Greetings, dear UAV lovers. Not so long ago, an FPV quadcopter was considered a rare and expensive exotic. Drones equipped with high-quality FPV equipment were not cheap and remained mainly the lot of professionals. Gradually, affordable aircraft appeared with cameras and transmitters that broadcast a video signal to the control panel.
The abbreviation FPV can now be seen on the boxes and cases of not only expensive, but also cheap copters. In this article, we will go into detail about what First Person View is.
Understanding what fpv is is not at all difficult. The abbreviation fpv (or First Person View) literally translates as "First Person View", and this very accurately conveys its essence. A camera mounted on board the aircraft captures a picture, the transmitter transmits a signal to a receiver (usually mounted on the controller), and then the image appears on the display. As a result, the pilot, while on the ground, gets the same view from the first person.
The standard set of FPV equipment consists of:
- cameras
- receiver
- transmitter
- Monitor
In low-cost fpv drones with a short flight range (up to 100-200 meters), transmitting a video signal to the remote control is nothing more than an entertaining function. With a small distance of the copter from the pilot, it makes no sense to further complicate the control. It is much easier to control the drone visually, without the use of a monitor or glasses. In addition, the cheaper the copter, the worse the quality of the built-in camera, transmitter and receiver. Often the picture is so fuzzy that it is impossible to use FPV.
In models of medium and high price categories capable of flying long distances (more than a kilometer), FPV control is transformed from an entertainment option into a must-have feature. It is difficult to control a copter located at a distance of several kilometers without any idea of what objects surround it.
Broadcasting video to the remote control allows real-time assessment of the environment. In addition, the FPV mode brings a completely different feeling to flying a drone. The pilot sees with his own eyes everything that enters the camera lens. In high-quality video glasses, there is a presence effect.
In professional FPV aircraft, hardware is often mandatory equipment.
FPV frequencies
In addition to the camera that captures the picture, the standard FPV kit includes a transmitter and receiver. These two modules are necessary in order to transmit a signal from the copter to the control panel, or to a monitor, virtual reality glasses, or a helmet.
Signal transmission occurs at certain frequencies. As a rule, this is 2.4 GHz or 5.8 GHz. There are also other frequencies:
- 900 MHz
- 1.2 GHz
- 1.3 GHz
However, they are not used in amateur drones. The main ones are 2.4 and 5.8 GHz.
The least commonly used analog frequency is 2.4 GHz. The reason lies in the low quality of the picture and a large amount of noise. Many devices operate at this frequency, and it is of little use for video transmission.
In budget copters, video broadcasting usually takes place on digital frequency 2.4GHz via WiFi connection. In low-cost drones, there is usually no separate display for displaying pictures. The video is transmitted to a smartphone connected to the remote control via a Wi-Fi access point. In addition, the Wi-Fi transmitter is inexpensive, and the resulting video quality is better compared to the analog 2.4 GHz FPV.
Analog frequency 5.8GHz is the best option for signal transmission. It provides sufficient bandwidth, and the pilot gets a clear picture. The minimum delay time allows you to use FPV even in racing. To view the video, you will need either a separate display connected to the receiver (or remote control), or glasses. The more powerful the transmitter installed on the drone, the greater the communication range will be. However, powerful transmitters are not cheap.
Broadcast to remote/phone
As a rule, in inexpensive radio-controlled models, the video signal enters the screen of a mobile device. This uses a Wi-Fi connection. It is much rarer to find consoles with a display. Usually control equipment entry level not equipped with external monitors.
The smartphone is attached to the remote control and connected to a Wi-Fi access point. You need to install on your mobile device special application(programs are released by manufacturers of copters). It is through the application interface that one can access FPV as well as additional settings and drone control.
In addition to the phone, the picture can be broadcast to an external monitor. Inexpensive displays are available for sale, connected to the remote control with a cable. Of course, the remote must be compatible with external monitors.
Interestingly, broadcasting video to a smartphone is used not only in inexpensive quadrocopters. The same DJI Phantom 3 PRO is equipped with a remote control without a display. True, data transmission in it is carried out using proprietary Lightbridge technology, devoid of many of the shortcomings of Wi-Fi technology.
In professional-level models, the video is transmitted to the monitor. Often it is not included in the package.
Broadcast to goggles/helmet
New models of quadcopters increasingly support streaming video to goggles and helmets. And if in budget UAVs this technology poorly implemented, then in high-price quads you can really feel the effect of being in the sky.
A drone with virtual reality glasses can be purchased for both $100 and $1000. Inexpensive models can be equipped with simple VR glasses, inside which a smartphone is inserted. In this case, the quality of the picture depends largely on the quality of the display and computing power mobile device.
