Interior designers at all times sought to give the room in which a person lives as much comfort as possible. The development of science and technology has made it possible to make ours not only beautiful and cozy, but also convenient, comfortable and safe. Bulky, spoiling their appearance all decoration of the apartment. All modern technical assistants of a person organically fit into the general one - they imperceptibly “hide” by designers in niches, podiums, disguise themselves as furniture, etc. In addition, they open doors to designers for large-scale experiments with the design of premises. About one of these achievements of technical thought - about wireless lighting in the apartment - we'll talk today.

Making a large-scale one, many often faced the problem of inconvenient wiring location - either it was in the wrong place, or, not knowing its exact location, the wires were damaged during the repair work. In addition, the presence of classic stationary wiring in the house, in many cases, excludes the possibility of "fantasizing" on the subject of lighting in the room, or significantly complicates the implementation of certain "lighting" ideas. With the advent of technology such as wireless lighting, it has become much easier to implement many design ideas.



What is wireless lighting ? This is a structure consisting of two layers (representing a single panel with light bulbs built into it) that conduct current inside themselves. Thanks to "mobility", they can be installed on almost any surface, anywhere in the apartment; in addition, they allow you to get rid of excess wires in the room.


Do you want to create a glowing pattern on the ceiling? It can be laid out from panels with the corresponding pattern of light bulbs - and now the endless night sky is already spread over your head or butterflies are hovering. By the way, you can make a drawing from light bulbs yourself - for this you just need to make holes in right places(along the planned lines of the image), and insert small light bulbs there - you get a luminous ornament. In principle, larger lamps are mounted in the same way, but, of course, the picture is not laid out of them - but they can be placed on the panel exactly as you need.

With the help of wireless panels, you can also mount lighting on the floor - in this case, you will achieve the effect of soaring - it will be created by highlighting the furnishings from below. Wireless lighting can also be installed on the wall, creating a glow-in-the-dark ornament - this will also give a special atmosphere to the room at night.

Speaking of designer advantages of wireless lighting It is impossible not to mention that both the panels themselves differ in a wide variety (by the way, there is the possibility of their double-sided use, which allows the panels to be used in room partitions), as well as the lamps mounted in them - so you can choose the right option for a particular room design . In addition, the panels themselves are not afraid to expose to any kind of finish - from pasting with paper (wallpaper) to plastering. So, the possibility of "masking" panels is also very diverse.


So, wireless lighting opens up a lot of opportunities for designers - just due to lighting alone, located in the right places, you can transform beyond recognition. Besides, Wireless lighting has many other advantages. ; we list some of them:
-First of all, these are physical characteristics such as light weight and thickness of the panels, which allow using wireless lighting without compromising the area of ​​the room
- high level of sound insulation and strength of the panels
- the ability to work under voltage 12 V, but the panel itself does not consume electricity
- reliable electrical insulation and high moisture resistance

At the same time, a reservation should be made that the last two qualities of wireless lighting largely depend on the correct installation of the panels, which we will discuss later, in parallel pointing out some of the disadvantages of this type of lighting. They - alas, are, and it is better to know about them in advance.


So, despite all the advantages of wireless lighting, it is still classified by experts as a secondary light source and, as a rule, requires the presence of main lighting in the room. However, wireless lighting may be the only one, for example, where bright light is not required - in a word, the possibility of using only wireless panels in rooms is also dictated by the purpose of the room.

The panels themselves are made of polyurethane, which is an artificial material, and, therefore, such lighting is not suitable, for example, for. In addition, despite the variety of panels, there is still a restriction on their use - for example, it is allowed to use panels at least 10 cm wide.

Any lighting, even wireless, must be installed in compliance with the safety rules for the operation of electrical equipment. With regard to wireless lighting, it is important to observe the following points:
- if the installation of wireless panels is carried out using metal fastening structures, then additional insulation of metal parts is required in order to prevent short circuits. That is why, such panels are recommended to be mounted on liquid nails.
- the operation of wireless panels requires the mandatory installation of additional equipment - a step-down transformer and a connector that can be attached to the panel itself at the point where the power wires are output. Five panels can be connected to one connector.

Even though installing wireless panels is considered easy enough, if you have no experience with electrical equipment, it is still worth asking for help from specialists.

Creation - hard work. But lately, designers have come to the rescue the latest technology, allowing you to experiment with the space of the room, changing it to your own taste. Wireless lighting in the apartment - this is a great opportunity to bring the latest achievements of technical thought into your home, and beautifully decorate the surrounding space of the house.

Technological advances make life easier. Surely, many had no idea before that it would be possible to create lighting in an apartment or house without unnecessary wires. However, now wireless lighting in the apartment is finding more and more fans.



Peculiarities

Wireless lighting allows you to take a fresh look at the issue of light control. Externally, such a system looks like a set of special equipment. After installing it, you will be able to control lighting fixtures with greater comfort than with a conventional switch.

Control is carried out using a special control panel. Outwardly, it looks like a regular remote control from a TV or a split system (or like a stationary switch).

You can choose both options - according to your desire.


The wireless lighting system consists of a radio relay and a switch (remote control). The radio relay, when receiving a signal, opens or closes electrical circuit– when you send it using the remote control. The radio relay must be installed close to light fixture- or inside, if there is room for it. If we talk about spot lighting, then the radio relay can be installed between the main and stretch ceilings.

When you press the switch button, an electrical impulse is created (using a generator built into it). Then it is converted into a radio signal, which picks up the radio relay.

If the system can not only turn the light on and off, but also make the lighting brighter or dimmer, then the set will also include a dimmer.



Advantages

The main advantages of such devices:

  • You do not have to damage the walls by wiring. Imagine how much time you save by not doing this.
  • Such switches can be installed anywhere in the room. You can install such a device even on a cabinet, on a mirror. Ordinary switches are sometimes installed in such a way that they interfere with moving furniture if necessary.
  • The easy installation process of such a system is clear even to those who have never dealt with such issues.
  • The wireless light control system is considered safe enough, as it has no wiring. This may be especially true in houses made of wood.


  • Many people want to be able to turn the lights on or off from different parts of the room (or even from different rooms). Such a system makes it possible to translate this into reality. This eliminates the need to run wires to each switch. Of course, if desired, you can use the remote control.
  • The operating range of such devices is quite wide and is approximately 300 meters. It depends on the model you have chosen.
  • Wireless switches have a stylish design, such devices make the interior more interesting. Wireless lighting in the apartment allows you to decorate the interior of the room very beautifully, in an original and tasteful way, but more on that later.


Flaws

There are a lot of advantages, but there are also disadvantages:

  1. The price of such systems is much higher than the cost of conventional switches.
  2. If the batteries in the remote control run out or wifi signal becomes weak, it will be impossible to control the system.




Wireless panels

The advent of wireless lighting has made it possible to take a broader look at the creation of apartment design using lamps. This option is a panel with LEDs built into it, which work wirelessly due to the presence of conductive layers. These panels are very thin.


It is worth noting that such panels provide a variety of decoration options that consumers cannot but like.



Varieties

Usually everything wireless systems similar to each other, but still there are some differences. For example, there are switches that operate on a Wi-Fi network or using radio waves.

