Hello dear reader! In this article, we will Stress test computer for stability program OCCT (OverClock Checking Tool) at the time of writing this article itself latest version — 4.4.1.
With the help of the program OCCT we will be able to test the following components of our PC:
Program OCCT when passing the test, it gives the maximum load on the tested components of our PC. And if the testing ended without errors, then your PC and cooling system are fully functional, and they are not going to fail yet!
First, download the program, or from the official site, install.
The installation is standard, after running the downloaded installation file, in the first window, click "Next", in the second click "Accept", in the third "Next" and in the fourth window - the button "Install"
After installation, you will see the following program icon on your desktop OCCT
We launch the program from the shortcut. And before us appears something like this window.
Why about? Because the program window changes depending on the settings, I have already configured the program, and in the end, after all the settings, you will get the same program window, and then you will change it according to your interests.
So, let's start setting up the program OCCT.
In the main window of the program, click on this button
Getting into the settings window
In this window, the most important thing is to set the temperatures at which the test will be stopped, this is necessary to prevent the failure of any node from overheating.
ADVICE- If you have a fairly new PC, then the temperature can be set to 90 ° C. For components latest releases relatively high operating temperatures.
But if your PC is 5 or more years old, then set the temperature to 80 ° C. Later production parts are very sensitive to overheating.
The best option is to look at the maximum allowable temperatures of your iron on the manufacturer's website.
Components in overclocking do not pass the test! Program OCCT gives such a load that the temperature exceeds 90 ° C and stops the test.
90°C to 100°C and above is the critical point at which parts on your components will start to desolder from their seats if they don't burn out first.
But you should not be afraid to burn the system in panic! “I repeat” The main thing is to check all fans (Coolers) for operability before passing the test in system block and clean the cooling system from dust.
And to spend computer stability test a must! To crash your PC (let's say at the time of writing some archi-important material for you) didn't come as a surprise.
After solving the issue of temperatures, in the last column of settings called "Real-time", we check the boxes for the graphs that we want to see when passing the test.
So, with the settings figured out, you can close them. Now let's go back to the main window of the program.
There are four tabs in the main program window. CPU:OCCT, CPU:LINPACK, GPU:3D and POWER SUPPLY.
Processor, RAM, and Motherboard Test - CPU:OCCT
Let's start with the values here: For convenience, I numbered them.
1. Type of testing: Infinite - The test will run without time until you stop it yourself. Auto - The test will run according to the time set in paragraph 2. Duration.
3. Periods of inactivity– Time before the start of the test, and after the end. The report of which you will see in the program window after starting the test.
4. Test Version- The capacity of your system. My program itself determined the bit depth at the first start.
5.Test Mode- Here we select one of the three sets in the drop-down menu: Large, Medium, and Small.
- Big set – Tested for errors Processor, RAM, and Motherboard (chipset) .
- Medium set – Tested for errors Processor and RAM.
- small set– Only the Processor is tested for errors.
6. Number of threads- Set the number of threads that your processor supports. My program itself determined the number of processor threads.
Go to the second tab CPU:LINPACK
CPU Test - CPU:LINPACK
On points 1. 2. 3. I think everything is clear. See above in the first test
Point 4. We leave it unchanged.
5. Check the box if you have a 64-bit processor and system.
6. AVX is Linpack compatible. This parameter is determined for each processor separately.
I will not describe the microarchitecture of processors completely here, this is a separate topic, and I think it will be interesting for every user to delve into it.
7. Use all logical cores - Check the box so that our processor uses its full potential, including logical cores (if any).
Everything is clear here, let's move on to the next tab.
Video card test - GPU:3D
On points, everything is unchanged 1. 2. 3. I think everything is clear. See above in the first test
4. Install the version of DirectX that your Windows supports.
DirectX 9- shader model 2.0 Windows XP and more old windows
DirectX 11- shader model 5.0 Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows 8
5. Choose your video card.
6. Set the resolution of your monitor.
7. Put a tick. If you, like me, have 2 video cards installed in SLI mode.
8. If the checkbox is checked, then the heating of the video card will be lower, and error detection will be more efficient.
9. Uncheck the box if we want to use all the memory of the video card.
10. For video cards from Nvidia, a value of 3 is better. For video cards from ATI, a value of 7.
11. Set the number of frames per second. The value 0 is off. You can set the value to "0" to check how much FPS your video card can give.