It is unlikely that you will be able to experience all the delights of the augmented reality mode. Most likely, your eyes will quickly get tired, and the picture will be fuzzy. If power mobile processor is not enough, then instead of the landscapes of the surroundings you will get a mess of squares.
Much more fun and functionality can be offered by special VR glasses and helmets equipped with their own displays and processors for processing video images. For example, Fat Shark glasses can create a high-quality 3D picture.
It makes no sense to buy expensive external headset to watch video if a low-quality video module is installed on board the aircraft. As a rule, the standard camera is changed first, and then the VR headset is selected (or this is done at the same time).
Pros and cons of technology
Quality FPV communication is not a cheap pleasure. You will need a powerful transmitter good camera with gimbal, semi-professional control equipment, modern goggles or helmet. If the flight does not take place in an open field, but in a densely built-up area, then the signal may be transmitted with a delay, the picture quality deteriorates, and the image breaks up.
The inscription Fpv drone on a box with a quadcopter under $100 is nothing more than a marketing ploy. You will not get a high-quality first-person mode. In fact, and Broadcasting to the phone can be considered as the first stage of acquaintance with the technology. If you realize that you are interested in this, then in the future you will be able to choose equipment and a quadcopter based on your own requirements.
On the other hand, the pleasure of driving with FPV compensates for all expenses. Even if used inexpensive screen on the remote control, but the picture is of high quality, the pilot receives an overview of the area in real time. In good glasses, immersion in the process of flight can be maximum.
When flying over an area with a large number of natural or artificial objects, FPV will help you avoid collisions, make beautiful shots, and solve some professional problems. operator in live sees everything that is in front of the drone's camera, and can quickly correct its movement.
Some UAV manufacturers offer head tilt control. This is another unusual technology that is likely to be developed and improved.
How to choose?
A quadcopter with a camera and video broadcast can be quite inexpensive. We recommend that you refuse to buy very cheap models, since they will not be able to provide video broadcasting with acceptable quality.
In video reviews of inexpensive models, usually little time is devoted to FPV mode. Often, the authors simply indicate that it is, but do not give recommendations on how to evaluate and choose a drone. Try to still find a review that shows video from the on-board camera. If the picture can be considered clear, it does not look like jelly (the image seems to be floating) and does not break up into separate squares, then such a copter will be suitable as a contender for purchase.
In the case of cheap quads, it is easier to purchase FPV equipment separately than to use the complete one. Video quality and communication range improve in direct proportion to the cost of equipment. Large drones can easily be equipped with a transmitter and camera without compromising flight performance. Mini and micro UAVs often do not have the necessary lift. In general, the lighter the camera and transmitter, the easier it will be for the aircraft to handle the extra weight.
More expensive quads are usually equipped with good cameras with 3d or 2d gimbals. It is desirable (though not required) that the gimbal provides for the installation of GoPro cameras. Pay attention to the range of video communication. The best models provide stable video signal transmission at a distance of up to 4 km and more.
The flight radius and video transmission radius must be the same. Otherwise, a situation may arise when FPV stops working and you have to rely only on the GPS signal.
best fpv models
Choosing the best multicopter is hardly easy. In many ways, the answer to the question of which drone to choose depends on financial capabilities. The more expensive the UAV, the theoretically the best performance he possesses. But this does not mean that there are no worthy contenders among inexpensive models.
Inexpensive models
- Hubsan H107D
The picture from the 12 MP FPV camera is transmitted to the pilot's smartphone (Android and Android devices are supported). This is the first drone designed for selfies. Folding design, intelligent shooting modes, high-quality optics, 2-axis gimbal, obstacle avoidance system - this is not a complete list of its distinctive features.
- DJI Phantom 4
It's still in its own price segment. High-quality video module, 3-axis gimbal, many intelligent flight modes, hdmi port for external monitors and a VR headset provide good opportunities for controlling the drone in first-person mode. The price of the device is high (especially on the Advanced and Pro versions), but if you need a device in which everything works immediately and without problems, Phantom will be the right choice.
- GoPro Karma
Created as . You can install any version of Hero on it, starting from 4, and get a great picture. FPV mode works flawlessly, with video broadcast on the remote screen. The video signal can also be transmitted to a smartphone, for this you need to install the proprietary GoPro application (available for Android and iOS). By the way, the gimbal with the camera can be removed from the quadra body and installed on the complete monopod.
I completely described the assembly and configuration process and, and below there will be a slightly modified version containing more information from my previous articles.
I will leave out the question of entering this hobby and go directly to the quadcopter.
Quadcopter size selection
A year ago, size 250 quadcopters were the most popular. But now pilots prefer to collect devices smaller, which is very reasonable: the weight is less, but the power is the same. I chose size 180 not for any practical reasons, but as a kind of assembly challenge.