The touch switches are just touched to activate them (or they may have a push-button system). They may differ from each other in the possible number of connections.

If the system has a delayed shutdown feature, this will allow you to lie down in bed with the lights on.

Some systems are equipped with a motion sensor. The light in such systems turns on when you enter the room. At the same time, the motion sensor can be configured in such a way that it reacts only to a person. Therefore, before choosing a lighting set, it is important to decide what exactly you expect from it.


Models

A switch that is easy enough to operate - model Coco AWST-8802. Has only two keys. The device is powered by batteries, so it can be installed anywhere in the house. With this switch you can control lights, electrical appliances and blinds.

Create high-quality lighting for completely different rooms help modern technologies and a variety of lighting fixtures. A wide range of goods allows you to choose practical and high-quality products at affordable prices.

Increasing comfort and simplifying everyday tasks has led to an increase in demand for cutting-edge wireless luminaire models. Such devices will help to organize the necessary level of illumination for the whole house and not only.

Let's take a closer look at wireless lighting devices in order to understand which lamp is better in terms of characteristics.

Where are wireless lighting technologies used?

Due to the mass of positive qualities, wireless lamps have a wide range of applications. With their help, you can arrange lighting for places such as:

  • residential premises, shopping centers and industrial facilities;
  • working and inner space cases, kitchen set, trade counters, show-windows;
  • the use of modern wireless lamps as nightlights to illuminate home spaces;
  • other dark places where lighting is sometimes very problematic, for example, attic, basement, garage;
  • street and building facade.

Lighting is turned on only when the sensor detects motion signals in the monitored area. To minimize errors in the operation of sensors, it is required to fine-tune it.

Pros and cons of wireless equipment

Today, not only wireless velcro lamps have become very popular, but the whole the lineup wireless lighting equipment.

The increase in demand is directly related to the mass of positive characteristics when using it, these include:

  • ease of installation, wiring of electrical cables is not required, in most cases the devices are equipped with convenient mounts for their installation;
  • affordable price, everyone can equip the whole house with such lighting fixtures thanks to low prices and high quality;
  • energy independence, connection to electricity is not required, and when it is turned off, such lamps can become the main and independent source of lighting;
  • automatic operation, when equipped with motion sensors, the lamp turns off and on independently
  • compactness and the ability to install lighting almost anywhere;
  • wide selection. The ability to choose a product that will be able to solve a specific problem. They differ in size, construction, design, type of light.


The advantages of such devices can also include smaller dimensions and light weight, which in turn allows them to be mounted on various surfaces.

Every day, wall-mounted wireless lights, like all wireless products in general, are becoming more popular. The disadvantages that exist when using such lamps:

  • battery operation. Such a condition in the operation of wireless equipment is not critical, but not always convenient, since in order to replace the batteries it is necessary to get to the location of the batteries;
  • the use of non-natural materials in the manufacture of lamps, which must be taken into account when placing wireless devices in the room and near heating devices or elements.

It is worth noting that the disadvantages here are much less than the advantages, but it is necessary to take into account all the nuances before installing the lamps.

Exists great amount wireless lighting devices, when choosing them, you should pay attention to several key points:

When arranging lighting for a living space, it is recommended to install several wall and ceiling lamps of medium power; in the event of one of them being discharged, other lamps will support the lighting.

For street lighting, a powerful LED lamp equipped with motion sensors will be more practical.

Wireless lamps with increased moisture resistance can be seen in the photo should be used not only to illuminate the street, but also for the bathroom of the equestrian room, as well as the kitchen, rooms where the level of humidity is high.

One of the parameters affecting the size of the illuminated area is the scattering angle. It is the size of this parameter that distinguishes long-range models (for illuminating an area located far from the light source) from lamps with a uniform glow (for illuminating an area located close to the light source).


Battery capacity (batteries). It is this property that affects the duration of autonomous operation of the lamp. As the main light source for residential premises, as a rule, a luminaire with a large battery capacity is used. Products with small and medium capacity can be used for street lighting or as an additional light source.

The modern range of wireless lighting products for indoor and outdoor areas is a great solution that will save you from unnecessary wires. In addition, their installation provides a lot of advantages, with minor drawbacks, and thanks to the huge range, you can choose a device that will solve any problem with lighting.

Photo of wireless lamps

January 28, 2016, 01:28


Despite the presence on the market of a fairly large number of companies dealing with Smart Home systems, most of them require deep integration into the existing electrician of your apartment, house or office. Prices for such devices from well-known manufacturers are also not encouraging, in especially neglected cases, you will have to part with a four-figure sum for just one remote control lighting. And I'm not talking about rubles or hryvnia.

But in the last few years, the situation has changed dramatically. One after another, companies are born that offer home automation systems with good functionality at delicious prices. The company "" has been producing lighting control devices since 1997, provided me with their Mini Kit for review " Smart House in 1 hour”, which I will try to tell you in the most accessible form today. Looking ahead and to avoid premature comments, I’ll say that the set from the Belarusian company will not turn your home into a really “smart” one, but at least it will allow you to get one step closer to this goal.

The text may contain and certainly contains grammatical, spelling, punctuation and other types of errors, including semantic ones. I do my best to ask readers to point out these errors and correct me through private messages.

▌About the company's products and the reviewed set


Now "Nootekhnika" sells two sets for self installation: Mini and Maxi Kit. The latter is characterized by the ability to manage more load groups and is equipped with additional temperature/humidity and motion sensors. I got the Mini Kit and it consists of:

The red wire that extends outside the case is a jumper that determines the mode of operation of the unit. Initially, the unit operates in relay mode, i.e. simply turns the load on and off. Breaking this connection puts the device into dimming mode, which makes it possible to adjust the power of the corresponding devices (incandescent lamps, heaters, fans, etc.).

Blocks of the "SU" type appeared on sale quite recently, before that dimmable (SN, ST) and "relay" (SL) blocks were sold as separate devices. There are only 5 models in the SU series, which differ in maximum switching power: 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, 3.5 kW. There are also modules included in the phase break (SB series), waterproof blocks for outdoor use (SR series) and a controller led strip(SD series). The catalog of power blocks with prices can be viewed on the official website of Nootekhnika at, there are also all existing models and for the SU111 series of blocks.

Switches (radio transmitters)
The delivery set includes two remote controls: PU311-2 and PU313-2. The company has a great variety of remotes, although in fact there are only 3 structurally different versions plus a keychain remote. The PU series has two revisions, which are designated as the prefix "1" and "2" at the end of the name. These are switches with touch keys in white or beige and they differ primarily in the functionality of the keys themselves (they are not universal, despite the fact that they are touch-sensitive).

The working area of ​​the remote control is matte to the touch, and the frame, which is its basis, is made of glossy plastic. In the left upper corner There is an indication LED that is activated every time one of the buttons is pressed.

The remote control is powered by CR2032 batteries. Guaranteed Time battery life consoles is 1 year, but in reality it should turn out much more. On the official website of the company, that when using the remote control 48 times a day (with a standard battery capacity of 210-240 mAh), the remote control will last for 3.8 years, taking into account the self-discharge of the battery. 1 year guaranteed the maximum declared range (50 meters) is maintained in the first 1-1.5 years of operation. As such, the remote control does not have a low battery indicator; later, it will be possible to determine a dead battery by a dimly lit indicator at the time the command is transmitted.