Here, too, everything is set up, go to last tab— POWER SUPPLY
PSU (Power Supply) Test
The settings are almost the same as on the tab GPU:3D
Here the principle of the test is as follows: The whole system operates at its fullest possible power, trying to strain our PSU to the maximum.
P.S. in the settings at the bottom of the main program window there is a field where hints appear when you hover over a custom item
Hi all! Today we will talk about a very vital situation, when suddenly your computer flatly refuses to turn on. That is, when you press a button on the system unit case, nothing happens at all.
In such situations, the first step is to check the connection of the network wire, as well as the position of the power switch on the back of the computer. If that doesn't work, then you need to know. how to check computer power supply for performance. And I must say that there is nothing complicated here.
And, of course, no one except me in our team can cope with such a disaster. Therefore, having rolled up my sleeves and prepared to inhale the dust, I am almost a ten-year-old iron worker.
Naturally, the first step was to check the connection of the power cord to the power supply connector, and also re-fixed the position of the toggle switch:
But alas, all these events did not lead to anything good. As they say, the patient still remained dead. Well, the next step is to check the power supply itself.
And here I must say that we will do this with a simple folk method, without any multimeters and similar devices. Well, it's not my fault that the electrician was not yet at the workplace. It's understandable, it was the weekend.
So, first of all, you need to disconnect from motherboard a long rectangular block with contacts. This is how it should look like for you:
At this step, just in case, turn off the power from the hard drive. But let the drive be energized, since it is believed that computer blocks cannot be run without load. The cheapest of them can burn out at the same time:
Now let's move on to the main point. We take the most ordinary paper clip, unbend it and close the contacts green and black wires on the big plug:
Of course, you need to understand the moment that such manipulations are best done with a completely de-energized computer, so that, due to inexperience, you don’t short something out and burn the motherboard or hard drive to hell.
So, after applying voltage, our unit should make noise with the fan, which in most cases indicates its full combat readiness. If this did not happen, then he really died.
like this in a simple way, you can easily check the computer's power supply for performance. And by the way, just in case, this way suitable even without the participation of the computer itself and the motherboard:
What else can be said on this issue? If, after closing with a clip, the fan spins, but the computer still does not start, it makes sense to check the supply voltage on all channels with a multimeter:
Therefore, keep this nuance in mind and remember that if the computer does not start at all, and the unit is working, then it may be due to broken conders. Look at them again:
And they are always located near the processor socket itself and are responsible for supplying power to it. Well, now you know exactly how you can check the computer's power supply for performance.
That's all for now and see you again. And finally, as always, a very interesting video. Let's watch together.
How to check the power supply of a computer. The computer does not turn on.
So, the power cord from the outlet to the computer's power supply has been checked. Thus, the required voltage is suitable for the power supply. But when I press the power button, nothing happens and the computer does not turn on. It is most likely a power supply failure. You can independently check the power supply, its health, and at least try to determine for what reason the computer's power supply does not work.
Well, you have to free the computer from the side cover from the side air vent. The second one is not required. If the fans do not spin when you press the power button, there are only a few options. The main reasons: the power supply or the power button is faulty. Yes, anything can happen, and it could just be a button malfunction or a wire break from the button to the connector on. Let's select the direction in which we will move.
What will we need?
- a short circuit in the form of a metal wire, a small piece of wire of a small cross section; I use a resistor type radio element with a nominal value of 1 kOhm, but for a one-time experience and scrapers will be enough; however, I advise you not to leave a PSU with a scraper for a long time: the smaller the cross section, the stronger our impromptu short circuit will warm up
- (if you are going to check not only the PSU performance, but also the voltage through the main load channels)
I propose to divide the entire verification procedure into the following stages:
Does the button itself work?
To separate the power supply failure from the button failure, we do not need to remove the power supply itself yet. First, unplug the computer's power cord from the outlet or turn off the power button on the back of the power supply.
With the lid open, trace the path of the power-on wires and the "LED" wires from the front of the computer to the motherboard. It is not difficult to find them, they have a mixed (red, blue, black and green wires) color designation and, ending with jackers, are connected to the “male” connectors of the motherboard. These connectors are usually found in the bottom quadrant of the board.
Our task is to highlight the connector that is responsible for turning on the computer from the button. The voltage on the motherboard is low and there is no need to be afraid of an electric discharge. The only advice is to try not to damage the motherboard while you are trying to check the power supply with the manipulations described below.