In fact, this approach to the choice is not entirely correct. It is much more reasonable to choose the size of the propellers first, and already under them - the smallest frame where the selected propellers will fit. And with this approach, the 180th format is generally rejected. Judge for yourself: the 210 format allows you to install the same 5-inch props as the 250, while the quad itself is lighter, and 4-inch props fit into the 160 frames. It turns out that the 180th size is such an intermediate format that is "neither ours nor yours." It can also be considered a weighted 160. But, nevertheless, I chose it. Perhaps because this is the minimum size that can more or less comfortably carry a GoPro or Runcam camera.
Accessories
Let's start with motors. The "intermediateness" of the 180th size, as well as the richness of their assortment, complicates the choice. On the one hand, you can take what goes to the 160s, on the other hand, what is installed on the 210s or even 250s. It is necessary to proceed from the propellers and the battery (the number of cans). I see no reason to use a 3S battery, but on propellers general rules are:
- you need maximum static thrust - increase the diameter of the propeller and decrease the pitch (within reasonable limits)
- need high speed- decrease the diameter and increase the pitch (within reasonable limits)
- you need high thrust with a small diameter - add the number of blades (again, within reasonable limits, since if the difference between two- and three-blade propellers is noticeable, then between three- and four-blade propellers is not so big)
In my case, I have a prop size limit of 4 inches, but no motor limit. So the 3-bladed 4045 bullnose propellers are the smartest thing to do. They are difficult to balance, but with them the control is more responsive and predictable, and the sound is quieter. On the other hand, with two-blade propellers, the speed of a quadrocopter is higher, but I definitely don’t need this. "In the people" on the 180 frames, the following setups prevail:
- lightweight with 1306-3100KV motors, regular 4045 propellers and 850mAh battery
- heavy and powerful for 3-blade bullnose propellers and action camera with 2205-2600KV motors and 1300mAh battery
In fact, the frame allows you to install motors from 1306-4000KV to 22XX-2700KV. By the way, I don’t know why, but 1806-2300KV motors are now in disgrace and are little used.
For my quadric motors I took - RCX H2205 2633KV. Firstly, I wanted to have a power reserve (although with my modest piloting skills, it is not clear why). Secondly, my setups have never turned out to be ultra-light, in addition, I also plan to carry an action camera. Specifically, RCX motors are a compromise option. They are cheap, but there are many complaints about the quality. At the time of purchasing the components, these were one of the few 2205-2600KV motors on the market. Now (at the time of this writing) the range is much larger and it is better to choose something else.
With the rest of the components, he acted on the principle of "more challenge":
Flight controller selection
You may have noticed that there is no flight controller in the list. I want to describe his choice in more detail. Inexpensive build kits often include a CC3D controller, so this is probably the cheapest PC right now. Today there is absolutely no point in buying CC3D. It is outdated and does not have such necessary things as battery control and "beeper". Its successor CC3D Revolution is a completely different product with rich features, but at a price of over 40€.
Modern flight controllers have already switched from F1 to F3 processors, which made the Naze32 a past generation PC and significantly reduced its price. Now this is a truly popular controller that has almost everything that the soul desires at a price of 12€.
Of the new generation PCs, Seriously Pro Racing F3 is the most popular, and first of all, due to the availability of inexpensive clones. The controller itself is in no way inferior to Naze32, in addition it has a fast F3 processor, a large amount of memory, three UART ports, a built-in inverter for S.Bus. It was SPRacingF3 Acro that I chose. The rest of modern PCs were not considered because of the price, or some specific features (closed firmware, layout, etc.)
Separately, I note the now fashionable trend to combine several boards into one. Most often PC and OSD or PC and PDB I do not support this idea with a couple of exceptions. I don't want to change the entire flight controller because of a burnt OSD. In addition, as practice shows, sometimes such a combination brings problems.
wiring diagram
It is clear that all components that need 5V or 12V power will receive it from the BECs of the power distribution board. The camera could theoretically be powered directly from a 4S battery, since the input voltage allows this, but in no case should this be done. First, all cameras are very susceptible to noise in the circuit from the regulators, which will be reflected in the noise in the picture. Secondly, regulators with active braking (such as my LittleBee), when this braking is activated, give a very serious impulse to the on-board network, which can burn the camera. Moreover, the presence of a pulse directly depends on the wear of the battery. The new ones do not have it, but the old ones do. Here is an educational video on the topic of interference from regulators and how to filter them. So it is better to power the camera either from the BEC or from the video transmitter.
Also, in order to improve the quality of the picture, it is recommended to run not only the signal wire, but also the “ground” from the camera to the OSD. If you twist these wires into a "pigtail", then the "ground" acts as a shield for the signal wire. True, in this case, I did not.