Consoles are available in one, two or three channels. An unlimited number of power blocks can be assigned to each channel. The main thing here is not to get confused, since up to 32 remote controls can be tied to the blocks. The maximum operating range in open space is 50 meters. I experimented with the range and this is what I can say: the unit receives and executes commands at the declared distance, provided that the window of the room in which it is installed is in direct line of sight. With reinforced concrete floors, everything is a little more complicated: in the entrance of a panel high-rise, the block is enough for 2-3 floors, then the signal no longer passes. Within the apartment, of course, there are no problems.

The third version of the remote that I mentioned at the beginning is . As such, there is no switch in this case, there is only a block transmitter for connecting to return (push-button) switches. Here is the tactile response desired by many and the ability to use switches of any design you like. Remote control, a variety of wall switches and their cost can be seen on.

Ethernet gateway
It connects to the local network and acts as an intermediary between the nooLite system and computers or mobile devices. It looks like a small black box with an external antenna. The package includes a power supply and a patch cord for connecting it to a router or modem.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

The Ethernet Gateway does not have direct access to the Internet and operates in local network. It also does not know how to request a DHCP address and is available only at 192.168.0.168, which can be changed to another one during subsequent configuration. I cannot fail to note that ordinary user connection problems may occur this device, especially if the given static address is already in use by someone on the subnet. But I will talk about this later.

Motion sensor PM111
It was purchased separately in order to equip one of the rooms with automatic lighting control. In terms of size, it is identical to the wall switches included in the Mini Kit, and in terms of its functions, it completely resembles them, because. simply sends an on and off command to the pre-associated power unit.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

The PM111 is powered by two AAA batteries (included), and their charge should be enough for at least a year of operation. When the charge level is critical, the LED placed under the thermal sensor lens will notify you with three short flashes repeating every 8 seconds. There are three trimmers on the rear panel for setting: the response threshold depending on the illumination (1 ... 100 lumens), the turn-off time after operation (5 s ... 21.8 minutes) and the sensitivity of the sensor. Parallel operation is supported with any remotes from nooLite. For review: the sensor in and its.

▌Installation and configuration using the example of your own home

The most interesting is the installation. I am a little afraid of electricians, despite the fact that I am friends with electronics. For reasons unknown to me, she sharpens her teeth at me and, as soon as the opportunity is turned up, she tries to show her superiority. This time there were no incidents, it is really possible to install a set in an hour, if everything is planned and prepared in advance.

I will show the installation using the example of the apartment in which I now live. This is a rental property, the owner of which agreed to the installation of the system and my subsequent “fun” with the apartment, provided that everything returns to its place at the exit. We have an unremarkable one-room apartment in a panel type house with the following lighting scheme:


The model was created in the program. ceiling chandeliers for clarity, replaced by lamps

Even before receiving the kit, it was decided to purchase a motion sensor and an additional power unit, since one of the light sources would lose control if the Mini Kit was used in its “pure” form. The application scheme ended up looking like this:

By default, instead of the fourth block, block No. 3 is assigned to the third channel of the remote control, but for experimental purposes it was decided to swap them. The binding / unbinding process is quite simple and is described both in a separate one and in a full-fledged one for the entire system. The second and third channels of the remotes control the light in the bathroom and the hallway, which is essentially good example implementation pass-through switch, only without wires.

I started connecting the power units from the living room, having previously de-energized that part of the apartment's electrical network that is responsible for lighting. Additionally, I recommend getting an indicator screwdriver (if not already) to check the lack of potential on the lines you are going to work with. The process of dismantling the chandelier did not cause any difficulties, but obscenely twisted wires, although not surprising, still left some residue.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

Two white wires coming from the unit are connected to the mains, and two black wires to the subsequent load. A set of 12 WAGO lever terminals is provided for connection. If you are still twisting, then stop immediately, I advise you to at least read here on Geektimes and the comments to it (there is valuable information on another such article).

In the "Vagovskie" terminals, you can also clamp a copper single-core and stranded wire. I learned this fact already in the process of writing the article, so the stranded wires from the chandelier were previously tinned. I stripped the conductors sticking out of the ceiling in order to remove the oxides formed on them.

The block did not fit into the chandelier bowl, so it was left outside. If there was a neutral wire in the mounting box of the old switch, then it would be possible to place the block there or be in the set a power block. The unit's antenna (white wire) must not be cut, twisted or hidden in metal bowls to avoid shielding.

In the kitchen, the block also did not fit into the plastic cover of the "chandelier". Yes, in quotation marks, because this is a stupid wire with a cartridge on which a hefty white cap was previously put on, absorbing a huge part of the light flux. It's time to lobby for the purchase of normal lamps. In the bathroom and corridor, similar steps were taken to install power blocks.

For absolutely all points, 300-watt units are redundant, since I use 20-watt fluorescent energy-saving lamps. In the living room, the total power consumption is 60 watts. Even taking into account the two-fold power reserve recommended by the manufacturer (especially when placed in places where air convection is difficult), such units are still redundant. With incandescent lamps comparable in luminous flux with my installed energy-saving lamps the situation would be diametrically opposed. Most likely it will not fail, but it will feel very “hot”.

Installing switches is much easier than connecting power units. They can be placed as you like and anywhere, with the exception of mounting on metal surfaces. By default, the mounting panel implies installation using self-tapping screws or pre-applied tape strips.

We remove the old switch and, using the same WAGO terminals, close the wires as if the switch was on all the time. As it turned out, the mounting box in the case of this switch is simply absent and the latter was inserted stupidly (precisely stupidly) into the drywall slot.


Yes, the yellow-green wire is the phase for connecting the corridor lamp. Sad, right?

The native tape strips are too small for the resulting hole, so my favorite double-sided foam tape went into action. Now I'm afraid that during the subsequent dismantling I will tear off the mounting frame with a piece of plasterboard wall.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

Everything, one switch is installed and ready to use. With the second one, I at one time rushed around the room deciding where to place it - by the bed or in the same place near the sofa. In the photo below, during the experiments, it was installed along with a stationary switch, which was later completely dismantled.

But the remote control by the bed is also convenient, despite the ability to control the light from a watch or smartphone. Therefore, the purchase and installation thereof is not far off. On the this moment lighting control scheme is as follows:

Where B are blocks, P are remotes, and D is a motion sensor. The latter, similar to remotes, can be mounted on self-tapping screws or double-sided tape. To begin with, a small piece of adhesive tape is enough, since you will most likely have to thoroughly “play around” with the placement of the sensor. At the maximum sensitivity set, its viewing angle, which was revealed experimentally, reaches 120-130 degrees, and the operating range completely covers my kitchen (2.5 x 2.5 meters). After some experimentation, the sensor was placed on one of the kitchen drawers so that it was not affected by the local cooking lights and the lamps in the hood above the stove.