The desired connector is easy to determine. It is indicated by letters with the participation of the letters PW or POWER(from English - food). As in the photo below, it almost always has a similar color scheme wires - green ( red or blue) plus white (rarely others). But given the fact that we do not know who built our computer, the most the best way determine the ownership of any wires, this is a picture next to these connectors. As you can see in the photo, the right side of the figure is indicated by these letters. So this is the power button. It is connected by two wires and it will also help us check the power supply.
the connection diagram is drawn directly on the board, and the connectors themselves are no longer included in the photo, they are slightly to the right of the shooting area
The specified characters are required for the power button. Pull towards you and remove the jacker from the socket. Remember it. In the next step, the protruding pins will close together. The next step is to plug the power cord into an outlet or turn on the button on the power supply.
Now let's try to check the power supply for start
Using the flat tip of a small screwdriver, a scissors blade or a paper clip, briefly bridge the motherboard contacts that have been released from the power button jack as shown in the photo. Try a few times.
- If the power supply is good and working itself, the computer will turn on and continue to work. It will be possible to turn off the computer by simply turning it off from the button on the power supply, pulling the plug out of the socket, or re-closing the same contacts with a screwdriver, but holding it until it turns off.
- If the coolers of the power supply, processor cooling and cooling of the system unit (if any) turned on, but this did not happen from the button assembly, the power supply is in order and the malfunction lies in the power button.
- If the computer does not respond to manipulations, proceed to the next step.
Disconnect the main ATX connector from the power supply to the motherboard. This is the largest connector, you can’t confuse it with anything. This is a 24-pin (or 20 + 4) connector:
The camera flash ruined the view a bit...
Press the plastic lock on the side with your thumb (or forefinger), releasing the connector for dismantling, and pull the connector towards you with swaying longitudinal movements. Rest your free fingers, if necessary, on the motherboard. Do not break (although I have never broken).
Now let's try to check the power supply and run it directly
AT assembled circuit the power-on signal goes from the button through the motherboard to the green contact of the connector that you hold in your hands. We bypass the board and close this contact to any of the black wires. To check the power supply, contact closure black and green colors will be carried out for a short time. This means that you can use any means at hand: a paper clip, tweezers, etc. Do not be afraid of electric shock, the voltage in this part of the system is absolutely safe. Contacts that will be closed are located nearby: they have conditional numbering 15 and 16 (remember this: numbering will come in handy when looking for other contacts). The black wire is “earth” (empty), the green one, when the wire is plugged into the socket, carries voltage. You can short circuit directly when plugged into a power outlet; you will not suffer, the voltage is scanty and not dangerous for a person:
If the power supply continues to be silent, the coolers do not want to spin, the fault lies in the power supply. In the language of electrical engineering, this means that the voltage in this section of the power supply circuit is less than the prescribed 5 V. More on this in another article. You can call a specialist or continue the search yourself.
It's time to check the power supply with the device
If the power supply came to life, we proceed to measurements with the device. Turn off the power supply temporarily. Set the multimeter to measure constant voltage values. On the instrument carriage, this is a sector with symbols V- :
and immediately set the measurement limit to 20 volts:
I will remove the main consumers (disks, floppy drives, power to the video card) of the computer from the power and signal loops:
hard drive disabled
And behind it is a DVD drive:
We turn on the computer in the socket or the key on the PSU at the back. With the power supply turned on (the cooler is spinning in it), I check the voltage at the terminals of the 24-pin 12V power supply. given in the article of the same name. We closed the wires with numbers 15 and 16. And here is how the numbering itself goes:
Two (usually orange at the edges) in the opposite row from the green - 1 and 2 . And so on from left to right. The numbering of the next row is also from left to right. Look at the photo.
We insert the black probe of the device for a long time into the contact of the black connector (this will be the contact 3 ). It is located just opposite the black contact. 15 occupied by a scraper. In the language of specialists, this is called “putting the probe on the ground”, we will not remove it from the connector for the duration of the measurements (you can fix it there, just don’t overdo it):
With the red probe of the device, we will alternately check the value of the output voltage on all channels of the block (I say right away - the experimental power supply is healthy) and start with 1 th:
The second pin of the connector shows the same parameters:
Next tested contact number 4 - it's 5 volts. Check ( do not burn yourself on the scraper!):
And so on. And thus, from contact to contact, you must gradually compare the passport pinout readings of the PSU (see link above) with the readings of the device. That is, the readings of the multimeter will approximately coincide (with a small error) with the readings in the article table. Please note that contact 3 with contacts 5 , 7 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 24 the device should not respond.