If we are already talking about "ground", then they often argue about whether it is necessary to connect the "ground" from the regulators to the PC or whether one signal wire is enough. On a normal racing quadcopter definitely needs to be connected. Its absence can lead to synchronization failures ( the confirmation).
The final wiring diagram turned out to be simple and concise, but with a couple of nuances:
- flight controller power supply (5V) from PDB via ESC outputs
- radio receiver power supply (5V) from PC via OI_1 connector
- video transmitter power supply (12V) from PDB
- camera power supply (5V) from the video transmitter
- OSD connected to UART2. Many people use UART1 for this, but like on Naze32, here this connector is in parallel with USB.
- Vbat is connected to the PC, not the OSD. In theory, the battery voltage reading (vbat) can be read on both the OSD and the PC by connecting the battery to either one or the other. What is the difference? In the first case, the readings will be present only on the screen of the monitor or glasses, and the PC will not know anything about them. In the second case, the PC can monitor the battery voltage, inform the pilot about it (for example, with a “beep”), and also transmit this data to the OSD, to the “black box” and via telemetry to the console. Adjusting the accuracy of readings is also easier through a PC. That is, connecting vbat to the flight controller is much more preferable.
Assembly
First, some general assembly tips:
- Carbon conducts current. So everything must be well insulated so that nothing closes to the frame anywhere.
- Anything that sticks out of the frame is more likely to be broken or torn off in a crash. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about connectors. Wires can also be cut with a screw, so they must be hidden.
- It is highly desirable to cover all boards with PLASTIK 71 insulating varnish after soldering, and in several layers. From my own experience I can say that applying a liquid varnish with a brush is much more convenient than covering with a spray.
- It will not be superfluous to drop a little hot glue on the places where the wires are soldered to the boards. This will protect the solder from vibrations.
- For all threaded connections, it is desirable to use "Loctite" medium fixation (blue).
The assembly I prefer to start with motors and regulators. good video on assembling a small quadcopter, from which I adopted the idea of \u200b\u200bthe arrangement of motor wires.
Separately, I would like to say about the fastening of regulators: where and with what? They can be fixed on the beam and under it. I chose the first option, because it seems to me that in this position the regulator is more secure (these are my conjectures, not confirmed by practice). In addition, when mounted on a beam, the regulator is perfectly cooled by air from the propeller. Now about how to fix the regulator. There are many ways, the most popular is double-sided tape + one or two ties. "Cheap and cheerful", besides, dismantling will not cause difficulties. Worse, with such a mount, you can damage the regulator board (if you put a coupler on it) or wires (if you mount it on them). So I decided to attach the regulators with heat shrink tubing (25mm) and soldered them together with the beams. There is one caveat: the regulator itself must also be in heat shrink (mine were sold in it), so as not to come into contact with the carbon beam, otherwise - a short circuit.
It also makes sense to stick a piece of double-sided tape on the bottom of each beam at the motor mount. Firstly, it will protect the motor bearing from dust. Secondly, if for some reason one of the bolts is unscrewed, it will not fall out during the flight and will not be lost.
When assembling the frame, I did not use a single bolt from the kit, since they are all indecently short. Instead, I bought a little longer and with a head for a Phillips screwdriver (there is such a personal preference).
The camera did not fit in width between the side plates of the frame. I slightly processed the edges of her board with a needle file (rather, I grinded off the roughness) and she got up without any problems. But the difficulties didn't end there. I really liked the quality of the camera holder from Diatone, but the camera with it did not fit in the frame in height (about 8-10mm). At first I attached the holder to the outer (upper) side of the plate through a neoprene damper, but the design turned out to be unreliable. Later came the idea of the most simple and reliable fastening. I took only the clamp from Diatone's mount and put it on a piece of rod with an M3 thread. To prevent the camera from moving sideways, I fixed the collar with nylon sleeves.
I really liked that from the connectors on the PC I had to solder only the connectors for the regulators. Full-fledged three-pin connectors did not fit in my height, I had to go for a trick and use two-pin ones. For the first five channels (4 for regulators + 1 "for every fireman"), I soldered the connectors to the signal pad and the "ground", for the remaining three - to the "plus" and "ground", so that I could power the PC itself and already from it - backlight. Considering that Chinese clones of flight controllers sin with unreliable fixation of the USB connector, I soldered it too. Another point characteristic of the SPRacingF3 clone is the tweeter connector. As in the case with vbat, on the top side of the board there is a two-pin JST-XH connector, and on the bottom it is duplicated with contact pads. The catch is that the clone has a constant ground on the connector and when using it, the tweeter will always be activated. The normal working ground for the "tweeter" is brought out only to the contact pad. This is easily checked by the tester: the "plus" of the connector is ringing with the "plus" on the contact pad, and the "minus" is not ringing. Therefore, it is necessary to solder the wires for the "tweeter" to the underside of the PC.