At the moment, the sensor is located on the right side of the handle

The sensor is triggered instantly, but there is still a slight delay due to the fluorescent lamp - it does not turn on immediately. I set the shutdown time to about 10 minutes. The sensor, it seems, should check for movement before sending a shutdown command to the unit, but I either freeze at these moments, or the sensor simply does not notice me. As a result, the light goes out and you have to wait 4-5 seconds to re-check the presence of movement. The light threshold was set to 30% of the state when the sensor is constantly on and detecting movements. At this level, the operation occurs even on especially cloudy winter days, which is what I was trying to achieve.

As for the snag regarding this sensor that I mentioned earlier. Imagine that in addition to the sensor itself, the controlled unit is tied to a wall console, for manual control lighting in the kitchen, as in my case. Neither sensors nor remotes have feedback and if the light in the kitchen turns on as a result of the motion sensor triggering, and you turn it off using the remote control or the web interface, which will be discussed later, the motion sensor will continue to think that the light is turned on with its help and will continue to count down the pre-set 10 minutes, to send a power off command. Did you get the gist? When re-entering the kitchen after turning off the light manually, the sensor will not work. Therefore, I untied this unit from all remotes, including the “Turn off all” scenario channel, since the motion sensor itself is able to turn off the light in the kitchen in the absence of movement.

Scenario channels are a topic no less interesting. In the "Nootechnics" catalog you can find both consoles with one scenario key, and with all three. Scenarios allow you to manage an unlimited number of blocks (this is the basic ability of the remote control): turn them all off at the same time, turn on the corresponding block for a preliminarily set level brightness or color (for LED strip) or turn on the required group of fixtures. Only one action can be performed using one channel, i.e. turning on and off a group of lamps with one key will not work. More about the scripting capabilities is written in (Chapter 6) for the entire nooLite system. In general, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with it before buying - this will save you from most questions.

Ethernet Gateway, Controlled by mobile devices and Pebble watches
I'll tell you for now only about the basic capabilities of the gateway. Information about the API and its integration into other Smart Home systems deserves a separate article. During installation, the manufacturer recommends separating the router and the Ethernet gateway by at least half a meter, because Wi-Fi network signal interferes with signal reception in temperature/humidity sensors. In the younger set, of course, there are no latter, but why not play it safe for the future?

Special thanks to the developers for the green indicator (!) LED, and not the flashy blue spotlight that Chinese manufacturers like to use (Xiaomi standing next to it, despite the blue LED, is an exception).

The first inclusion in the local network was not successful. Firstly, my network is built on addresses like 192.168.1.x, which has already made the gateway work impossible. Okay, we are transferring the subnet to 192.168.0.x, but nothing is still happening, it is not possible to enter the address 192.168.0.168. I assume that this address on the network is already occupied by one of the home devices and I directly connect the gateway to the computer using a patch cord. I assign the computer the address 192.168.0.1 with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0.

Everything, now there is an opportunity to go to the gateway and even play around with turning the lighting on and off. I recommend upgrading to current version Software, and change the standard gateway address to the one allocated to it in the settings of your router. detailed instructions There is a flashing in - I see no reason to repeat once again. There is already a third version of the software, but the second one is up-to-date and stable, while the gateway itself comes with the first version. The web interface is updated separately from the update software and is the second step in the overall upgrade process. The firmware itself can be downloaded from the Nootekhnika website.

The main innovations of the second version are the authorization setting, which didn’t exist at all before (any person on the local network could control the lighting knowing only the gateway address), the Sunrise and Sunset functions, which will be discussed later, and, in fact, the ability to “forward” required port to access the gateway from the external network. To do this, you need to have an external static IP address (as a rule, you can order from your provider, rent costs about $1-2 per month) and perform a set of simple manipulations with your router. Instructions on this topic are in the archive with files for updating.

The main function of the gateway is to mediate between devices on the local network and the radio lighting control system. With this task, the gateway, which is not surprising, copes. On the start page web interface, the blocks pre-associated with the gateway and pre-installed scripts are displayed.

Inside the menu item responsible for a specific block, there are two buttons and an impromptu LED. In the case of dimmable blocks, a "slider" is added to the page to set the desired level of illumination.

In addition to the "Turn off all" scenario, there are "Morning" and "Evening" functions. All of them are independent and are not synchronized in any way with the scenario channels on the switches due to the absence of any feedback.

Writing a script is easy enough. You need to turn on, turn off or set to a certain power all the lights that you want to use in the scenario and click the "Save" button. In this way, you can create any scenario, for example, “Watching a movie”, when the lights in the entire apartment turn off, and a sconce or something like that is activated near the bed at minimum power.

In addition to scenarios, it is possible to set 8 weekly timers (icon in the upper right corner) and use them in scenarios. Here we can recall the functions "Dawn" and "Sunset" added to the second version of the software. With the help of weekly timers, you can set, for example, that from Monday to Friday at 8 am the "Dawn" action will be performed, as a result of which the selected group of lamps (scenario, in fact) is activated with a smooth increase in brightness. This mode will work only in case of using dimmable lamps and correspondingly configured power units.

In principle, that's all, this is where the main possibilities for controlling lighting from the gateway through the web interface end. Information on connecting sensors and working with them is in the user manual, which I have already.

In general, the interface does not look very good on computers with large monitors. originally designed for mobile devices. Applications under , and in turn are stripped-down versions of the web interface, because there are no opportunities to create timers, scripts, bind and unbind blocks, and much more. Sliding switches are used to turn the load on or off in the case of the Android client. Already created scenarios can be overwritten directly in the application.


After a whole month of operating the system, I never once used the web interface, simply because there was no need for it. From a smartphone, I played with the light several times to demonstrate the system to friends and a couple of times in bed when the watch was left on the table. With regard to watches, everything is completely different. I resorted to their help every time I forgot to turn off the light with the switch. Yes, in the future I will most likely add another remote control near the bed (for a girl, for example), but so far they are doing quite well with this task.

As for the application for Pebble itself, Vlad Zaitsev (vvzvlad) is very reasonable when he talked about the excursion to the production of the Nootekhnika company. I subsequently got used to the logic of the application in just a couple of days, so you can still use it. There is also an app for Apple Watch, but I don't have an Apple Watch, so I won't show it to you.

▌Why do I (you) need this? Application of the nooLite system

Along with the solutions used in my apartment, I will show a few more examples of using this system.

1. Banal opportunity to place switch anywhere in the room: at the computer, bed, near the sofa or even on the window. No wiring needed. It is enough to purchase a power unit with a double power reserve and any remote control you like. More about it.

2. Through switch. most often used in corridors, where one switch is installed at the beginning of it, and the other at the end. The person who entered the corridor turns on the light with the first switch, and at the exit turns it off with the second switch. Have you calculated how many wires you need to lay in the wall? How about adding another switch?


One power block and two switches completely solve this problem. In the case of a completed repair, it will come out even cheaper than re-chasing the walls.

3. Use in wooden houses where there are special requirements for the installation of electrical wiring. For those who did not know, hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses is at least not recommended, and in the case of using corrugated PVC pipes, it is completely prohibited. In general, the standards for wooden structures are quite strict and those who adhere to the rules and fear for their lives will have to spend either on good hidden wiring in metal sleeves, or cover a beautiful tree with a 10 mm layer of plaster and lay the wiring under it. In the case of open wiring, the so-called “retro wiring” using stylized cable and ceramic insulators has recently gained popularity. The solution is beautiful, but far from the most practical, time-consuming and costly.