ATTENTION . The next step we will try to check the power supply under load. All measurements just taken will be carried out in the same way, but with the connector connected to the board. When I made such measurements for the first time, I partly numbered (so as not to get confused) the wires on the connector with tape tags. I advise you too. Everything is not needed - just note the starting point and the order of counting. The color of the wire will remind you of the voltage indicators.
Check power supply under load
If the voltage values of the pinout table and the readings of the multimeter when the PSU is idling are the same (measurement errors within fractions of a percent are acceptable and better upwards), let's try to check the power supply under load. Let's assemble the circuit by connecting all the cables, and put the computer into operation. DO NOT CLOSE THE LID YET! We need BIOS and type tab power with paragraph Hardware Monitor(There are many BIOS versions, their interface is different - so do not blame me). I have so:
The tab displays voltage values as BIOS sees them. As you can see, the read information matches the measured ones. The power supply is working properly. And now it’s worth checking the indicated readings on the screen with the readings of the multimeter when working under load. We insert the PSU connector into the “mother” connector of the motherboard, connect all the devices, turn on the computer and check with the device in the same order, also successively changing the probes in the set measurement range, but in this manner:
I think I helped you draw some conclusions about the performance of the power supply. Of course, all these conclusions are superficial, and the cleanliness of the PSU can only be said armed with an oscilloscope.
Computer won't turn on? In this material you will find the answer to the question: how to check the power supply of a computer.
The thesis solution of this problem is in one of our previous articles.
Read about how to check its performance in our today's article.
Power supply (PSU) - a secondary power source (the primary source is a socket), the purpose of which is to convert AC voltage into a constant, as well as providing power to computer nodes at a given level.
Thus, the PSU acts as an intermediate link between the electrical network and, accordingly, from its serviceability and correct operation depends on the performance of other components.
Causes and symptoms of a malfunctioning power supply
As a rule, the reasons due to which PSUs fail can be:
low quality of the mains voltage (frequent voltage drops in the network, as well as its going beyond the operating range of the PSU);
poor quality of components and workmanship in general (this item is relevant for cheap power supplies);
You can determine the failure of the PSU or some other component by the following signs:
after pressing the power button of the system unit, nothing happens - there is no light and sound indication, the cooling fans do not rotate;
the computer turns on once;
The BP check can be done in several ways.
We will talk about the sequence of each of the checks below, and now we will only limit ourselves to short information to understand what we will do.
The essence of the first method is to check the voltage supply and at this stage we perform a rough check - is there voltage or not.
The second way is to check the output voltage, we have already mentioned that the voltage must be strictly within certain limits and a deviation in any direction is unacceptable.
The third way is to visually inspect the PSU for swollen capacitors.
For convenience of perception, the algorithm of each of the checks will be presented in the form step by step instructions.
Checking the voltage supply by the power supply
Step 1.
Step 2
Remember or take a picture for convenience, how the power was connected to each of the components (motherboard, hard drives, optical drive, etc.), after which they should be disconnected from the PSU.
Step 3 Find a paper clip. With a paper clip, we will close the contacts on the PSU, and if it was not at hand, a wire similar to a paper clip in length and diameter will do.
After that, the paper clip must be bent in the form of the Latin letter "U".
Step 4 Find the 20/24 pin power connector. This connector is very easy to find - it is a bundle of 20 or 24 wires, respectively, that come from the power supply and connect to the PC motherboard.
Step 5 Find the green and black wires on the connector. Insert a paper clip into the connectors to which these wires are connected.
The paperclip must be securely fixed and have contact with the appropriate connectors.
Step 6
Step 7 Checking the operation of the PSU fan. If the device is working and conducts current, then the fan located in the PSU case should rotate when voltage is applied.
If the fan does not rotate, check the contact of a paper clip on the green and black connectors of the 20/24 pin connector.
As mentioned above, this check does not guarantee that the device is working. This check allows you to determine that the power supply is turning on.
For a more accurate diagnosis, the following test is necessary.
Checking the correct operation of the power supply
Step 1. Turn off computer. It must be remembered that the computer power supply unit operates with a voltage dangerous for humans - 220V.
Step 2 Open the side cover of the system unit.