The three-pin connectors of the regulators also had to be replaced. It was possible to use four two-pin plugs, but instead, I took two four-pin plugs and inserted all the regulators into one “ground”, and the signal wire into the second (observing the order of connecting the motors).
The illuminated plate is wider than the frame and protrudes on the sides. The only place where the propellers won't knock it down is under the frame. I had to farm: I took long bolts, put on them nylon couplings with pre-cut slots (so that the ties that fasten the backlight could be fixed) and screwed them through the bottom plate into the frame racks. I pulled a plate with LEDs to the resulting legs with screeds (the holes in the plate fit perfectly) and filled the screeds with hot glue. Soldered the connectors on the back side of the plate.
After assembly, at the setup stage, it turned out that something was wrong with the squeaker. Immediately after connecting the battery, it began to beep monotonously, and if you activate it from the remote control, then this monotonous squeak was also superimposed by a rhythmic one. At first I sinned on the PC, but after measuring the voltage with a multimeter, it became clear exactly where the problem was. In fact, it was possible from the very beginning to connect an ordinary LED to the wires of the tweeter. As a result, I ordered several tweeters at once, listened to them and installed the loudest one.
Often the PDB and controller are attached to the frame with nylon bolts, but I do not trust their strength. So I used 20mm metal bolts and nylon sleeves. After installing the PDB, I soldered the power supply to the regulators (the rest of the wires were soldered in advance) and filled the solder points with hot glue. I fastened the main power wire to the battery with a tie to the frame so that it would not be torn out in the event of an accident.
I removed all connectors from the receiver with wire cutters, except for the necessary three, and soldered the jumper between the third and fourth channels directly on the board. As I wrote above, it would be wiser to take the receiver without connectors. I also deployed his antennas and melted into heat shrink. On the frame, the receiver fits nicely between the PBD and the C-pillar. With this arrangement, its indicators are clearly visible and there is access to the bind button.
I fastened the video transmitter with ties and hot glue to the top plate of the frame so that through the slot there was access to the channel switch button and LED indicators.
There is a special hole in the frame for attaching the video transmitter antenna. But do not connect it to the transmitter directly. It turns out a kind of lever, where the antenna serves as one shoulder, the transmitter itself with all the wires serves as the other, and the connector attachment point will be the fulcrum, which will have the maximum load. Thus, in the event of an accident, with almost 100% probability, the connector on the transmitter board will break off. Therefore, it is necessary to mount the antenna through some kind of adapter or extension cord.
I decided to solder connectors to MinimOSD, not wires directly. They write on the forums that this board often burns out, therefore it is reasonable to immediately prepare for a possible replacement. I took a bar with connectors in two rows, soldered the lower ones to the contact pads with holes, and brought vIn and vOut to the upper ones. After that, I filled the soldering points with hot glue and packed the entire board in heat shrink.
The final touch is a sticker with a phone number. It will give at least a little hope in case of loss of the quadrocopter.
This build has come to an end. It turned out compactly and at the same time access to all necessary controls is preserved. More photos can be viewed. The weight of the quadcopter without battery is 330g, with battery - 470g. And this is without an action camera and a mount for it. In the next article, I will talk about the firmware and configuration of the resulting quadcopter.
If you have ever been interested in drones or quadcopters, then you have come across the acronym FPV. FPV (First Person View) - first-person view as in computer games. Every day, prices for quadcopters are decreasing and FPV drones are becoming available even in the budget UAV segment.
Flying a drone with FPV, you can literally feel like a bird. That is why this trend is rapidly gaining popularity. Seeing this, manufacturers have increased the production of drones with the possibility of FPV flight. The first-person view gave a big boost to the popularity of drones. Every day the number of people who are already flying or just going is growing.
Prices for FPV drones start around $100. Such drones are mainly needed to familiarize yourself with FPV flights and understand which drone will be next. However, there are three different technologies FPV signal transmission: via Wi-Fi and at analog frequencies 5.8GHz and 2.4GHz. Let's look at them in detail.
What is FPV?
FPV in the field of drones is the broadcast of "real-time" video from the drone's camera to the monitor, glasses or helmet of the pilot. In other words, this technology allows you to see what the drone "sees" at the time of flight.
The drone is equipped with an antenna, a video transmitter and a camera. There are 3 in 1 builds used on micro drones like . The pilot has either a remote control with a monitor and a receiver, or goggles with a built-in receiver.
What is the use of this? First, to feel to some extent the freedom of flight. Secondly, FPV allows you to control the drone over long distances.
With FPV you can see exactly where in this moment the drone is located and you are guided by the surrounding area. After we figured out what FPV is, let's look at the three most popular ways to transfer a video stream.