4. Wireless motion sensor for automatic control lighting. Of course, I would like to see more sensors in various form factors in the arsenal of Nootekhnika, but even what we have already allows us to automate the lighting in the apartment and save on electricity. The main advantage of the monitored sensor is the absence of wires. Typically, these devices are included in the break of the phase wire of the lamp and additionally require zero for power. Those. both installation and subsequent movement of the sensor is complicated in case of unsuccessful placement. More about it.

5. Light control from watch, computer and mobile devices located on the same local network. You can, of course, get tired and purchase a static IP address from the provider, forward a port to an Ethernet gateway and completely control lighting from anywhere in the world, but given the lack of feedback from the units of the nooLite system, the rationality of this solution, in my personal opinion, comes down to zero.

I'm afraid if I continue to describe all sorts of scenarios, I will go beyond the character limit set on the site for one article. More examples of using devices from Nootekhnika are on their website. And yet, I know that a similar control can be implemented on the Arduino or by assembling an independent device at all, so there is no need to write about it in the comments. It is better to calculate how long this will take you, and then multiply by the cost of one of your hours. Unless, of course, this is your hobby, but your wife, children or flatmates can put up with the lack of light due to the debugging work you are doing.

▌Operating experience or answers to some questions

I am far from the first to write about this system - there were a lot of materials on, in various author's blogs, and even on. But from article to article the same questions arise. Thank you, in fact, the company itself for a good tech. support and periodic updates on its official website. But even there, not everything is there, and some information is completely outdated, therefore, within the framework of the article, I will answer a few questions that interested me personally and my friends.
    • How convenient are touch switches? How to be in the dark? Is there any backlight?
      No, there is no backlight, in the dark you will have to navigate by touch. In the switches of the first revision, it was more convenient to do this, since the buttons could be felt at the corners of the frame. In the second version, I periodically miss the center key. As such, pitch darkness does not happen in my house, it is always on either desk lamp, or a night light, and given my favorite “creative mess”, with all my courage, I won’t risk moving around the apartment in the middle of the night without, for example, a smartphone. If desired, you can change the touch switches to returnable using remotes.
    • Is it possible to turn on the light with the toe of the left foot in warm socks?
      You can at least left, even right, but either in thin conductive socks, or without them at all. You can also use your nose, yes. I'm not joking, because such situations happen.
    • What happens if the lights are turned off in the apartment? Blocks will lose their binding? In what state will they be after the resumption of power supply?
      Nothing will happen. In the event of an emergency power outage, the blocks will not lose their binding, since all information is stored in non-volatile memory. If we talk about units of the SU series, supplied in a set, they do not have the function of storing the state in case of loss of the 220 V network. For other models, see the company's website.
    • Is it easy to hack into the system and gain control over the management of lights and electrical appliances?
      Easy enough, because the system has no serious protection. What if you have an open wifi network and you are using an Ethernet gateway with the first version of the software, then it will be enough for any “passer-by” to connect to this network and go to the standard gateway address 192.168.0.168. For radio control, only 16 bits of the address are used, so it will take a few hours to search through the possible 65536 combinations. There is also no protection of the proprietary protocol, the signal from the remote control is easy to “catch” and record. Habré even had an article about . The question is, who might need to "hack" the lighting control system in the average apartment or house? Except for some dirty schoolchildren, but they usually have other methods that are welcome.
    • How to predict when the batteries in the remotes run out? I wouldn't want to be left in the middle of the night with no way to turn on the light.
      I have already raised this question above in the text, but still I repeat, since it really often arises. As such, the remotes do not have a discharge indication, but as they approach the critical charge level, the indication LED will glow dimmer and dimmer when transmitting commands. This is an indicator that it is time to replace the batteries. If during this time you do not bother to replace the batteries, and you are not at home (as a person capable of replacing the battery in the remote control) or, in fact, CR2032 batteries, then yes, there will be no opportunity to turn the light on or off.

▌Results

If you have read this article to the end, then you are at least a hero, since I have not yet written such large materials. It is simply unrealistic to cover all the variety of a seemingly simple system like nooLite in one article, I’m afraid to imagine what will happen if I get some full-fledged smart home controller with a bunch of peripherals for review. Probably, it would be possible to divide the review into two parts, but then there would be even more text. From this material, I excluded the chapter on the operation of the system at the data transfer level and the preparation of the main components, but I will definitely write it later.

I can safely recommend the official website of "Nootechnics" as a comprehensive source of information for further study of the system. Almost every device has detailed guides, video and brief infographics. In the same place, on the site, systems and its individual components, so there will be no traditional “Related Links” section at the end of the article.

As for the system itself, it not only deserves attention, it also costs its money. Hobby solutions based on Arduino and the like are still not plug & play devices and require painstaking installation and configuration, while advanced home automation systems based on Z-Wave or X10 protocols will cost a lot more.

What did you like
    • Basic system price (block switch)
    • Ease of installation and setup
    • System expandability
    • Management from mobile devices in the local network (especially from watches)
What did not like
    • No feedback, consoles and gateway are not synchronized in any way
    • The cost of the gateway and its functionality
What would you like
    • Any protection (data transfer protocol encryption)
    • Expanding the possibilities of scenario channels (the ability to turn the light on and off with one scenario button, double tap to assign additional functions)

▌Where to buy and how much?

In the Russian Federation, the set can be purchased at the Madrobots store. The cost of the minimum set discussed in the article is, and for almost 20 thousand will have to be paid. January 28, 2016, 01:28


Despite the presence on the market of a fairly large number of companies dealing with Smart Home systems, most of them require deep integration into the existing electrician of your apartment, house or office. Prices for such devices from well-known manufacturers are also not encouraging; in especially advanced cases, you will have to part with a four-figure sum for remote lighting control alone. And I'm not talking about rubles or hryvnia.

But in the last few years, the situation has changed dramatically. One after another, companies are born that offer home automation systems with good functionality at delicious prices. The company "" which has been producing lighting control devices since 1997, provided me with its Mini Kit "Smart Home in 1 Hour" for review, which I will try to talk about today in the most accessible form. Looking ahead and to avoid premature comments, I’ll say that the set from the Belarusian company will not turn your home into a really “smart” one, but at least it will allow you to get one step closer to this goal.

The text may contain and certainly contains grammatical, spelling, punctuation and other types of errors, including semantic ones. I do my best to ask readers to point out these errors and correct me through private messages.

▌About the company's products and the reviewed set


Now "Nootekhnika" sells two kits for self-installation: Mini and Maxi Kit. The latter is characterized by the ability to manage more load groups and is equipped with additional temperature/humidity and motion sensors. I got the Mini Kit and it consists of:

The red wire that extends outside the case is a jumper that determines the mode of operation of the unit. Initially, the unit operates in relay mode, i.e. simply turns the load on and off. Breaking this connection puts the device into dimming mode, which makes it possible to adjust the power of the corresponding devices (incandescent lamps, heaters, fans, etc.).

