop CS 4)
Program website: www.adobe.com
Cost of Adobe Lightroom 2.6: about 11,000 rubles.
Supported formats: opening files of any raw and raster formats, saving to JPEG, TIFF, PSD, DNG, original.
Adobe Camera Raw (hereinafter referred to as ACR) is not a separate program, but a plug-in for Adobe Photoshop, as well as the foundation of Lightroom. And in Photoshop CS 4 on this moment uses ACR version 5.6 and the latest Lightroom Beta 3 uses ACR version 6.0. ACR produces excellent quality pictures and has a lot of settings. Perhaps Adobe Lightroom is generally the most famous and used RAW converter. The program is able to eliminate chromatic aberration, vignetting and other image defects (in manual mode). Implemented and the possibility of noise reduction (partially disabled in version ACR 6). Among other things, Lightroom has rich cataloging, photo sorting, web preview generation, and also supports many color profiles cameras to display colors correctly. The strengths of the converter are speed, high image quality, integration with flickr.com, as well as the ability to save sets of settings in the so-called. "presets". This means that for the same type of processing of a series of photographs, you need to process one frame, save the settings and then apply them to all other frames in the series. The program has a simple and logical user interface and is perfect for fast processing of large volumes of photos. Third party plugins are supported.
Useful links:
- sensible 2-hour lecture on Lightroom;
- 436 presets for Lightroom;
- LiveJournal community dedicated to Lightroom, where you can ask any question that interests you.
Also try holding Ctrl+Alt+Shift and clicking on the menu "Help" -> "About Adobe Photoshop Lightroom" =)
Bibble 5 Pro
Program website: www.bibblelabs.com
Price: $200
Supported formats: opening files of any raw and raster formats, saving to JPEG and TIFF.
The oldest of the RAW converters, Bibble appeared already in 2000. Everything in it is arranged simply clear and understandable. On the left is the folder tree, in the middle is the image being processed, on the right is the settings panel, of which, frankly, there are very few of them. Only the most basic exposure, color, white balance adjustments are available. It is possible to rotate the image to an arbitrary angle, it is possible to create settings presets. Of the interesting - a module (comes as standard) for emulating a film picture. In general, it's poor. it is not always possible to track changes in the image by the histogram. But everything just works with jet speed. Files are loaded quickly, converted in 2-3 seconds. The interface is minimalistic and clear. Perhaps Bibble will be for you the very program with which you will start communicating with the RAW format.
DxO Optics Pro 6
Program website: www.dxo.com
Price:$149/$299 Pro Edition/Elite Edition
Supported formats: opening files of any raw and raster formats, saving to JPEG, TIFF and DNG.
A program not particularly known to us, which provides extremely interesting opportunities. First of all, there are simple tools for correcting geometric distortions of the frame, "blockages" of objects at the edges of the picture, resulting from shooting with a wide-angle lens. Also, the program can fully automatically correct distortion depending on the camera and optics that the frame was taken with; the data is taken from EXIF "a. At the beginning of working with the picture, the program reads the meta-data, surfs the Internet and downloads the necessary correction module. And - voila, the "cushion", vignetting and chromaticity disappear. , probably the best of all the programs mentioned here.In general, all settings in DxO Optics are set to Auto, which will help you save a lot of time working with photos.The output image is bright and contrast.The workflow is also implemented clearly and simply: selecting photos (adding them to a virtual project), adjustment, conversion and viewing. low speed direct conversion. On a 4-core AMD processor Phenom 9950 2.6 GHz and 4 GB of RAM takes about 40-50 seconds per photo, depending on the number of settings applied.
Phase One Capture One 5
Program website: www.phaseone.com
Price:$129/$299 CaptureOne 5/5 Pro
Supported formats: opening all RAW formats, saving to any raster format.
Initially, the program was designed to work with Phase One digital backs, then it began to support the most common raw formats. The main charm is in huge number settings, for example, High Dynamic Range (albeit of little use), Color Editor based on the color wheel, a separate tool for correcting skin tone, etc. In terms of color settings, this is the richest program. I also note the excellent implementation of the sharpness enhancement mechanism, which is similar in action to Smart Sharpen (Remove Lens Blur). However, the instruments do not have automatic modes, and the output picture is not the best, for my taste. If you want to receive good result, the picture will have to be manually adjusted for a long time and painstakingly.
Well, here's a comparison of the pictures. Everything was set up like this:
- set the noise reduction in each converter to Auto. Where there is no Auto - we select the best option with our hands;
- where possible, select the Neutral profile settings;
- correction of distortion, vignetting, chromaticity - back to Auto;
- do not touch the rest.
It is clear that all this does not pretend to be a strict comparison. But you can get a general idea. Those interested can download the full size (JPEG, q=100%).
JPEG, 45 MB
JPEG, 43 MB
- ACDSee - when the frame is taken at low ISO, without aberrations, and will be finalized in Photoshop.
- CaptureNX - if you have a Nikon + frame, you need to somehow cunningly pull it up.
- Capture One - compound. It seems that I don't like it just because I don't know how to use it =)
- DxO. Absolute winner. For guys with powerful hardware.