FPV Types: Digital and Analog
As mentioned above, the transmission of a video stream over the air is implemented by means of a transmitter and receiver, which in turn can work in various bands radio frequencies - 900 MHz, 1.2 GHz, 1.3 GHz, 2.4 GHz, 5.8 GHz. In the amateur niche, the most commonly used bands are 2.4GHz and 5.8GHz. And the equipment used for data transmission can be of two types digital and analog. Each type has its pros and cons, but one is clearly better than the other. Let's take a look at each in turn.
Analog FPV at 2.4GHz
Of the options described in this article, the 2.4GHz analog band is the least popular. The reason lies in the low quality of the frequency for receiving the FPV signal. The video picture at this frequency is more prone to blur and noise. All because of the large number of devices that surround us and operate at a frequency of 2.4GHz. Starting from mobile devices connected via Wi-Fi and ending with microwave ovens. They are all sources of this frequency interference. Accordingly, in the city, flying in FPV mode at a frequency of 2.4 GHz will be problematic.
FPV over Wi-Fi at 2.4GHz (Digital)
The most popular technology through which FPV flight is implemented. It is installed mainly on budget drones. Almost every quadcopter under $100 will have FPV over Wi-Fi. The first reason for the popularity is a cheap Wi-Fi transmitter that is connected to the drone’s camera, the second is that there is no monitor in the package, its role will be played by a smartphone or tablet. In the case of analog equipment, the drone is equipped with an additional remote control with a monitor or glasses.
Therefore, FPV over Wi-Fi is the easiest and most convenient way to fly from the first person to date. After turning on the drone, you need to connect the gadget to a Wi-Fi point and go to the application. The disadvantages of digital technology are the signal transmission distance, limited Wi-Fi capabilities, a large number of interference sources in the 2.4GHz band and the biggest disadvantage is the image delay, the farther the drone is from the pilot, the greater the delay value, which subsequently nullifies the entire further flight from the first person. This method is relevant only for the first acquaintance with FPV and nothing more.
Analog FPV at 5.8GHz
FPV at 5.8GHz is the choice of professionals and amateurs. Pros. Good balance between throughput and range. The delay of the picture is so small that it is imperceptible to the human eye. It is currently one of the best ranges for FPV flying. By default, it is installed on racing drones, since the delay of the transmitted image is optimal for high-speed flights.
The only downside is the price. Due to the additional monitor or glasses, the price is noticeably higher. You will also have to pay extra for a powerful transmitter.
Conclusion
The result is:
- 2.4GHz FPV legacy technology, almost never used
- WiFi FPV new technology, inexpensive, but the picture is broadcast with a significant delay
- 5.8GHz FPV is the best of the three, the choice of professionals and amateurs.
- A wide viewing angle from 110 to 140 degrees allows you to take panoramic shots and take great photos. Camera connection high resolution will allow for high-quality video filming of commercial projects, corporate celebrations, etc.
- Ease of control, realistic flight.
- The ability to take photos in real time, shoot video and send it directly to your computer as an encoded stream.
- FPV DRONES are perfectly suited and meet the requirements of modern aerial photography, TV news shooting, film shooting and professional video shooting.
ARMAIR company - why can you trust us?
- We have been working on the device market for more than three years.
- Own staff of programmers and technical specialists (unmanned vehicle specialists).
- We work with more than 6 factories and research and design bureaus.
- The development of its own drone service network is underway.
FPV is quickly becoming one of the most popular and extraordinary sports around the world. FPV allows everyone to fly like a bird. For me, these are the most surreal sensations, causing a quick addiction.
In this article, we will look at what FPV is for multicopters, how to assemble an FPV system from simple to complex, how to choose hardware, and at the end we will provide useful tips.
What is FPV
FPV is short for First Person View(first-person view). In the world radio controlled models FPV basically means a way to control an unmanned vehicle with a video camera on board. Real-time video transmitted to the pilot of a multicopter (drone) allows you to control it out of sight.
Some FPV pilots compare it to playing computer games. This is true, the only difference is that you are flying a $300 quad that you have been building for a few days. The heightened level of attention makes this hobby intense and exciting. Whether you're flying a racing mini quadcopter or a slow aerial photography quadcopter, you won't be left indifferent.
Advantages of FPV
FPV flying is a more precise way to control your multicopter, especially if there are a lot of obstacles around that make it difficult to see the drone. In addition, the copter will be able to fly higher and much farther than without FPV.
Also, FPV makes the controls more realistic for the operator and allows a better feel for the equipment. And in total:
- More agile flying
- Precise control
- Flying higher and further
- More flying pleasure
Cheap FPV Choice
I highly recommend building your own multicopter and FPV system, which is the purpose of this article. But if you have absolutely no experience in electronics or no time, ready-to-fly quadcopters are produced. One of the more famous examples is the Hubsan H107D FPV Mini Quadcopter.