Blocks of the "SU" type appeared on sale quite recently, before that dimmable (SN, ST) and "relay" (SL) blocks were sold as separate devices. There are only 5 models in the SU series, which differ in maximum switching power: 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, 3.5 kW. There are also modules included in the phase break (SB series), waterproof blocks for outdoor use (SR series) and an LED strip controller (SD series). The catalog of power blocks with prices can be viewed on the official website of Nootekhnika at, there are also all existing models and for the SU111 series of blocks.

Switches (radio transmitters)
The delivery set includes two remote controls: PU311-2 and PU313-2. The company has a great variety of remotes, although in fact there are only 3 structurally different versions plus a keychain remote. The PU series has two revisions, which are designated as the prefix "1" and "2" at the end of the name. These are switches with touch keys in white or beige and they differ primarily in the functionality of the keys themselves (they are not universal, despite the fact that they are touch).

The working area of ​​the remote control is matte to the touch, and the frame, which is its basis, is made of glossy plastic. In the upper left corner there is an indication LED, which is triggered every time one of the buttons is pressed.

The remote control is powered by CR2032 batteries. The guaranteed battery life of the remotes is 1 year, but in reality it should turn out much more. On the official website of the company, that when using the remote control 48 times a day (with a standard battery capacity of 210-240 mAh), the remote control will last for 3.8 years, taking into account the self-discharge of the battery. 1 year guaranteed the maximum declared range (50 meters) is maintained in the first 1-1.5 years of operation. As such, the remote control does not have a low battery indicator; later, it will be possible to determine a dead battery by a dimly lit indicator at the time the command is transmitted.

Consoles are available in one, two or three channels. An unlimited number of power blocks can be assigned to each channel. The main thing here is not to get confused, since up to 32 remote controls can be tied to the blocks. The maximum operating range in open space is 50 meters. I experimented with the range and this is what I can say: the unit receives and executes commands at the declared distance, provided that the window of the room in which it is installed is in direct line of sight. With reinforced concrete floors, everything is a little more complicated: in the entrance of a panel high-rise, the block is enough for 2-3 floors, then the signal no longer passes. Within the apartment, of course, there are no problems.

The third version of the remote that I mentioned at the beginning is . As such, there is no switch in this case, there is only a block transmitter for connecting to return (push-button) switches. Here is the tactile response desired by many and the ability to use switches of any design you like. Remote control, a variety of wall switches and their cost can be seen on.

Ethernet gateway
It connects to the local network and acts as an intermediary between the nooLite system and computers or mobile devices. It looks like a small black box with an external antenna. The package includes a power supply and a patch cord for connecting it to a router or modem.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

The Ethernet gateway does not have direct access to the Internet and operates on a local network. It also does not know how to request a DHCP address and is available only at 192.168.0.168, which can be changed to another one during subsequent configuration. I can't help but note that the average user may have problems connecting this device, especially if this static address is already being used by someone on the subnet. But I will talk about this later.

Motion sensor PM111
It was purchased separately in order to equip one of the rooms with automatic lighting control. In terms of size, it is identical to the wall switches included in the Mini Kit, and in terms of its functions, it completely resembles them, because. simply sends an on and off command to the pre-associated power unit.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

The PM111 is powered by two AAA batteries (included), and their charge should be enough for at least a year of operation. When the charge level is critical, the LED placed under the thermal sensor lens will notify you with three short flashes repeating every 8 seconds. There are three trimmers on the rear panel for setting: the response threshold depending on the illumination (1 ... 100 lumens), the turn-off time after operation (5 s ... 21.8 minutes) and the sensitivity of the sensor. Parallel operation is supported with any remotes from nooLite. For review: the sensor in and its.

▌Installation and configuration using the example of your own home

The most interesting is the installation. I am a little afraid of electricians, despite the fact that I am friends with electronics. For reasons unknown to me, she sharpens her teeth at me and, as soon as the opportunity is turned up, she tries to show her superiority. This time there were no incidents, it is really possible to install a set in an hour, if everything is planned and prepared in advance.

I will show the installation using the example of the apartment in which I now live. This is a rental property, the owner of which agreed to the installation of the system and my subsequent “fun” with the apartment, provided that everything returns to its place at the exit. We have an unremarkable one-room apartment in a panel type house with the following lighting scheme:


The model was created in the program. Ceiling chandeliers for clarity are replaced by lamps

Even before receiving the kit, it was decided to purchase a motion sensor and an additional power unit, since one of the light sources would lose control if the Mini Kit was used in its “pure” form. The application scheme ended up looking like this:

By default, instead of the fourth block, block No. 3 is assigned to the third channel of the remote control, but for experimental purposes it was decided to swap them. The binding / unbinding process is quite simple and is described both in a separate one and in a full-fledged one for the entire system. The second and third channels of the remotes control the light in the bathroom and the corridor, which in fact is a clear example of the implementation of a walk-through switch, only without wires.

I started connecting the power units from the living room, having previously de-energized that part of the apartment's electrical network that is responsible for lighting. Additionally, I recommend getting an indicator screwdriver (if not already) to check the lack of potential on the lines you are going to work with. The process of dismantling the chandelier did not cause any difficulties, but obscenely twisted wires, although not surprising, still left some residue.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

Two white wires coming from the unit are connected to the mains, and two black wires to the subsequent load. A set of 12 WAGO lever terminals is provided for connection. If you are still twisting, then stop immediately, I advise you to at least read here on Geektimes and the comments to it (there is valuable information on another such article).

In the "Vagovskie" terminals, you can also clamp a copper single-core and stranded wire. I learned this fact already in the process of writing the article, so the stranded wires from the chandelier were previously tinned. I stripped the conductors sticking out of the ceiling in order to remove the oxides formed on them.

The block did not fit into the chandelier bowl, so it was left outside. If there was a neutral wire in the mounting box of the old switch, then it would be possible to place the block there or be in the set a power block. The unit's antenna (white wire) must not be cut, twisted or hidden in metal bowls to avoid shielding.

In the kitchen, the block also did not fit into the plastic cover of the "chandelier". Yes, in quotation marks, because this is a stupid wire with a cartridge on which a hefty white cap was previously put on, absorbing a huge part of the light flux. It's time to lobby for the purchase of normal lamps. In the bathroom and corridor, similar steps were taken to install power blocks.

For absolutely all points, 300-watt units are redundant, since I use 20-watt fluorescent energy-saving lamps. In the living room, the total power consumption is 60 watts. Even taking into account the two-fold power reserve recommended by the manufacturer (especially when placed in places where air convection is difficult), such units are still redundant. With incandescent lamps comparable in luminous flux to the energy-saving lamps I installed, the situation would be diametrically opposite. Most likely it will not fail, but it will feel very “hot”.

Installing switches is much easier than connecting power units. They can be placed as you like and anywhere, with the exception of mounting on metal surfaces. By default, the mounting panel implies installation using self-tapping screws or pre-applied tape strips.

We remove the old switch and, using the same WAGO terminals, close the wires as if the switch was on all the time. As it turned out, the mounting box in the case of this switch is simply absent and the latter was inserted stupidly (precisely stupidly) into the drywall slot.