Remember or for convenience, take a picture of how the power is connected to each of the components (motherboard, hard drives, optical drive, etc.), after which they should be disconnected from the PSU.
Step 3 Find the 20/24 pin power connector.
This connector is very easy to find because of its larger size - it is a bundle of 20 or 24 wires, respectively, that come from the power supply and connect to the PC motherboard.
Step 4 Find the connectors for the black, red, yellow, pink wires on the 20/24 pin connector.
Step 5 Carry out the load of the PSU. In the future, we will measure the output voltage of the power supply.
AT normal mode The PSU operates under load, providing power to the motherboard, hard drives, optical drives, fans.
Measuring the output voltage of a power supply unit that is not under load can lead to a fairly high error.
Note! An external 12V fan, an optical drive or an old hard drive, as well as combinations of these devices, can be used as a load.
Step 6 Turn on the power supply. Power up the PSU (do not forget to turn on the power button on the PSU itself, if it was turned off in Step 1).
Step 7 Take a voltmeter and measure the output voltage of the PSU. Output voltage We will measure the power supply on the pairs of wires indicated in Step 3. The reference voltage for the black and pink wires is - 3.3V, black and red - 5V, black and yellow - 12V.
The deviation of the specified values in the amount of ± 5% is allowed. So the voltage is:
3.3V should be within 3.14 - 3.47V;
5V should be within 4.75 - 5.25V;
12V should be between 11.4 - 12.6V.
Visual inspection of the power supply
Step 1. Turn off computer. It must be remembered that the computer power supply unit operates with a voltage dangerous for humans - 220V.
Step 2 Open the side cover of the system unit.
Remember or take a picture for convenience, how the power is connected to each of the components (motherboard, hard drives, optical drive, etc.), after which they should be disconnected from the power supply.
Highly common cause malfunctions personal computer is the failure of the power supply. The main symptom will be the fact that your computer won't turn on.
In order to confirm the failure of this part of the computer, you need to test the power supply. Let's consider several methods for such a check (they are no more difficult than the methods for checking RAM).
The main function of the power supply is to convert the incoming voltage to the required value.
Checking with a paperclip
The easiest way to check the power supply is to use a regular paper clip. As part of this method, we will try to turn on the power supply without a computer and check if it works.
To do this, you will need a paper clip, a power supply and a device for the load. After disconnecting the computer from the network, you must remove the power supply. As a load, you can use a standard 80-mm cooler or an optical drive. (if there is one in the system unit). It is also possible to use them together.
We connect the power supply and in the largest 24-pin connector we look for a contact with a green and black wire. There is more than one black wire, so you can use any. Usually use the contact that is nearby.
The closure must be done short. If the power supply is still working, then the fan of the power supply itself, as well as the 80-mm one, will begin to rotate. The connected drive will signal with a green light. If none of this happened, then the power supply is faulty.
visual inspection
If a guarantee period the power supply is already over, then you can conduct an internal visual inspection, which can clearly confirm the malfunction of this device. Before starting disassembly, be sure to disconnect the power supply from the mains! After removing the cover, you can see the following picture:
In this case, no additional devices not needed to determine the fault. In the last hours of operation of such a PSU, you could hear the smell of burning. Overheating and subsequent failure can also be caused by a malfunction of the cooling system. As a rule, this is a characteristic disease of cheap Chinese power supplies.
The presence of one or more "swollen" capacitors will also confirm a malfunction. But not always replacing them can restore performance. It is necessary to pay attention during such an inspection to the protection element - the fuse. If it is burned out, then the power supply can start only after replacing it.
Block failed:
Checking with additional equipment
There are more difficult ways checks. The first method is characterized by using a multimeter to measure the output voltages. The simplest pointer or digital will do. measuring device that you need to know how to use.
In addition, you need to know allowable stresses power supply outputs. Finding them on the Internet is not difficult. Depending on the obtained indicators, it will be possible to determine the health of the power supply. Particular attention should be paid to the standby voltage. This is the red wire.
A device for testing power supplies has recently appeared on the market. (tester) It greatly facilitates the receipt of voltage readings. It is only necessary to connect all the main connectors and the actual output indicators will be shown on the display of the device.
At the same time, you need to work with such a device carefully. When wrong connection connectors, the power supply may not be affected, but the tester can be guaranteed to fail. You need to be extremely careful. We compare the obtained data with the nominal indicators, which in the end will confirm the performance of the power supply or its absence.