This is a complete FPV system, LCD screen and video receiver built into the radio transmitter. This is a relatively cheap way to get started with FPV flying and a good training platform.
How it works.
The technology of unmanned aerial vehicles continues to develop, all indicators of drones are rapidly improving and growing: reliability, safety, controllability, etc. Functions such as “return home”, “head tracking FPV systems”, “3D FPV goggles”, “obstacle avoidance”, “follow me function” and others are emerging.
The most common FPV system consists of the following parts:
- camera
- video transmitter (VTX)
- video receiver (VRX)
- video display
The camera is mounted in front of the multicopter, which gives the pilot the feeling of being inside the aircraft.
Live video is transmitted by a video transmitter over a radio channel, then received by a video receiver on the ground. After that, the video signal is displayed on the monitor or FPV goggles.
More complex systems may include GPS and various sensors to display various flight data on the screen using OSD modules.
fpv camera
FPV cameras are usually light and small for easy placement on drones. As with other cameras, you first need to look at the resolution. But there are other factors that influence the decision.
TVL - Resolution
TVL is a measure of camera resolution.
600TVL is standard resolution for an analog camera, this is usually sufficient for most people and monitors. You can fly with a camera with a lower resolution, such as 380 TV lines, but the picture will not be as clear. There are also cameras with a resolution of 800TVL and 1200TVL, but if your transmitter works in the PAL / NTSC standard, you will not see more than 700 TV lines (standard limitations).
Matrix type - CCD or CMOS
CCD and CMOS are two types of sensors inside cameras. CCD sensors are more expensive than CMOS, but better for the following reasons:
- less "jelly"
- great light sensitivity.
- wide dynamic range
- less noise
GoPro, Mobius, Runcam HD are all CMOS cameras and not ideal for FPV, although they do a great job of recording HD video. These cameras have an analog video output, but it has poor dynamic range and latency.
Video Format - NTSC / PAL
It's not really a problem whether the camera is PAL or NTSC, usually FPV equipment supports both.
The main difference is that PAL provides more resolution while NTSC offers more frames per second. Thus, if you need a better picture, then your choice is PAL. If you need to shoot a fast-paced scene, then NTSC will do the job better.
PAL: 720 x 576 @ 25fps
NTSC: 720 x 480 @ 30fps
Delay
The latency in the case of an FPV camera is important if you need to fly near obstacles or in the case of racing. The delay on the video camera leads to an increase in the reaction time of the pilot. Standalone analog camcorders offer significantly lower latency compared to HD camcorders such as GoPro or Mobius.
Video receiver and transmitter.
Video signal transmission is the basis of an FPV system. It determines how reliable the connection will be and how far you can fly without video signal interruption.
FPV frequencies
Before purchasing this special equipment, you need to understand what frequencies the video transmitters and receivers operate on.
Most commonly used frequencies:
- 900 Mhz
- 1.2ghz
- 1.3ghz
- 2.4ghz
- 5.8ghz
The lower the frequency, the greater the penetrating power, but the larger the geometric dimensions of the antenna. Also, not all FPV frequencies can be used legally, depending on local ordinances and laws.
At the moment, the most popular frequency is 5.8Ghz for the following reasons:
- legal in most countries
- small antenna
- cheapness
- widespread
- does not affect or slightly affects the frequency of 2.4Ghz
Each frequency has its own number of channels. For example, at a frequency of 5.8 Ghz - 32 channels. This allows pilots to choose different channels on joint flights. Thus, they can not interfere with each other.
Not all video transmitters and receivers can work on all channels, it depends on the specific brand. Make sure the video transmitter matches the receiver.
Video transmitter power.
You can see 25mW, 200mW, 600mW and even 1000mW (1W) video transmitters. More power means more range. But do not blindly purchase a transmitter with more power.
First, you should check the legality of using the selected FPV frequency and power in your country or region.
Second, increasing the range by increasing the transmitter power is not very effective. To double the range, the power must be quadrupled. Let's say if with a 200mW transmitter you get a range of 1 km, then to reach a range of 2 km. your transmitter should output 800mW.
I believe that it is not necessary to chase ultra-high power. Many install a 5.8 Ghz transmitter with a power of 250mW and control the mini quad at a distance of up to 1 km (with good antennas). Most do not need to fly further. However, 5.8 Ghz is not very suitable if there are objects between the pilot and the multicopter, such as trees and buildings.
Antenna for transmitter and receiver
When it comes to choosing an antenna, there are a few basic things to consider.
- Antenna polarization: circular or linear
- Antenna gain: directional or omnidirectional.
Typically, transmitters and receivers come with whip antennas, which are short range and easily interfered with. These are linearly polarized antennas. It is recommended to use circular polarized antennas to improve the performance of the FPV system.