Yes, the yellow-green wire is the phase for connecting the corridor lamp. Sad, right?

The native tape strips are too small for the resulting hole, so my favorite double-sided foam tape went into action. Now I'm afraid that during the subsequent dismantling I will tear off the mounting frame with a piece of plasterboard wall.

An album with additional photos, including pictures taken during the preparation process, is located at.

Everything, one switch is installed and ready to use. With the second one, I at one time rushed around the room deciding where to place it - by the bed or in the same place near the sofa. In the photo below, during the experiments, it was installed along with a stationary switch, which was later completely dismantled.

But the remote control by the bed is also convenient, despite the ability to control the light from a watch or smartphone. Therefore, the purchase and installation thereof is not far off. At the moment, the lighting control scheme is as follows:

Where B are blocks, P are remotes, and D is a motion sensor. The latter, similar to remotes, can be mounted on self-tapping screws or double-sided tape. To begin with, a small piece of adhesive tape is enough, since you will most likely have to thoroughly “play around” with the placement of the sensor. At the maximum sensitivity set, its viewing angle, which was revealed experimentally, reaches 120-130 degrees, and the operating range completely covers my kitchen (2.5 x 2.5 meters). After some experimentation, the sensor was placed on one of the kitchen drawers so that it was not affected by the local cooking lights and the lamps in the hood above the stove.


At the moment, the sensor is located on the right side of the handle

The sensor is triggered instantly, but there is still a slight delay due to the fluorescent lamp - it does not turn on immediately. I set the shutdown time to about 10 minutes. The sensor, it seems, should check for movement before sending a shutdown command to the unit, but I either freeze at these moments, or the sensor simply does not notice me. As a result, the light goes out and you have to wait 4-5 seconds to re-check the presence of movement. The light threshold was set to 30% of the state when the sensor is constantly on and detecting movements. At this level, the operation occurs even on especially cloudy winter days, which is what I was trying to achieve.

As for the snag regarding this sensor that I mentioned earlier. Let's imagine that in addition to the sensor itself, the controlled unit is tied to a wall-mounted remote control to manually control the lighting in the kitchen, as in my case. Neither sensors nor remotes have feedback, and if the light in the kitchen turns on as a result of the motion sensor, and you turn it off using the remote control or the web interface, which will be discussed later, the motion sensor will continue to think that the light is turned on with its help and will continue to count down the preset 10 minutes to send a blackout command. Did you get the gist? When re-entering the kitchen after turning off the light manually, the sensor will not work. Therefore, I untied this unit from all remotes, including the “Turn off all” scenario channel, since the motion sensor itself is able to turn off the light in the kitchen in the absence of movement.

Scenario channels are a topic no less interesting. In the "Nootechnics" catalog you can find both consoles with one scenario key, and with all three. Scenarios allow you to control an unlimited number of blocks (this is the basic ability of the remote control): turn them all off at the same time, turn on the corresponding block to a pre-set brightness or color level (for LED strip) or turn on the required group of fixtures. Only one action can be performed using one channel, i.e. turning on and off a group of lamps with one key will not work. More about the scripting capabilities is written in (Chapter 6) for the entire nooLite system. In general, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with it before buying - this will save you from most questions.

Ethernet gateway, control from mobile devices and Pebble watches
I'll tell you for now only about the basic capabilities of the gateway. Information about the API and its integration into other Smart Home systems deserves a separate article. During installation, the manufacturer recommends separating the router and the Ethernet gateway by at least half a meter, because Wi-Fi network signal interferes with signal reception in temperature/humidity sensors. In the younger set, of course, there are no latter, but why not play it safe for the future?

Special thanks to the developers for the green indicator (!) LED, and not the flashy blue spotlight that Chinese manufacturers like to use (Xiaomi standing next to it, despite the blue LED, is an exception).

The first inclusion in the local network was not successful. Firstly, my network is built on addresses like 192.168.1.x, which has already made the gateway work impossible. Okay, we are transferring the subnet to 192.168.0.x, but nothing is still happening, it is not possible to enter the address 192.168.0.168. I assume that this address on the network is already occupied by one of the home devices and I directly connect the gateway to the computer using a patch cord. I assign the computer the address 192.168.0.1 with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0.

Everything, now there is an opportunity to go to the gateway and even play around with turning the lighting on and off. First, I recommend updating to the latest software version, and changing the standard gateway address to the one allocated to it in the settings of your router. Detailed instructions for flashing are in - I see no reason to repeat once again. There is already a third version of the software, but the second one is up-to-date and stable, while the gateway itself comes with the first version. The web interface update is separate from the software update and is the second step in the overall update process. The firmware itself can be downloaded from the Nootekhnika website.

The main innovations of the second version are the authorization setting, which didn’t exist at all before (any person on the local network could control the lighting knowing only the gateway address), the Sunrise and Sunset functions, which will be discussed later, and, in fact, the ability to “forward” required port to access the gateway from the external network. To do this, you need to have an external static IP address (as a rule, you can order from your provider, rent costs about $1-2 per month) and perform a set of simple manipulations with your router. Instructions on this topic are in the archive with files for updating.

The main function of the gateway is to mediate between devices on the local network and the radio lighting control system. With this task, the gateway, which is not surprising, copes. The start page of the web interface displays blocks pre-associated with the gateway and pre-installed scripts.

Inside the menu item responsible for a specific block, there are two buttons and an impromptu LED. In the case of dimmable blocks, a "slider" is added to the page to set the desired level of illumination.

In addition to the "Turn off all" scenario, there are "Morning" and "Evening" functions. All of them are independent and are not synchronized in any way with the scenario channels on the switches due to the absence of any feedback.

Writing a script is easy enough. You need to turn on, turn off or set to a certain power all the lights that you want to use in the scenario and click the "Save" button. In this way, you can create any scenario, for example, “Watching a movie”, when the lights in the entire apartment turn off, and a sconce or something like that is activated near the bed at minimum power.

In addition to scenarios, it is possible to set 8 weekly timers (icon in the upper right corner) and use them in scenarios. Here we can recall the functions "Dawn" and "Sunset" added to the second version of the software. With the help of weekly timers, you can set, for example, that from Monday to Friday at 8 am the "Dawn" action will be performed, as a result of which the selected group of lamps (scenario, in fact) is activated with a smooth increase in brightness. This mode will work only in case of using dimmable lamps and correspondingly configured power units.

In principle, that's all, this is where the main possibilities for controlling lighting from the gateway through the web interface end. Information on connecting sensors and working with them is in the user manual, which I have already.

In general, the interface does not look very good on computers with large monitors. originally designed for mobile devices. Applications under , and in turn are stripped-down versions of the web interface, because there are no opportunities to create timers, scripts, bind and unbind blocks, and much more. Sliding switches are used to turn the load on or off in the case of the Android client. Already created scenarios can be overwritten directly in the application.


After a whole month of operating the system, I never once used the web interface, simply because there was no need for it. From a smartphone, I played with the light several times to demonstrate the system to friends and a couple of times in bed when the watch was left on the table. With regard to watches, everything is completely different. I resorted to their help every time I forgot to turn off the light with the switch. Yes, in the future I will most likely add another remote control near the bed (for a girl, for example), but so far they are doing quite well with this task.

As for the application for Pebble itself, Vlad Zaitsev (vvzvlad) is very reasonable when he talked about the excursion to the production of the Nootekhnika company. I subsequently got used to the logic of the application in just a couple of days, so you can still use it. There is also an Apple Watch app, but I don't have an Apple Watch so I won't show it to you.

▌Why do I (you) need this? Application of the nooLite system

Along with the solutions used in my apartment, I will show a few more examples of using this system.

1. Banal opportunity to place switch anywhere in the room: at the computer, bed, near the sofa or even on the window. No wiring needed. It is enough to purchase a power unit with a double power reserve and any remote control you like. More about it.

2. Through switch. most often used in corridors, where one switch is installed at the beginning of it, and the other at the end. The person who entered the corridor turns on the light with the first switch, and at the exit turns it off with the second switch. Have you calculated how many wires you need to lay in the wall? How about adding another switch?


One power block and two switches completely solve this problem. In the case of a completed repair, it will come out even cheaper than re-chasing the walls.

3. Use in wooden houses where there are special requirements for the installation of electrical wiring. For those who did not know, hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses is at least not recommended, and in the case of using corrugated PVC pipes, it is completely prohibited. In general, the standards for wooden structures are quite strict and those who adhere to the rules and fear for their lives will have to spend either on good hidden wiring in metal sleeves, or cover a beautiful tree with a 10 mm layer of plaster and lay the wiring under it. In the case of open wiring, the so-called “retro wiring” using stylized cable and ceramic insulators has recently gained popularity. The solution is beautiful, but far from the most practical, time-consuming and costly.

4. Wireless motion sensor for automatic lighting control. Of course, I would like to see more sensors in various form factors in the arsenal of Nootekhnika, but even what we have already allows us to automate the lighting in the apartment and save on electricity. The main advantage of the monitored sensor is the absence of wires. Typically, these devices are included in the break of the phase wire of the lamp and additionally require zero for power. Those. both installation and subsequent movement of the sensor is complicated in case of unsuccessful placement. More about it.

5. Light control from watch, computer and mobile devices located on the same local network. You can, of course, get tired and purchase a static IP address from the provider, forward a port to an Ethernet gateway and completely control lighting from anywhere in the world, but given the lack of feedback from the units of the nooLite system, the rationality of this solution, in my personal opinion, comes down to zero.

I'm afraid if I continue to describe all sorts of scenarios, I will go beyond the character limit set on the site for one article. More examples of using devices from Nootekhnika are on their website. And yet, I know that a similar control can be implemented on the Arduino or by assembling an independent device at all, so there is no need to write about it in the comments. It is better to calculate how long this will take you, and then multiply by the cost of one of your hours. Unless, of course, this is your hobby, but your wife, children or flatmates can put up with the lack of light due to the debugging work you are doing.

▌Operating experience or answers to some questions

I am far from the first to write about this system - there were a lot of materials on, in various author's blogs, and even on. But from article to article the same questions arise. Thank you, in fact, the company itself for a good tech. support and periodic updates on its official website. But even there, not everything is there, and some information is completely outdated, therefore, within the framework of the article, I will answer a few questions that interested me personally and my friends.
    • How convenient are touch switches? How to be in the dark? Is there any backlight?
      No, there is no backlight, in the dark you will have to navigate by touch. In the switches of the first revision, it was more convenient to do this, since the buttons could be felt at the corners of the frame. In the second version, I periodically miss the center key. As such, I don’t have pitch darkness at home, either a table lamp or a night light is always on, and given my favorite “creative mess”, with all my courage, I won’t risk moving around the apartment in the middle of the night without, for example, a smartphone. If desired, you can change the touch switches to returnable using remotes.
    • Is it possible to turn on the light with the toe of the left foot in warm socks?
      You can at least left, even right, but either in thin conductive socks, or without them at all. You can also use your nose, yes. I'm not joking, because such situations happen.
    • What happens if the lights are turned off in the apartment? Blocks will lose their binding? In what state will they be after the resumption of power supply?
      Nothing will happen. In the event of an emergency power outage, the blocks will not lose their binding, since all information is stored in non-volatile memory. If we talk about units of the SU series, supplied in a set, they do not have the function of storing the state in case of loss of the 220 V network. For other models, see the company's website.
    • Is it easy to hack into the system and gain control over the management of lights and electrical appliances?
      Easy enough, because the system has no serious protection. And if you have an open Wi-Fi network and you are using an Ethernet gateway with the first version of the software, then it will be enough for any “passer-by” to connect to this network and go to the standard gateway address 192.168.0.168. For radio control, only 16 bits of the address are used, so it will take a few hours to search through the possible 65536 combinations. There is also no protection of the proprietary protocol, the signal from the remote control is easy to “catch” and record. Habré even had an article about . The question is, who might need to "hack" the lighting control system in the average apartment or house? Except for some dirty schoolchildren, but they usually have other methods that are welcome.
    • How to predict when the batteries in the remotes run out? I wouldn't want to be left in the middle of the night with no way to turn on the light.
      I have already raised this question above in the text, but still I repeat, since it really often arises. As such, the remotes do not have a discharge indication, but as they approach the critical charge level, the indication LED will glow dimmer and dimmer when transmitting commands. This is an indicator that it is time to replace the batteries. If during this time you do not bother to replace the batteries, and you are not at home (as a person capable of replacing the battery in the remote control) or, in fact, CR2032 batteries, then yes, there will be no opportunity to turn the light on or off.

▌Results

If you have read this article to the end, then you are at least a hero, since I have not yet written such large materials. It is simply unrealistic to cover all the variety of a seemingly simple system like nooLite in one article, I’m afraid to imagine what will happen if I get some full-fledged smart home controller with a bunch of peripherals for review. Probably, it would be possible to divide the review into two parts, but then there would be even more text. From this material, I excluded the chapter on the operation of the system at the data transfer level and the preparation of the main components, but I will definitely write it later.

I can safely recommend the official website of "Nootechnics" as a comprehensive source of information for further study of the system. Almost every device has detailed manuals, videos and brief infographics. In the same place, on the site, the system and its individual components are collected, so there will be no traditional section “Related Links” at the end of the article.

As for the system itself, it not only deserves attention, it also costs its money. Hobby solutions based on Arduino and the like are still not plug & play devices and require painstaking installation and configuration, while advanced home automation systems based on Z-Wave or X10 protocols will cost a lot more.

What did you like
    • Basic system price (block switch)
    • Ease of installation and setup
    • System expandability
    • Management from mobile devices in the local network (especially from watches)
What did not like
    • No feedback, consoles and gateway are not synchronized in any way
    • The cost of the gateway and its functionality
What would you like
    • Any protection (data transfer protocol encryption)
    • Expanding the possibilities of scenario channels (the ability to turn the light on and off with one scenario button, double tap to assign additional functions)

▌Where to buy and how much?

In the Russian Federation, the set can be purchased at the Madrobots store. The cost of the minimum set discussed in the article is, and for almost 20 thousand will have to be paid.