Directional antennas have a longer range, but you need to keep the antenna pointed in the direction of the aircraft at all times. Otherwise, the signal reception quality deteriorates.
Antenna types
Exists big number antennas used in FPV. I will list the most popular and frequently used ones.
- Omnidirectional antenna- This is a stock whip antenna that comes with the transmitter and receiver. They have the same reception range in any direction, in addition, they are easy to make yourself.
- Clover Antennas These are circular polarized antennas, usually with low gain. The radiation pattern of these antennas is donut shaped. Less gain above and below the antenna, most in the horizontal direction.
- Spiral and patch antennas- These are directional antennas that have a greater range and penetration.
Antenna connector type - SMA and RP-SMA
When choosing antennas for the receiver and transmitter, make sure that the connectors on them are compatible.
FPV goggles and monitors
Many find it difficult what to choose - glasses or a monitor. FPV goggles are more expensive than monitors, so I bought a cheap 7″ to start with. LCD monitor. A year later I upgraded it to good FPV goggles.
I really enjoyed flying with the monitor. I could easily shift my gaze from the monitor to the quadcopter - this is especially useful when landing. But even more I liked flying in FPV goggles. I could see others more clearly and feel more in control. In addition, glasses are easier to carry and they do not light up in the sun at all.
In addition to the price, the choice is influenced by personal preferences. Some people enjoy the thrill of flying with goggles on, others may experience headaches or feel uncomfortable wearing them. Also, the level of your vision can affect the use of glasses.
If you are interested in glasses, it is best to take a sample from a friend before making a purchase.
If you decide to buy a monitor, pay attention to the following details:
- Correct video input: Make sure the monitor has an AV input.
- Input voltage: Make sure the monitor can be powered by 2S or 3S battery.
- Options A: Some monitors come with built-in recorders and receivers - this is quite useful.
- The size: I think 7″ is enough and convenient.
- Brightness and Backlight: this is important if you plan to fly under the sun. Although you can use a privacy shutter, there may still be a problem if the image is not bright enough.
- Blue screen: When the video signal is lost, some monitors show blue screen(or black). This is not suitable for FPV, you need a monitor that shows interference when the signal drops out. Since if the video signal is bad, you can still return the copter back.
OSD - display data on the screen
OSD is used to display information during flight on live FPV video. This is not a mandatory option, but to know information such as battery voltage, GPS coordinates, speed, altitude, etc. very useful.
Input voltage and voltage regulators.
You must be sure that your FPV equipment is powered by desired voltage. Most FPV equipment in this moment operates on 12V voltage. If your quadcopter is powered by a 3S LiPo (11.1V) battery, you can power the FPV system directly from the battery.
However, if the main battery is 4S or more, you can power your FPV equipment with a separate 3S lipo battery. Another option is to use a voltage regulator to step down, for example, from 4S 16.4V to 12V.
LC filter (power filter)
Motors generate a lot of noise in the power system of the aircraft. If the FPV system is powered by the main battery, interference may occur on the transmitter and camera, resulting in jumpy white bars on the video. This is especially noticeable if you step on the gas.
An LC filter (power filter) is used to reduce interference in the power supply. They are sold ready-made or you can assemble them yourself.
If you are using multiple cameras on the cameras on the quadcopter. For example, an FPV camera and a GoPro, you can use the video switch to display cameras in sequence on the monitor or FPV goggles using one of the channels on the radio transmitter.
This is especially useful for those who fly with an FPV camera but also want to periodically check what the HD camera is shooting.
Video frequency conversion!
Some FPV goggles have a built-in receiver that only supports 5.8Ghz. If you need 1.3Ghz or 2.4Ghz frequencies, you can make or purchase a conversion module.
Can I use my iPad, smartphone or other handheld FPV devices?
Sure you can! You can stream live video via wifi or use analog to digital video converter to display video on your mobile device.
Where to place my FPV components on the quadcopter?
Locate the transmitter antenna as far away from other antennas as possible, such as the receiver antenna or the GPS antenna.
What is jelly that I keep hearing about?
Jelly is an effect that occurs when the camera is exposed to vibrations from motors, propellers, or just a poorly tuned quadcopter.
You may not see the jelly when you fly over the FPV camera, but look how much vibration there is in the HD camera footage. CMOS cameras are more prone to vibration than CCD cameras due to differences in shutter operation.
What to do with the audio output of the FPV camera?
If you don't use it, just ignore it or cut it off.
How to learn to fly FPV?
Some first masterfully learned to control the copter visually, and then began to fly FPV. I think it's perfect different ways management.
Also, various simulators will help you quickly acquire basic control skills, reducing the cost of broken parts of the copter.
FPV equipment in Irkutsk can be purchased in our online store